On June 19, 1865, some 2,000 Union troops finally reached the westernmost Confederate state of Texas at Galveston Bay to spread the news—two years after the fact—that President Abraham Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclamation declared “all persons held as slaves” within the Confederacy “are, and henceforward shall be free.”

In the two hundred-some years that followed, Black families and friends gathered to honor that life-altering anniversary, known as Juneteenth, with traditions that harken back to the original 1865 celebration. The holiday was enshrined as an official federal holiday in 2021.

These observances are marked with plenty of food, colorful fashions and music intended to lure people to the dance floor. However, the signature of the holiday is its official beverage, Red Drink.

“There has to be some kind of communal drinking that’s happening,” says Nicole Taylor, the James Beard Award-nominated food writer and author of Watermelon & Red Birds: A Cookbook for Juneteenth and Black Celebrations.

“You may have your canned sodas, but typically, somebody has made something that’s being passed around,” Taylor shares. “And for many Black Americans, really Black people across the African diaspora, you see the Red Drink pop up.”

What Is Red Drink?

Red Drink, or Red Drank, can be a myriad of beverages. It can be made with hibiscus or red berries. Perhaps it’s a refreshing strawberry lemonade or a crisp and sweet red-colored soda. There might even be a delicious red fruit punch spiked with a bit of liquor.

Regardless of the ingredients, “Red Drink has always been a part of the Black diaspora tradition,” says Taylor. “Wherever the middle passage dropped us off, there’s evidence of the ritual of drinking a red drink.”

Historians claim that Red Drink’s famous color can be traced back to more than four centuries ago, when West Africans used ingredients like hibiscus flowers and cola nuts to create red teas that were served at ceremonies and special occasions. The red teas were also used for medicinal purposes.

Throughout the Transatlantic slave trade, hibiscus was transported to the Caribbean, the first port stop on the slave route, according to Smithsonian magazine. The plant thrived there and has since been used to create the popular red beverage sorrel. But the U.S. wasn’t so hospitable for hibiscus, so enslaved Black people adapted their Red Drink recipes, using the crops and plants that grew in the Mid-Atlantic and South.

In Adrian Miller’s 2014 book Soul Food, the James Beard Award-winning culinary historian notes that the first mentions of Red Drink in the U.S. was in the 1870s. At that time, Black Americans used red strawberries, sumac or tartaric acid to make a red-hued lemonade. Then, in the 1920s and 30s, more red-colored beverages began popping up with the creation of drinks like Kool-Aid and Big Red soda.

Nowadays, people use a variety of red-colored beverages to commemorate the Red Drink of the past and Black American history.

“It’s a toast and offering to our ancestors, advocates and leaders who made it possible for us to celebrate Juneteenth year after year,” says Deniseea Head, the mixologist and educator behind Chicken & Champagne.

While some people believe the drink’s red color symbolizes the bloodshed of the enslaved, Head says she created her signature Red Is a Flavor Juneteenth cocktail (featured below) to exemplify the “love, dominance and passion” Black Americans have displayed throughout history.

Taylor, on the other hand, says red is a “power color.”

“We do know that red is a color of royalty for many African tribes,” she says. “Some people say it’s a symbol of resilience. The liberation flag has red in it. So, red just pops up over and over again in the experience of Black people in America.”

More than just a refreshing sip, Red Drink offers Juneteenth celebrators a moment of joy and refreshing reflection. Regardless of how it’s made—though you should definitely consider Head’s Red Is a Flavor punch—Red Drink is a beverage that calls for people to cherish and cheer to all that’s been lost and gained throughout the Black American experience.

How to Make the Red Is a Flavor

Courtesy of Deniseea Head of Chicken & Champagne. Serves 10 to 12 guests.

This recipe can easily be multiplied for bigger crowds and can be tweaked to fit personal preferences. Feel free to adjust simple syrup if you prefer sweeter (or less sweet) cocktails. Red blends and Pinot Noir can also be swapped out for the white wine, and the watermelon cubes can be frozen and used in place of ice.

Instructions

Step 1

In a large pitcher or punch bowl combine defrosted strawberry mixer with simple syrup.

Step 2

Add both bottles of wine and cognac. Stir until color is consistent and ingredients are mixed.

Step 3

Add the cut fruit and chill the mixer for a minimum of 45 minutes (the longer, the better).

Step 4

To serve, place ice directly to each glass to prevent watering down the pitcher. Ladle the punch on top.

Our Coverage of Black Drinks History

• Explore Black culinary excellence on Juneteenth and beyond with these tips and traditions from top industry pros.
• Learn more about the tradition of sorrel and how to make it with this guide by food writer Korsha Wilson.
• In “How Black America Helped Define Cocktail Culture,” writer Shayna Conde speaks to Toni Tipton-Martin, James Beard Award-winning author and editor-in-chief for Cook’s Country, about the most influential contributions of Black Americans to the cocktail canon.
• Want to support Black-owned drinks businesses? Here’s a guide to the 10 best Black-owned distilleries.

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The post How Red Drink Became the Unofficial Beverage of Juneteenth appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

While both the piña colada and Painiller are tropical classics that feature rum, pineapple and coconut, the latter features dark rum, rather than light (although some piña coladas also feature dark rum or a mix of the two). More importantly, the Painkiller calls on orange juice, which leads the drink in a more citrusy direction, and is topped off with freshly grated nutmeg. 

 “The sweet citrus notes and spices set Painkillers apart from a regular piña colada,” says Panji Wisrawan, head mixologist at Pinstripe Bar, at Viceroy Bali. “The combination of orange juice and nutmeg adds layers of flavor to a Painkiller, ideal for those who prefer a more complex taste.”

The Painkiller was invented in the 1970s at the Soggy Dollar Bar, in the British Virgin Islands. The original concoction’s precise proportions are lost to time, but are said to have been two to four parts rum, four parts pineapple juice, one part cream of coconut and one part orange juice, with freshly grated Grenadian nutmeg on top. Named after the Noni fruit plant found in the South Pacific islands, which is known as a pain reliever, the rum cocktail is ubiquitous at beachside bars around the world, as well as bars channeling the vibe of a tropical escape.

“It’s a drink for the beach vacations from the disco era that can easily be a backyard crusher,” says Travis Gauvin, bar manager at Sur Lie, in Portland, Maine. “You’d be hard pressed to find a cocktail with such a calling card today for obvious reasons; you can’t sell, distribute or regard alcohol in a way that ‘kills your pain,’ or cures what ails you. But it’s also a cocktail that has transcended from a time when not many drinks became well-known and loved.” 

As of 2015, Soggy Dollar Bar had served four million Painkillers. Pusser’s Rum, a version of the high-proof “Navy Rum” issued to sailors earlier in the century, trademarked the cocktail in 1980, but of course, you can make it at home with any dark rum you like—as long as it brings rich spice notes to the party. 

But be warned: In 2011 Pusser’s Rum sent a cease-and-desist order to a New York City bar called Painkiller, which had to change its name because it didn’t make its Painkillers with Pusser’s. This triggered a bartenders boycott of Pusser’s. (Other trademarked cocktails include the Dark ‘n’ Stormy and the Sazerac, which mandate the use of certain name brand liquors in order to be represented with those names on a menu.) 

