“By the bottle, it might be the best seller in our tasting room,” says Donnachadh Family Wines owner Drew Duncan, who became an early adopter when he planted own-rooted Gamay on his Sta. Rita Hills vineyard in 2016. “People don’t realize it’s just what they’re looking for until they taste it—and then the light goes on. People seem delighted by the balance, how the fruit, spice, earth and acid all come together in such an effortless way.”

You May Also Like: Grapes That Wish They Were Pinot Noir

Ernst Storm makes Gamay from that property, as well as Presqu’ile Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley, the latter of which was his first stab at the grape in 2019. “It is not as serious as Pinot Noir, so inexperienced wine drinkers tend to not be intimidated by it,” says Storm. He serves his Gamay slightly chilled as a bridge between whites and reds at his Storm Wines tasting room in Los Olivos. “They like the fact that it is more fun and approachable, easy to understand but with a lot of depth.”

In Santa Cruz, Cole Thomas of Madson Wines uses his Gamay as a “vin de soif,” aka a thirst-quencher. He started with two barrels in 2021, opting for a whole-cluster, herb-forward but bright-fruit style. “Whole-cluster Gamay doesn’t need years in the cellar to be interesting,” he says. “Our consumers are interested in lighter reds that they can bring to a BBQ or serve chilled as an afternoon aperitif.”

You May Also Like: How Beaujolais Nouveau Won (And Lost) Generations of U.S. Drinkers

Scott Caraccioli of Caraccioli Cellars, meanwhile, is finding a lot more depth to the grape, which he grafted into his family’s Escolle Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands four years ago. He’d been drinking a lot of Beaujolais and wanted to see it through a California lens. “I was not anticipating the density and complexity it would pull from the granite,” says Caraccioli of his property’s soils.

For a learning experience in his Carmel tasting room, he pours the Gamay right before the Syrah. “The geologic influence on both the Gamay and Syrah make that transition decipherable from a site perspective,” explains Caraccioli, whose customers became immediate fans. “It’s an incredibly giving wine, so it’s rewarding to see the smile after the first sip.”

Gamay can show a darker side as well. Before becoming general manager of her family’s Pellegrini Wine Company at Olivet Lane Vineyard in the Russian River Valley, Alexia Pellegrini imported wines for Beaujolais producer Maison Jean Loron, which taught her how Gamay can be handled in different ways. Finding any Gamay to buy in Sonoma was tough at first. She and her team located a stable vineyard in the Knights Valley and planted their own in 2021 and soon after grafted over 500 more vines. Then they decided to make a denser version.

“Though Gamay is typically one-half step lighter on the spectrum, our utilization of submerged cap vessels throughout fermentation leads to a richer profile,” says Pellegrini, who pours her Gamay after their Pinots in the tasting room.

That style helps with challenging pairings, says Pellegrini’s winemaker Charlie Fauroat, who likes it with savory-sweet Chinese roasted meats and tomato-based Indian curries. “While it is deep, brooding, blue fruited and bold, it also presents with soft rounded tannin structure, has the potential for remarkable aromatic prettiness and intensity,” he says. “I love what an outlier Gamay can be.”

You May Also Like: As Climate Change Drives Up Temperatures, Winemakers Climb Higher

There’s another reason Gamay may find its way to your glass for years to come. “Climate change is a big reason I believe Gamay is here to stay,” says Chris Pittenger, co-owner and winemaker of Gros Ventre Cellars, which produces Gamay from Santa Barbara to the Sierra Foothills. “Many areas that used to be prime for Pinot Noir are simply not ideal today or won’t be in the next 20 years. Gamay has a thicker skin and can handle warmer temperatures while keeping its natural acidity.”

Replanting is already happening in these warmer spots, and there’s more Gamay on the market every year. “I believe we are in the first inning of a great baseball game,” says Pittenger. “I look forward to watching the Gamay game play out in California, Oregon and beyond.”

From the Shop

Find Your Wine a Home

Our selection of white wine glasses is the best way to enjoy the wine’s subtle aromas and bright flavors.

Shop All Wine Glasses

The post Golden State Gamay Is Here to Stay appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Carignan 

Pinot-like Characteristics: Fine-grained tannic texture, bright red-fruits, earthy tones and a lively acidity 

Unlike Pinot Noir, Carignan thrives under the heat o’ the sun. This late budding, late ripening variety finds its home in regions like Languedoc-Roussillon, Rioja (where it’s called Mazuela) and Priorat (Mazuelo). The grape is naturally high in acid and tannins, which in the past made it a tough solo-sipper but a perfect blending component.  

But high-quality, single-varietal expressions are possible and often produced when yields are significantly reduced—something that happens naturally as the vine ages. Look for old-vine expressions from places like California’s Mendocino and Lodi AVAs and Chile’s Maule D.O., where the typically rustic red yields a more friendly, fine-grained tannic texture, bright red-fruits, earthy tones and a lively acidity. 

Cinsault 

Pinot-like Characteristics: Soft tannins, juicy fruitiness 

Native to the south of France, Cinsault is a heat-loving, drought-tolerant variety. Typically high-yielding with big bunches and large berries, these wines are at their best when those yields are limited: soft tannins and a modest—but juicy—acidity with red fruits and floral aromatics. Like Carignan, Cinsault is a traditional blending component and, similarly, some of the finest single-varietal examples are those from old vines, where not just yields but berry size is naturally limited, thus providing increased aroma and flavor concentration. Find single-varietal expressions produced from the old vines of Lodi, California; Itata, Chile; and several South African regions including Paarl, Breedekloof and Malmesbury. 

Frappato 

Pinot-like Characteristics: High acid, delicate tannins, fresh red fruit and florals 

This delicately thin-skinned Sicilian red, with its vibrantly fresh fruits, floral notes and elegant acidity, is almost an all-too-perfect replacement for a light-bodied, commercial expression of Pinot Noir. You’ll typically find this wine blended, most commonly with its fellow Sicilians Nero d’Avola and Nerello Mascalese (see below), but single-varietal expressions can be found by notable producers such as Planeta, Cos and Gurrieri. With its lightness and brightness, Frappato can also span into the chillable red category, making it enjoyable all year round. 

Gamay Noir 

Pinot-like Characteristics: Expresses a sense of place 

Gamay Noir also calls Burgundy its motherland. Interestingly the first written mention of the grape, by Duc Philippe le Hardi in 1395, called for a ban on this “very bad and disloyal variety.” Though there are still significant plantings within the region, its reputation for quality is far below that of its parent Gamay. But it has become a star player in the Rhône department, particularly in Beaujolais. 

Gamay is a natural cross of Pinot Noir and the white grape Gouais Blanc—so it should come as no surprise that it shares many qualities with the former: It is a thin-skinned, early budding, early-ripening variety. And, like Gamay, it is a product of its environment. Look for a Beaujolais or Beaujolais Village bottle for a simple, cheerful, red-fruit-meets-candy expression with light tannins and typically little to no oak. For more depth and complexity, source from one of the 10 crus, where good sun exposure and warm, well-drained granitic soils yield more flavor concentration and firmer tannins—all balanced by the grape’s innate high acidity. Winemakers at this level will typically include some oak-aging and the best can indeed age like a fine Burgundy. 

Grenache 

Pinot-like Characteristics: Red fruits and delicate tannins 

Grenache, or Garnacha in Spain, is found as a single-varietal and as part of blends all around the world. It thrives in warm to hot regions—which is a bit of a trick when it comes to viticulture, as the grapes can accumulate high levels of sugar (read: high potential alcohol) and drop significant acid quickly toward the end of the growing season. But picked at the peak of ripeness, the grape can display the same bright, red-fruited profile as Pinot Noir and, with its thin skin, provide a similar tannin profile. It will never have the same acidity level as Pinot, but some producers will utilize whole cluster fermentation, which will impart a generous juiciness and vibrancy to the fruits. Grenache also often has a unique white pepper-like quality that provides dual dried floral and spice notes—so like Pinot… with a kick. 