Rum Ratios and Technique

Recipes dating back to the 1970s call for anywhere between two to four ounces of rum, leaving a fair amount of room for home bartenders to experiment and choose the amount they like best. 

“The interesting part of a Painkiller is the discrepancy in the amount of rum,” says Gauvin. “Two to four ounces is quite the pendulum swing. But this is tiki we’re talking about, and the high-proof navy strength is offset with nearly an equal amount of tart and fresh pineapple juice, acidic and fruity orange juice and the mouthfeel of cream of coconut.”

Bartenders often like to use a blend of rums. At Brother Wolf, in Knoxville, Tennessee, owner Jessica King uses Plantation O.F.T.D. as the stronger, primary rum and then Appleton Estate 8 Year Reserve as a secondary rum. Gauvin likes an overproof rum—like Navy Strength, Smith & Cross or Pusser’s—since the cocktail needs “the right caramel, leather and spiced notes of the rum to really create a baking spice profile in the drink.”

The Painkiller is traditionally served in a hurricane glass over crushed ice. And you need to be thoughtful about your shake. 

“Because you’re pouring over crushed ice, it’s important not to over dilute the drink with a longer shake,” says Gauvin. “A nice, hard quick shake is enough here. Then strain over the ice.” 

Emphasis on the “hard.” If you like your Painkillers frothy, a vigorous shake is key. “Fresh pineapple juice and orange juice gets super frothy when shaken really well,” says Ben Lieppman, beverage director at RPM Restaurants. “The frothy top gives the cocktail a ton of texture as you drink it.”

Painkillers are wonderful frozen as well. To make a frozen Painkiller, simply throw all your ingredients into a blender with a cup and a half of ice. And don’t forget the umbrellas. 

Painkiller Variations to Try

Like many other modern classics, the Painkiller is great fun to riff on. Many people like to add lime juice to the cocktail to cut the sweetness, or even a bit of salt. 

Engracio Clemena, beverage manager at La Société in San Francisco, does a Filipino riff called Masaki at Masarap (which means “painful and delicious” in Tagalog), using a mix of Dr. Bird Navy Strength Pineapple Rum and Tanduay Double Rum, a Filipino spirit, plus some calamansi syrup. 

“It’s a vacation in a glass,” he says. “The combination of rum, pineapple and coconut is always a good time.”

While the Painkiller evokes powerful summer energy, it’s tweakable for all seasons. This pumpkin Painkiller plays off the warmth of spiced rum and uses a luscious pumpkin coconut cream. 

“Using different types of rum, like spiced or coconut-flavored rum, adds new layers of flavor,” says Sayora Khamidova of JIMMY in New York City. “Another creative variation is to replace the pineapple juice with other tropical fruits like mango or passion fruit.”

Painkiller riffs also work with some untraditional spirits. At Brother Wolf, King often substitutes an ounce of rum for a lower-proof amaro, such as Vecchio Amaro del Capo, finding that the “light, nutty digestivo” is a great complement to the coconut and citrus. “I also love to swap out the traditional nutmeg for some freshly grated cinnamon,” she says. 

Above all else, make sure your ingredients are high quality: “The mixers and garnish should be as fresh as possible: freshly squeezed orange juice, freshly pressed pineapple juice and grated nutmeg,” says King. She mixes her own cream of coconut out of Aroy-D coconut cream, gomme syrup and a pinch of salt. 

How to Make a Painkiller Cocktail

Adapted from Soggy Dollar Bar

Step 1

Add the rum, pineapple juice, orange juice and cream of coconut to a shaker and give it a quick hard shake.

Step 2

Strain over crushed ice into a Hurricane glass.

Step 3

Top with a pineapple wedge and grated nutmeg.

More Cocktail Coverage

• In “The Classic Mai Tai is a Rum Lover’s Dream,” learn how to make one of the most famous tropical cocktails in the world.
• Looking for the best aged rums? Wine Enthusiast Spirits Editor Kara Newman recommends seven bottles.
• “The Piña Colada Is Still the Perfect Escape” details the history of the tiki classic.
• Read our guide to the “12 Classic Cocktails Every Cocktail Lover Should Know” to up your drink-making game.
• Visit Wine Enthusiast’s Barware shop for all the tools you need to make drinks like a pro.

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The post If You Like Piña Coladas—Try Its Cousin, the Painkiller appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Khoury is one of a dozen winemakers in the West Bank. It is about 45 miles from Gaza, where war has been waging since the October 7, 2023 Hamas-led attack on Israel that left more than 1,200 Israelis and foreigners dead. A May report by the United Nations Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs puts the death toll in Gaza at 34,735 Palestinian fatalities.

Khoury and other winemakers have struggled to keep their businesses afloat in the aftermath.

Most wineries in Israel and Palestine were in mid-harvest when the attacks and counterstrikes began. Many harvest workers were called to military service, leaving grapes to rot.

“Can Palestine produce quality wine, even in these difficult circumstances?” Khoury asks. “I say, ‘yes.’ Most Palestinians will say ‘no.’ I am testing that on myself.”

Though Khoury lost his olive harvest last fall, he was one of the few winemakers in the area who completed his 2023 grape harvest. It happened mostly by chance.

Because he wanted to celebrate his father’s birthday on October 7—the day of the deadly attack—Khoury decided to pick his grapes on October 6.

There’s no telling if harvest will be possible this year or if it’s top of mind for locals, but Khoury hopes it will be permitted.

“Wine is taboo for the majority of the population here. [Winemakers] are not considered important,” Khoury says. “So, you start to question yourself—does this matter? Is it superficial?”

Why It Does Matter

Formerly an architect in Paris, Khoury is a poet at heart. Philokalia translates to “love of the beautiful, the good” and Khoury says he’s on a mission to find beauty through his wines.

Like any winemaker, his pursuit begins with terroir. It’s a popular word, “terroir,” which often gets muddled. At its core, terroir is the soil—a grounding source of place and history in a wine—giving it an identity. Where Khoury lives, terroir, identity and a sense of normalcy are precious commodities.

Khoury’s vines, the oldest of which are 110 years old, have both experienced hardship and healed over the years. He says they were crushed under boulders by the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) to make settlements and roads in the early 2000s and again in 2021. Despite the work, some of the vines grew around the boulders, enabling him to produce his first vintage in 2015.

“If you stick to it, you learn to find beauty in suffering,” Khoury says. “It becomes a guiding star and a source of hope. For me, the wine has to rise above the suffering.”

The winery sits about 3,000 feet above sea level, with the Mediterranean Sea to the west and the Dead Sea to the east, offering a large diurnal shift in temperatures. The well-drained soil is a mixture of clay and limestone. Khoury’s production is small, with 10,000 bottles total, a thousand of them dedicated to arak, a fragrant liqueur made from fermented grapes and aniseed. The vineyard is dry-farmed with no tilling, and the wines are made with minimal intervention, fining and filtering.

Among Philokalia Wines’ offerings is the 2022 Stubborn Saints, a chillable red with a pale ruby color and notes of wild strawberries, roses, hard candy, watermelon and herbs. Its low alcohol and light body make it an elegant summer sipper.

There’s also the 2021 Grapes of Wrath (a cult favorite among many wine lovers), an amber wine made with a blend of indigenous grapes aged in amphorae. With notes of honey, orange pith, honeysuckle, dried apricot, herbs and a distinct aroma of golden raisins warmed in ghee, this wine has a long finish and balanced structure.

Also in the mix: the 2021 Anima Syriana, the boldest of the lineup, with a medium ruby color, velvety mouthfeel and notes of blackberries, blueberries, bramble and maraschino cherries.

All are dry and benefit from decanting. The grapes are not revealed on the bottles, which contain a blend of old-vine native varieties. Khoury’s reasoning for keeping the grapes unknown is that he believes not enough research and wine history exists for the vinifera of his region. Until there is adequate literature on the grapes, Khoury believes in safeguarding the varietals to prevent them from being exploited for their exoticness.

“While the rest of the world enjoys sharing its viticultural heritage, I don’t know of anyone having theirs stolen so blatantly,” Khoury says.

Limited Supply and Increasing Demand

Though local wine consumption has declined substantially because of the war, with domestic sales plummeting over 60%, according to the Israeli Wine Producers Association (IWPA), demand for Middle Eastern wines has increased in the U.S.

Zachary Engel, the executive chef and owner of Galit, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Chicago, says people have become increasingly curious about wines from the region.

“The demand for a lot of our wines, specifically through Palestine and Lebanon, was a lot higher this year,” Engle says. “It seemed like people were not paying attention or really interested in a lot of these wines until the war started. I think that people were like, what can we do to be in solidarity with the Palestinians in Gaza? And I think that's a really nice sentiment.”

Engel is Jewish, and his business partner and wine list curator, Andrés Clavero, is part-Palestinian. Together, they have built a regionally-inspired menu of foods and wines from both Israel and Palestine, including Philokalia Wines’ Grapes of Wrath, Stubborn Saints and Red Bethlehem.

Those bottles are also on the list at Albi in Washington D.C., another Michelin-starred restaurant, and on retail shelves in Michigan, California, New York, Chicago and other U.S. cities.

“We’re seeing a boom,” says wine importer and distributor Jason Bajalia of Terra Sancta Trading Company. “Some of it is for fundraisers, for Gaza charity dinners. But that won’t exist once the war is over. At the same time, thousands of new people are being exposed to [Palestinian] wine.”

War may be a commoditizing factor in the popularization of wines from the region in the U.S., though Khoury and Bajalia both believe the wines can stand on their own accord, pointing to their quality and unique history. Case in point, Philokalia’s 2021 Grapes of Wrath won a gold medal at the San Francisco International Wine Competition in 2023.

The Future of Palestinian Wine

“Circumstances are what I’ve been given in life, so I deal with it,” Khoury says. “What happens tomorrow when things get back to a more normal?”

For now, Khoury is unsure when he can work on his vines. He will attempt to do so in the coming weeks, to check for mold and other diseases. If there is a military action in the area, he will be forced to retreat and let the grapes take their own course. But Khoury is cautiously realistic about this year’s harvest.

“I’m interested to produce one of the finest wines in the world but it’s a long-term game,” Khoury says. “We have to go one day at a time, really. We don’t know.”

Our War Zone Coverage

• In war-torn Ukraine, nightlife offers a fleeting escape, according to reporter Adam Robb. He spends a night out in Lviv, describing drinking gin and tonics to air raid sirens and more.
• Want to know more? Listen to Robb's update on our podcast, after a trip back to a bar show in Kyiv. He tells us about seeing a "level of empathy that no human being is normally pushed to experience.”
• In "Winemaking Tradition in Israel Runs Deep," Mike DeSimone offers a primer on the region's history and terroir.
• Learn how Winemaker Eddie Chami is changing the conversation around Lebanese wine culture, away from war.

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For decades, rosé—a k a “Hamptons Gatorade”—has been hyped as the go-to drink of summer. 

But as much as we love our blush-toned bottles and the various cocktails that they have spawned, we’ve all consumed our fair share of pink-hued wines. This season, we’re craving something different. That’s where chilled reds come in. 

Chillable red wines have soared in popularity over the past few years and the available options are becoming better and more sophisticated. There are a few reasons for this, ranging from changes in the environment as well as our evolving tastes.  

Gamay—“the ultimate chillable red grape,” says Wine Enthusiast Writer-at–Large Reggie Solomon—is experiencing a boom because the varietal can withstand some of the effects of climate change.  

“Gamay shines best in Beaujolais,” Solomon says. “As global warming raises fruit ripeness and alcohol levels, one can still retreat to Beaujolais for fun and alcohol restraint. Pop a bottle of Beaujolais in the refrigerator for 20 minutes, which brings out the acidity and freshness.” 

Meanwhile, the rise of higher acid, lower abv styles of wine has contributed to a wider breadth of excellent chillable reds. “Led by the natural wine movement, red wines have been getting lighter, brighter and more glug-worthy for years,” says Wine Enthusiast Writer-at-Large Christina Pickard, who reviews wines from Australia and notes that the country is now producing reds that are particularly well suited for chilling.  

“There’re examples of this wine style from all of the nation’s 65 wine regions,” Pickard adds. “Smallfry’s Cinsault from Barossa is a perfect example: Made from a lesser-known variety—and from a region famed for its rich, cellar-worthy reds—it boasts a cute label with a creative name and heaps of crunchy, juicy ‘smashability,’ as the Aussies might say.” 

These chilled reds are wonderful on their own, but they also excel in pairings, according to pros.  

Tonya Pitts, a Wine Enthusiast writer-at-large who reviews wines from Northern California, likes McMannis Pinot Noir, from Lodi. “The rich supple dark berry notes lend themselves to a slight chill,” she says. “Pair the wine with barbecued chicken or meats from the grill—a delicious match with summertime fun.”  

Pitts also likes the “fresh, crushable and chewy red fruits” of Tizona by Bokisch Bechtold Vineyard’s Cinsault. “With a slight chill, it’s a wonderful sipper on a warm day,” she says. “More substantial than a rosé, it’s fantastic on its own or with assorted meats and cheeses. 
 

But really, these bottles are wonderful at any time of day or year. This is why we’ve rounded up the best chillable reds from around the globe in our buying guide below.  Take a peek.  

Georges Duboeuf 2023 Nouveau (Beaujolais-Villages)

This wine will bring a smile to your face as you taste the first-released, French vintage of 2023. Fresh black plum and strawberry dance on the nose along with pitted red cherry and macerated red raspberry. Produced in a semicarbonic style, the wine is youthful, juicy and lively. 91 points. — Reggie Solomon

$16.99 Plum Market

Stéphane Aviron 2021 Vieilles Vignes (Moulin-à-Vent)

This wine has a nose of black tea, pencil shavings, black cherry, peanut brittle, black plum and hay with a handful of dried field herbs. Firm acidity on the midpalate rides under tart black fruit and lifts the wine. This palate-cleansing wine would benefit from pairing with fattier dishes. 90 points. — R.S.

$24.94 Saratoga Wine

Johannes Zillinger 2022 JZ Velue 2.0 Zweigelt (Niederösterreich)

Fresh-tasting, this wine has a fruity profile displaying raspberry, violet and cassis notes. With a slight chill this would be a blockbuster at a party. 89 points. — Aleks Zecevic

$25.99 Wine.com

Straka 2020 Greenschist Blaufränkisch (Burgenland)

This bottling is an enticing red, with corduroy-like tannins and mouthwatering acidity constructing the frame. The core starts off with juniper notes leading the way to wild cherry and damson plum fruit. The long, iron-edged finish presents a firm conclusion to the experience. 91 points. — A.Z.

$23.00 Wine Monger

Nic Rager 2022 Pinot Noir (Vin de France)

The nose offers aromas of rose petals and a hint of dried herb. Flavors of plum, strawberry and vanilla lead the generous fruity finish, and firm, medium tannins shape the palate. 89 points. —Jacy Topps

$9.99 Empire WIne

Maison Ventenac 2020 Paul Cabernet Franc (Vin de France)

The nose is loaded with black fruit and vanilla, followed on a palate robust with raspberry and black currant, subtle spice notes and supple tannins. 89 points. —J.T.

$24.98 Martin's

Tizona by Bokisch 2022 Bechtold Vineyard- Cinsaut Cinsaut (Lodi)

This wine is fresh, crunchy and chewy. Baked red plum, black cherry and raspberry interweave with strawberry, orange zest, cinnamon, brown sugar, chicory, bittersweet chocolate and fresh coffee. It has a dry finish. 90 points. — Tonya Pitts

$39.00 Bokisch Vineyard

Smallfry 2023 Starry Starry Night Cinsault (Barossa)

A vibrant just-squeezed cranberry juicy color, this is full of whole bunch crunch (think: fistfuls of savory herbs and white peppery spices alongside brambly red fruit still on its stems) from aroma to palate. Lightweight and smudged with skins-y tannins, it veers a touch funky at the finish, but is overall a juicy, porch-pounding number to knock back slightly chilled. 90 points. — Christina Pickard

$30.00 Marigold Wines

Lost Sierra Wine Co. 2022 Singletrack Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

Candied raspberry and dried cherry aromas waft from the glass of this wine. The palate shows a ton of fresh berry character with salted caramel and fried shiitake mushroom flavors that linger long after the first sip is gone. This wine is light on its feet and feels minimal, but with enough tannin for aging and enough acid for balance. 92 points.— Tom Capo

$40.00 Lost Sierra Wine Co.

McManis 2022 Pinot Noir (Lodi)

This wine is rich, concentrated and complex with blue and black fruits. The elegant texture is fresh, offering ripe strawberries, blackberries, persimmons and orange zest intertwined with dried herbs, cloves, dried roses and a long finish. Pair with chicken, fish and hearty dishes. 92 points. — T.P.

$14.00 McMannis Family Vineyards

Planeta 2022 Frappato (Vittoria Frappato)

Hibiscus tea, freeze-dried strawberry, wild cherries, warm bricks and candied orange peel on the nose meet a subtle earthiness. On the palate, a squeeze of orange and a sprinkle of salt underscore both the sweetness and the astringency of the fruit, while tannins and acid sit back and relax. 92 points. — Danielle Callegari

$21.99 Wine.com

Our Chilled Wine Coverage

• To better understand which red varietals lend themselves to chilling and why, read through “A Guide to Chillable Red Wine.” 
• Beaujolais is one of the great easy drinking wines. In “There’s More than One Way to Beaujolais,” discover what makes it so wonderful. 
• In “Golden State Gamay Is Here to Stay,” Wine Enthusiast Writer-at-Large Matt Kettmann explores how California producers are turning to the varietal because of climate change. 
• Master the art of finding the perfect temperature for your warm-weather bottles through “The Do’s and Don’ts of Chilling Wine.” 
• Bringing your chilled bottle outside? Consider one of Wine Enthusiast’s break-resistant glasses. 
• Looking to keep your bottles at their precise peak temperature? The right wine cooler will do that for you. 

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“Cannabis is very nuanced and complicated,” says Derek Gilman, managing director of Ganjier. The Ganjier program, in short, is the weed world’s answer to the sommelier—industry experts who’ve gone through training to guide consumers in finding the right herb for them.

“The inspiration behind creating and developing the systematic assessment protocol (SAP) comes from different epicurean-based industries,” explains Gilman, pointing toward the Court of Master Sommeliers, the Ciceron Certification Program and, of course, the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET). “We looked at these programs and tried to find where the similarities are in cannabis.”

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The SAP scale assesses appearance, aroma, flavor and experience in order to determine the quality of cannabis and is specific to inhalables—whether flower or concentrates.

It’s the “experience” portion that greatly differs from any kind of wine assessment. “We break up the experience between mental and physical,” explains Gilman. “Within those two areas we break it down further to identify if the experience was stimulating, relaxing or balanced between the two. Or was there some kind of negative effect? For example, anxiety, headaches or sore throat.” Beyond mental and physical, Ganjiers also assess onset—how long does it take before one begins to feel those effects—as well as the intensity and longevity of those effects.

The Ganjiers doing the scoring are folks who have gone through the education system—in which the final exam does, indeed, include a “tasting portion.” Importantly, they all assess products in their local markets, since shipping cannabis across state lines is still not allowed.

In terms of final scores, they range much like Wine Enthusiast’s very own 100-point scale—the closer to 100, the higher the recommendation from the industry pros. Anything below a 75 is “not recommended.” Scores can be accessed via an app and, Gilman says, are frequently utilized by Ganjiers in all sectors of the weed industry—from retail to distribution and even the farmers themselves to see how their crop fares amongst the growing competition.

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Next in the works: “There’s a potential for vintages with cannabis concentrates, traditional hashish,” says Gilman, explaining that, over time, the expression of cannabis flower can actually evolve—sometimes for the better. “This is an area that’s gaining more traction.” And for Californians, the Department of Food and Agriculture is now looking into the effects of terroir and appellation on different flowers. So, your next roll might just have the equivalent of an AVA designation on the package.

This article originally appeared in the June/July 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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Though established in 1983, the AVA’s boundaries were redrawn in 2013 as other adjacent AVAs were established: The Upper Mississippi Valley AVA (established in 2009) ultimately replaced the Ohio River Valley as the largest AVA in the U.S., making it the second largest.

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Its vast size makes for a great diversity of soils and unique mix of climates, from humid subtropical influences to cooler continental areas, allowing for a wide range of grapes to be grown within its borders. Both hybrids and common vinifera varieties are grown: Prominent hybrid varieties include Marechal Foch, Baco Noir, Seyval Blanc and Vidal; vinifera that thrive well include Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Riesling. Wines are produced in a range of styles, and the region is particularly known for high quality late harvest and ice wines.

Mark Zdobinski is one of the owners, as well as the winemaker and production manager, at Olde Schoolhouse Vineyard & Winery in Eaton, Ohio, which produces a staggering 35 different wines, utilizing grapes from its estate vineyard as well as fruit purchased from both the East and West Coasts. He champions the diversity on offer for his customers. Sweet wines are very popular, he says; however, Zdobinski also produces 13 dry wines and a number of semisweet expressions. His portfolio also includes contrasting Cabernet Francs—one made with Washington State fruit and one with Ohio fruit, so customers can experience the difference in terroir in side-by-side tastings.

Donna Clark, co-owner of Old Mason Winery & Vineyard Inc., in West Milton, Ohio, echoes this focus on diversity. “We have approximately nine acres of vineyard planted,” Clark says. “We try to produce wine that will please all palates.” Old Mason’s vineyards are planted with cold-hardy grape varieties, including La Crescent, Marquette, Frontenac, Frontenac Gris, Cayuga and Petite Pearl.

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The Ohio River Valley is not without its viticultural challenges. The spotted lantern fly has come to the region from Pennsylvania. The invasive pest is known for devastating vineyards by spreading vine maladies such as Pierce’s Disease. Furthermore, many vineyards are adjacent to large, conventionally farmed agricultural businesses (often for corn or beans), and chemical overspray can be an issue. The state’s Department of Agriculture, as well as various industry organizations, have struggled to come up with possible solutions.

Despite these challenges, this is a wine region that is growing. Clark and her team have plans to expand the Old Mason vineyard, and there are many pending new wineries. Zdobinski emphasizes the local industry’s commitment to enhancing the region’s reputation, commenting, “I want to put a new benchmark in Ohio [and] show people that Ohio can make good wine. We stand for quality here.”

Quick Facts

• Date AVA Established: September 7, 1983; further amended in 1987 and 2013
• Total Size: 24,900 square miles (15.9 million acres)
• Most Planted Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Seyval Blanc, Vidal, Zinfandel
• Climate: Warm, humid-subtropical in southern regions; cool continental in northern regions
• Number of Wineries: 13
• Fun Fact: The Ohio River Valley AVA is often considered the birthplace of American viticulture, with Nicholas Longworth planting grapes in the early 1800s

This article originally appeared in the June/July 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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The archetype of the pretentious, joyless wine aficionado may flash on our screens for a few moments as a throwaway joke or atmospheric detail. Such was the case with the new Netflix series The Gentlemen, when a mysterious millionaire insists upon having his $40,000-a-bottle wine cartoonishly double decanted (a method experts told us “isn’t necessary at all”).

Or the wine snob might take a more central narrative role. Consider the 2004 film Sideways, which follows Paul Giamatti’s oenophile character, Miles, on a roadtrip through Santa Ynez Valley wine country as he incessantly denigrates Merlot.

“If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving,” he says—a sentiment that, following the film’s success, impacted actual Merlot sales in the United States. And yet for all the wine knowledge Miles flaunts, and despite his real-world impact on wine trends, he is not an aspirational figure.

“Sometimes it feels like the more someone is an expert in wine, the less we like them,” says Devin Parr, founder of The Vinter Project.

Ironically, Miles is less of a connoisseur than his strong opinions may have led viewers to believe. The 1961 Chateau Cheval Blanc from St. Emilion that Miles had been saving for a special occasion and wound up drinking at a fast food restaurant is, in fact, a Merlot blend—making him not just insufferable, but also a hypocrite.

As a creative device, the wine-snob archetype is reliable comedically, because it exposes the pretension—and, at times, emptiness—of an industry that many people feel excludes them. Characters portrayed as wine snobs are often vaguely villainous, while people who appreciate beer or cocktails seem approachable and fun.

“Think about the oenophiles in the media,” says Mike Ringland, a Philadelphia-based sommelier. “Hannibal Lecter loved a nice Chianti. Christian Grey loved a Pouilly-Fumé. These are all characters that, while brilliant or successful, are portrayed [in] a certain unhinged way. It’s as though if you’re deeply into wine, you’re smart, but in a psychotic way.”

Ringland points out that James Bond’s love of martinis only makes him cooler. What’s the big difference?

“James Bond would never order white Burgundy by producer or village or cru,” he says. “Doing so wouldn’t make him seem sleek and cool—he would be perceived as stuffy and nerdy.”

Wine became “stuffy,” Ringland suspects, in part because of all the formalities associated with wine service that, while beneficial for a guest (presenting the bottle, inquiring about decanting preferences and temperature), it makes “people’s eyes start rolling, as if it’s a big joke.”
“The perception of drinking wine to American consumers often carries this irony: ‘Oh look, I’m being fancy!’” Ringland says.

He often recalls a scene from the 1990 film Opportunity Knocks, in which Dana Carvey, a con man pretending to be a sommelier, is at dinner and a stuffy French waiter presents him with the wine menu. Carvey’s character selects a wine, and the waiter leans in and says, “Excuse me, but that is the address of the wine distributor.” The French waiter is seen as uptight for knowing about wine, and Carvey is the relatable common man for thinking it’s all nonsense.

Many wine professionals, however, feel that the caricature of wine lovers reinforces the exclusion that many regular wine-drinkers feel. These are people who can’t afford the Central Coast wine road trip or the $40,000 bottle, or who fear making a wine-ordering faux pas at a fancy restaurant.

For his part, Ringland feels his job is most important when he’s helping people on a budget find the perfect wine for their meal: “Out of a 1500-bottle selection list, I know exactly what $62 bottle you’ll never forget.” But his approach to engaging with consumers hasn’t always been the norm.

“For decades, many—but not all—wine professionals have approached guests with the same boilerplate, high-level wine dialogue that usually lacks meaning to the average consumer, alienating them in the process,” says Sam Bogue, beverage director at Flour + Water Hospitality Group. “There are some incredibly talented wine professionals who have perfected the craft of adapting the language they use in each setting to more warmly incorporate their guests into the conversation, but for a long time, this has been the outlier.”

And that’s what makes the caricature so entertaining—it flips the power dynamic, mocking the type of expert that makes more casual wine drinkers feel inadequate. “The trope has become so ubiquitous in our pop culture because many people will have interacted with this exact style of behavior at some point in their lives,” says Bogue.

Interestingly, the wine snob stereotype may disincentivize people from learning more about wine.

“Unfortunately, the fear of being obnoxious can stop anyone from trying to learn or talk about wine,” says Bernadette James, the in-house sommelier at Stages at One Washington and The Living Room in Dover, New Hampshire. “What actually makes a wine snob is intention. A wine lover simply enjoys talking about wine, while a wine snob loves proving how much they think they know about wine.”

Set on a girls trip to Napa Valley, the 2019 film Wine Country offered a refreshing, often joyful break from the cinematic tradition of conflating wine lovers with wine snobs. At a tasting on a Napa vineyard, where a friend group of middle-aged women are celebrating a 40th birthday, a male employee tries to tell them which notes they should be picking up on, and a character says flatly, “I don’t wanna learn about wine on this trip.”

Of course, that’s another extreme—committing to ignorance—but the depiction at least gets closer to what people actually love about wine: being with friends, enjoying the taste, having a joyful experience.

“The world of wine can be so unapproachable, that we’ve forgotten what wine is actually about: connection and pleasure,” says James. “If we can all approach wine with intention, with pleasure, with humanity, then wine snobs and the fear of being one disappear."

Bogue sees the prevalence of the wine snob shrinking, in part due to wine tech, which has allowed “for more democratization of wine notes and the tasting process.”

The natural wine movement has also had an impact. “It seemed to be in direct opposition to wine snobbery when it first started to invade the wine zeitgeist of America back in the 2010s,” he says. “Natural wine presented itself as playful, more affordable and less tied to tradition, meaning you didn't need to know a ton to break into it. Ultimately, it's fun style made it less ‘fussy.’”

Few things, however, can stay unfussy forever. The natural wine snob has since garnered a reputation for intimidating casual drinkers with their insistence on the supremacy of “barnyard” wines.

“It does seem that we've come full circle,” says Bogues. “Natural wine can feel just as pretentious—if not more—as conventional wine. So the cycle continues.”

Our Coverage of Wine Snobs

• In "‘The Gentlemen’ Features an Unusual Decanting Method. Is It Any Good?" contributor Maria Yagoda examines whether double-decanting fine Burgundy holds up.
• Is natural wine exclusionary? Some industry pros want to expand the meaning.
• If you want to avoid coming across as a wine snob, avoid these red flags.
• Wine is frequently used throughout HBO’s Succession, not only to signal power, but to skewer characters. Tom Wambsgans is basically a walking wine metaphor.

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“How often do you get to see wine regions and the whole economic engine of an industry happen right before your very eyes?” asks T. Scott Stephens, a sommelier and co-owner of Beckett’s Table, in Phoenix. He’s served fine wine for his whole career, but only became wise to Arizona wine a little over a decade ago after drinking wines from Sand Reckoner Vineyards made by co-owners Rob Hammelman and Sarah Fox.  

“If this quality of wine is being made by this lovely couple, who else is doing it?” thought Stephens, who now sells a significant share of Arizona wine. “It created this journey that continues to today.” 

Arizona’s accelerated evolution is due to a unique combination of factors. There’s the rockstar attention brought by Tool frontman Maynard James Keenan, who started his Arizona brand Caduceus nearly 20 years ago. Then came the rise of an educational backbone at Yavapai College’s Southwest Wine Center, which is pumping out expertly trained winemakers every year.  

Underlying the entire Arizona wine culture, too, is a proud spirit of experimentation. It continues to empower winemakers to explore—and rather quickly determine—which grapes are truly suited to the state’s stark landscapes. 

“We have an opportunity to tell a new story,” says Pavle Milic, who opened Scottsdale’s FnB Restaurant nearly 15 years ago and more recently launched Los Milics Vineyards. “What’s liberating is that we don’t have to follow any trends or any rules.”   

The state is broken up into three American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), and these appellations also serve as the primary places to taste wine in Arizona. The historic heart of Arizona wine is just south of Tucson in the Sonoita AVA, which sits at nearly 5,000 feet in elevation and is between four mountain ranges.  

Over an hour to the northeast is the Willcox AVA, where most of Arizona’s grapes grow on a high plain at about 4,000 feet. Then a two-hour drive north of Phoenix is the Verde Valley, where more than two dozen tasting rooms continue to toast the AVA’s 2021 approval.   

What follows are suggestions on which tasting rooms and estate wineries to visit in each of these regions. You can’t go wrong with any of them since they all offer uniquely personal service.  

“You still experience the human side of winemaking in Arizona,” says Milic. “You actually get the chance to meet the people involved in the craft, not just people working in the tasting room. Arizona is still young enough that that experience is still possible.” 

Sonoita

Sonoita is the historic heart of Arizona wine. Soil expert Gordon Dutt, who came to Arizona from U.C. Davis in the 1970s, encouraged the state’s first commercial vineyards to be planted on the region’s windswept grasslands.  

In 1984, Sonoita became one of the earliest approved AVAs in the United States—just three years after Napa Valley, which was the first. With elevations around 5,000 feet, it’s one of the higher appellations in the country, framed by the peaks of the Santa Rita, Huachuca and Whetstone mountains. 

Callaghan Vineyards 

Kent Callaghan is considered the pioneer of modern Arizona winemaking, having first planted vines with his parents near the town of Elgin in 1990. Callaghan Vineyards has since been served in the White House four separate times.  

“Though not classically trained, this gentleman has been making wines through trial and error and now has over 30 vintages under his belt,” says FnB Restaurant’s Pavle Milic. “No one has a better perspective on the lay of the land of Arizona wine.” 

Milic loves the white blend called Lisa’s, which usually includes Marsanne, Roussanne and Malvasia Bianca. “It’s an aromatic empress,” says Milic. “Every time I smell this wine, it reminds me of Arizona.”

For a red, try a bottle of Waverley’s, a blend of Grenache and Petit Manseng, a white grape. “He uses Petit Manseng in the same way we would add a little salt and lemon to soup, to give it a little lift,” says Milic. “It amplifies the mouthfeel.” 

Rune Wines 

This off-the-grid winery is the work of Arizona native James Callahan, who made wine in Washington State, New Zealand and California before returning home in 2012 to launch Rune Wines the following year.  

“This is one of our favorite places to visit,” says Emily Rieve and Lindsey Schoenemann, who own GenuWine Arizona, a wine bar and bottle shop in Phoenix. “The atmosphere is breathtaking, especially with the tasting room overlooking the vineyards. What makes it especially memorable is the owner/winemaker James and his wife, Anna—they are the heart and soul of Rune. The wines are exceptional and if you're lucky, James will take one out of his library to pour.” 

Stephens is also a fan. “It’s among the rewarding sunset views of Sonoita’s undulating vineyards and whispering tall grasses,” he says. “James Callahan’s use of wild yeast fermentation is reflective of taking only what nature gives and letting it blossom in the bottle.” 

Dos Cabezas WineWorks 

Both Stephens and Milic give much credit to Todd and Kelly Bostock of Dos Cabezas for pushing the state’s wine forward. “They have been the driving force of what Arizona wine could be,” says Stephens. 

Milic recommends two sparkling wines—one in a can, the other made in a solera-style—as well as the El Campo Red. “El Campo is a field blend of everything that they planted in the Pronghorn Vineyard, all picked together at the same time,” says Milic, who’s poured the wine at FnB for many years. “It’s special because it reflects this little chunk of land.” 

Plus, there are good eats. “Todd and Kelly imported a wood-burning oven from Italy, so they make badass pizza,” says Milic, adding that they often showcase appetizers made with indigenous ingredients, like tepary bean hummus. “They’re mindful of provenance.” 

Los Milics 

Milic was working the floor of his FnB Restaurant in Old Town Scottsdale when guests asked him to describe his winemaking dream. Then they offered to help fund such a project. So, at the end of 2018, Milic moved to the Sonoita area and began building Los Milics Vineyards. 

Serving 14 wines from 17 different grapes grown on 70 acres of estate vineyards, the tasting room is set amidst what Milic calls a “cavalcade of monoliths” that rise from the desert floor. Nine one-bedroom casitas just opened as an overnight option, and there’s a small restaurant on the way as well.  

“This jewel of southern Arizona encompasses amazing architectural design bound with a passionate respect to nature,” says Stephens. “The vast viewing window looking outside of the tasting room reveals the Mustang Mountains. At every corner, with a glass of Arizona in hand, visitors may feel a calming sense to simply exhale.” 

Queen of Cups 

More winemakers are heading closer to the Mexican border to expand the Sonoita terroir. Among them are Lily Christopher and Emmett Rahn-Oakes, the young couple behind Queen of Cups. Their low-intervention wines are made with grapes including Picpoul Blanc, Barbera, Viognier, Malbec and more. 

“Emmett and Lily are part of the new wave of generational wine makers staking their claim in southern Arizona,” says Stephens. “An easy 20-minute drive from Sonoita lands you in the quaint hamlet of Patagonia, where their convivial respite showcases wines of restraint, balance and minimal intervention.” 

Verde Valley

Even though less than 200 acres of grapes are grown in the appellation, the Verde Valley is jam-packed with tasting rooms in the small towns of Cottonwood, Clarkdale, Jerome and Cornville. That’s due to its proximity to Phoenix, which is about a 90-minute drive away.  

“This area is booming because it’s a quicker and cooler wine getaway for the millions of people in that exploding city,” comment Jeanne and Pete Snell, who own Tucson’s Arizona Wine Collective in Tucson, which has become known as a chamber of commerce for the state’s wines.  

“We have watched it change and, especially, grow over the last seven years. In addition to having had more than 40 wineries featured in our place over the years, we are privy to what the consumers are saying about and being drawn to these days.”   

Caduceus Winery & Merkin Vineyards  

You can’t talk Arizona wine without giving credit to Maynard James Keenan, who achieved fame and fortune as the frontman to the rock bands Tool, A Perfect Circle and Puscifer before founding his winery 20 years ago.  

First based in Jerome—which is still home to a tasting room—his Caduceus Winery and Merkin Vineyards grew into multiple brands and tasting rooms as well as five small Verde Valley vineyards and one big one in the Willcox AVA.  

“He’s done so much taking his bravado and stardom and using it as an absolute facilitator for Arizona wine,” says T. Scott Stephens. “He’s just as giving and sharing as the next guy.” 

Most significantly, Keenan recently opened a brand new, hilltop facility on the former site of the Masonic Lodges in downtown Cottonwood. “It’s an amazing accomplishment and now a must-see destination for food and wine lovers to experience his nod to his Italian heritage,” says Stephens. “The panoramic view via the hilltop tram with a gelato in hand is unforgettable.” 

Southwest Wine Center Tasting Room 

With a 13-acre vineyard and a teaching winery with an emphasis on sustainability, Yavapai College’s Southwest Wine Center, in Clarkdale, offers a two-year degree in enology and viticulture. “They’re churning out winemakers,” says Stephens. 

It’s an interesting place to explore the cutting edge of Arizona wine. “You can taste the efforts of the students,” says Milic. “It gives people the opportunity to see the academic side of it.” 

Chateau Tumbleweed 

Founded in 2011 by two couples who were already working in the Arizona wine industry, Chateau Tumbleweed sources from at least a dozen vineyards across the state each vintage to produce a range of blends and single-vineyard, single-variety wines.  

“They are down-to-earth, great people,” says Rieve from GenuWine Arizona, whose inventory and menu reflects that state’s entire wine culture. “What makes Arizona wines so special are the people behind the wines. The owners and winemakers are so involved every step of the way and are usually running the tasting rooms as well. It just feels like family and we love supporting Arizona wines.” 

She likes Tumbleweed’s Mourvèdre. “The labels are fun and the tasting room feels like you're home,” says Rieve. “It's so welcoming.”  

Milic appreciates how the Tumbleweed team makes wine easy to like for all types of people. “They drop the whole cloak of pedantic vernacular when it comes to tasting,” he said. “They’re approachable. They make it fun. They are people who don’t take themselves that seriously and guests respond to that. They also happen to make delicious wine.” 

Page Springs Cellars 

Ever since planting his first creekside vineyard in 2004 north of Cornville, Eric Glomski made stewardship of the surrounding environment a key component of the mission for Page Springs Cellars, which partners with Friends of the Verde River, among other nonprofits. A visit can simply focus on tasting wine and enjoying food from the on-site bistro, or guests could take a tour of the cellar, the estate, or the nearby House Mountain Vineyard. 

“Eric has carved an indelible path along Oak Creek,” said Stephens. “His wines are nurtured and crafted by hand, expressing a sense of place. You can experience multiple wine tastings inside, or take the adventure outside with a picnic, or nestle up to the deck with the perpetual flow of rippling water below.” 

Willcox 

In 2016, the Willcox AVA became the state’s second appellation, a well-deserved recognition since the region grows about 75% of Arizona’s wine grapes, including much of what’s being poured in Sonoita and Verde Valley. As the Snells of Arizona Wine Collective explained, “Folks are drinking Willcox wine no matter where they taste Arizona wine.” 

The flat, desolate landscape sprawls across a farming area known as the Kansas Settlement. The tasting rooms range from casual estate experiences that are spread out across the landscape to more urbane offerings often found in the small town of Willcox.  

Golden Rule Vineyards 

The Snells recommend Golden Rule Vineyards, which just opened a new tasting room in “a cool historical building in the town of Willcox,” they point out. The winery, which grows 11 varieties on 26 acres at its estate vineyard, is now in what was originally the Chevrolet building, a landmark built in 1946.  

Those wishing to see the vines can schedule an appointment to taste at the estate, which is on the northern end of the Dragoon Mountains. “They also grow some of the best pistachios you’ll ever have,” the Snells say. 

Rhumb Line Vineyard 

As someone who’s walked vineyards all around the world, T. Scott Stephens is always impressed by the meticulous care he witnessed at Rhumb Line, which owners Todd Myers and Michelle Minta named after a nautical term.  

“It’s like you could eat off the floor,” says Stephens, of the property, which also grows olives and lavender. Though Rhumb Line sells all of its fruit, the property offers lodging in Quonset huts and farm-fresh cuisine at the recently opened Olive’s Vineyard Cafe, making it an ideal home base for exploring the nearby tasting rooms of Pillsbury Wine Company & Vineyard and Bodega Pierce.   

Four Tails Vineyards & 1764 Vineyards 

A little further south, but still in the Willcox AVA, is a growing area around the town of Pearce. “The drive out there provides an excellent view of this region on the edge of the Chiricahua National Monument,” says Jeanne Snell, who recommends hiking there.  

“We are getting some outstanding wines from this area from Four Tails Vineyards and 1764 Vineyards,” she says. “Neither have official tasting rooms but host customers by appointment.” 

More Southwest Wine Coverage: 

• Rock Star Maynard James Keenan's latest splashy project aims to amplify Arizona wine. 
• The Southwest is one of the United States’s unsung wine regions. Get to know the landscape in “Exploring the Diverse, Terroir-Driven Wines of the American Southwest.” 
• Texas has one of the fastest-growing wine scenes around. Our editors rounded up the best wineries in Texas to visit. 
• Six new AVAs are on the horizon for Texas, suggesting the possibility of more definition and visibility that, for many Texas winemakers, feels overdue. 
• The Camp Verde Pecan and Wine Festival, which takes place an hour outside of Phoenix, is a food festival that deserves attention from wine lovers. 
  

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A washed-rind cheese is one brushed with brine or alcohol, which fosters the growth of Brevibacterium linens. The bacterium, which is usually also added to the wash, gives these cheeses their signature stink. (Fun fact: It’s the same bacteria responsible for foot odor.) It also delivers sticky red, pink or orange rinds and a gooey interior. But while the aromas and flavor profiles of washed-rind cheeses may be yeasty, sulfuric, meaty or barnyardy, most smell more pungent than they taste.

The process of washing cheese with brine dates to at least the 7th century, when Alsatian monks created Munster, a creamy, notoriously aromatic cow’s milk cheese with a vibrant orange rind. In the Middle Ages, Belgian Trappist monks also began making washed-rind cheeses, often using beer or brandy to bathe the wheels. The tradition of washing cheeses with alcohol has continued over the centuries and remains a popular practice today, particularly in Europe and the U.S.

While washing cheeses was likely an early form of preservation, it also encourages the growth of beneficial microbes while keeping harmful microorganisms at bay. Washing with alcohol instead of brine has the added benefit of imbuing a cheese with flavor and added complexity.

“For our North Fork Whiskey Washed Munster, bathing the cheese with the spirit encourages unique fruity and floral esters to develop on the rind, along with the color enhancement brought on by the specific alcohol,” says Alise Sjostrom, founder and cheesemaker of Redhead Creamery in Brooten, Minnesota. “The whiskey is also local to us, so it provides a sense of central Minnesota terroir and collaboration with a great company.”

Incorporating alcohol into the curds themselves or wrapping booze-soaked leaves around a cheese before aging similarly transfers aromatics and flavor to the final product. But the motivation for doing so may also be practical. That’s the case for cheesemaker Pat Morford of Rivers Edge Chevre in Logsden, Oregon, which has received widespread acclaim for Up in Smoke, a fresh ball of farmstead goat’s milk cheese wrapped in smoked maple leaves that have been spritzed with bourbon.

“While the spirit does add some flavor and fragrance, it’s mostly to make the leaves pliable,” says Morford.

Of course, the best way to learn about booze-soaked cheese is to eat them. The following cheeses are some of America’s finest alcohol-washed offerings, all available to be shipped to your door.

Beer-Washed Cheese

While Chimay is perhaps the planet’s best-known beer-washed cheese (from the abbey and brewery in Chimay, Belgium), many American cheesemakers have adopted the practice.

Alemar Cheese Company in Mankato, Minnesota, produces Good Thunder, a squidgy adaptation of Reblochon (an AOC cow’s milk cheese from the French Alps), made from 100%-grassfed pasteurized cow’s milk. After the cheese is washed in Nacht Rider Schwarzbier from Minneapolis’s Arbeiter Brewing Company, it’s aged for six to eight weeks. The resulting russet-hued square is rich and gooey, with a bold, meaty umami profile.

Missouri’s Baetje Farms does its own version of Reblochon, using pasteurized milk from their herd of goats as well as that of nearby farms. Washed Vallée is brushed with Whiskey Barrel Stout from Kansas City, Missouri’s Boulevard Brewing Co, yielding a semi-soft cheese with tantalizing notes of bacon and sweet cream with a hint of caramelized onion.

Cider-Washed Cheese

New York City’s Murray’s Cheese has acted as affineur for dozens of cheesemakers over the past 20 years, aging some of the nation’s most formidable collaborations in the shop’s four on-site caves. (The shop offers a cave-themed class, and for the more ambitious, a cave intern program.)

Greensward, from Vermont’s Jasper Hill Farm, is but one notable example. Inspired by Switzerland’s AOC Vacherin Mont d’Or, this cow’s milk beauty is washed with Michigan’s Virtue Cider, wrapped in spruce bark and aged for six weeks. Greensward’s luscious, satiny paste is redolent of bacon, browned onions and a whiff of the Vermont woods.

Less hedonistic but no less enjoyable is Hop Along from Northern California’s venerable Cowgirl Creamery. Made from pasteurized organic cow’s milk washed with French cider, this appealing semi-firm snacker is aged for 45 days, yielding aromas of apples and freshly baked bread. (Cowgirl Creamery sells it as part of its California Coast collection, but you can also order a five-pound block from FoodServiceDirect. Local shops near you may also carry it.)

Wine-Washed Cheese

Pairing cheese with wine might be a no-brainer, but some cheesemakers also use fermented grape juice or pomace to wash their wheels.

Affineur Sergio Moro of Veneto’s Latteria and Caseficio Moro makes Ubriaco al Prosecco, a semi-firm cow’s milk cheese that spends two months immersed in Prosecco before aging for at least six months. Creamy, floral and delicate, each bite is imbued with the essence of golden apple and pear.

Meanwhile, Rogue Creamery, out of Central Point, Oregon, soaks its award-winning Bluehorn Blue in biodynamic Syrah from nearby Troon Vineyard, lending each cave-aged wheel vibrant berry and plum notes, plus a rosy hue.

Whiskey-Washed Cheese

Sjostrom’s riff on traditional French Munster (not to be confused with American Muenster, a processed semi-soft cheese) is North Fork Whiskey-Washed Munster, a dense little cylinder made with cow’s milk from her family’s dairy. After washing the cheese with Minnesota 14 Whiskey from nearby Panther Distillery, Sjostrom ages each batch for eight weeks to develop a delectable creamy paste with a hint of toasted oak and salami.

For a delightful upgrade on fresh goat cheese, try the previously mentioned Up in Smoke. Morford was inspired to create a product that was representative of both and her farm. She smokes maple leaves gathered from the property with alder chips (also collected on-site) and sprays the leaves with bourbon before wrapping each subtly smoky, tangy ball of cheese.

Brandy-Washed Cheese

Rogue River Blue is another highly decorated cow’s milk cheese from Rogue Creamery; each wheel is wrapped in biodynamically grown Syrah leaves from Troon Vineyard that have been soaked in pear brandy from Oregon’s Clear Creek Distillery. The cheese is aged from nine to 11 months and released on the autumnal equinox. It’s a dense, fudgy wheel with notes of umami, spice, caramel, vanilla and fig. It’s certainly one of the world’s great cheeses, improved only by a glass of Port or an earthy Syrah.

If you’re seeking something truly stinky, Époisses (Ay-PWOSS), with its buttery, oozy paste and tacky orange rind, is one of the most glorious cheeses to come out of France. This PDO pasteurized cow’s milk offering from Burgundy is washed with locally made Marc de Bourgogne and aged for a minimum of six weeks before being packaged in its signature wooden box. The traditional way to eat Époisses is to cut a hole in the top of the cheese and spoon out the runny ivory paste.

There are hundreds, if not thousands, of washed-rind cheeses from all over the world and cheesemakers are always innovating—experimenting with everything from sake and absinthe to rice whiskey. We suggest nabbing a slice whenever you see one; just be mindful to limit tastings or cheeseboards to three or four selections to avoid palate fatigue. But the best way to discover new favorites? Don’t fear the funk.

More Stories About Cheese

• Wine can be infused into cheese in a variety of ways, from marinades to infusions. Sara Pepitone examines wine cheese and how it pairs with wine.
• What are the top cheese shops in America? Writer-at-Large Emily Saladino highlights the most iconic.
• Celebrate the U.S.A. with these all-American cheese and wine pairings laid out by Hannah Howard.
• Lastly, present those cheese like a pro with this guide to building the perfect cheese board.

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