Mencia 

Pinot-like Characteristics: Fine tannins, generous acidity, minerality 

Mencia is quite a distinct variety with plantings predominantly found in Spain’s Bierzo region and in Portugal’s Dāo. Its profile is marked by a combination of red and black fruits, but with noticeable spice and strong floral aromas. It is also a grape—much like Pinot Noir—that is able to exude a sense of place, often through a gravelly, stoney minerality. Though the grape has fairly thick skin, many expressions offer fine tannins. That, along with a generous acidity, makes this a fun experiment for any Pinot-thusiast.  

Nerello Mascalese 

Pinot-like Characteristics: Red fruits, florals, herbaceous-earthiness, modest alcohol 

This is the heart and soul of Sicily’s Etna DOC, where the high altitude (soaring up to 1,000 feet in elevation) provides the late-ripening variety with the extended growing season it requires. Though typically found in blends, legally, Etna Rossa must contain at least 80% Nerello Mascalese.  

Similar to Pinot Noir, Nerello can produce wines with pronounced aromas and flavors of red cherry, strawberry, roses and violets, plus an underlying herbaceous-earthy note. Its innate high acidity and modest alcohol make it structurally comparable, too. Though the grape is known for potentially high tannins, many producers will use limited skin contact to avoid over-extraction. 

For a more concentrated expression, look out for Etna Rossa DOC Riserva, a category that mandates a minimum of four years of aging, including at least one year in barrel.  

Trousseau 

Pinot-like Characteristics: Soft tannic texture, generous acidity with delicate red fruits and a forest floor-mushroom quality 

Though native to France’s Jura region, it makes up but a small percentage of plantings, trailing even that of Pinot Noir. Perhaps because it proves to be even more finicky, requiring significant warmth, specific soils and ample sun exposure—yet is quite vigorous and thus needs attentive canopy management, which can be tricky on the sloped terroir of the Jura. 

Outside its native region, Trousseau has found a home in Northern California. There are both old vines scattered amongst the “mixed black” vineyards of Sonoma’s Russian River Valley as well as newer plantings in Lake County and Mendocino. Typical single-varietal bottlings will express a soft tannic texture, generous acidity and a medium body with a modest intensity of red fruits along with a forest floor-mushroom quality, similar to a Pinot Noir with age, complete with a faded ruby-garnet hue. 

Nebbiolo 

Pinot-like Characteristics: Earth-meets-floral aromas and flavors with the finest examples showing capacity for long aging 

High in acid, tannins and alcohol—doesn’t sound much like Pinot Noir, does it? But with its pale ruby-garnet hue and pronounced aromas and flavors of violet, rose, red cherry and red plum, this wine often gets mistaken for Pinot Noir. For a less robust expression, you may want to steer away from the more rustic elegance of Barolo or Barbaresco. Turn to Langhe Nebbiolo DOC or Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC for wines made intentionally for early drinking. Less time on the skins means a lighter tannic touch, and aging in neutral vessels highlights the grape’s innate fruit and floral primary characteristic. Added bonus: These DOCs are a bit more wallet friendly.  

Schiava 

Pinot-like Characteristics: Pale hue, light-bodied, low tannins 

Schiava actually refers to a group of four different varieties—Schiava Gentile, Schiava Grigia, Schiava Grossa and Schiava Lombarda. Plantings of all four are predominantly found in northeastern Italy, namely Trentino Alto-Adige, where varieties are blended together to produce bottled Schiava. The resulting wines are typically a pale-hued ruby color with aromas and flavors of violet, rose petal, strawberry and raspberry. Structurally, these are light-bodied, low-tannin wines, although in the Santa Magdalena DOC, Schiava can be blended with up to 15% of the deeper, darker Lagrein, resulting in a more full-bodied expression. 

A version of this article originally appeared in the April 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

From the Shop

Find Your Wine a Home

Our selection of red wine glasses is the best way to enjoy the wine’s subtle aromas and bright flavors.

Shop All Wine Glasses

Bring the World of Wine to Your Doorstep

Subscribe to Wine Enthusiast Magazine now and get 1 year for $70 $29.99.

Subscribe

The post Grapes That Wish They Were Pinot Noir appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

In recent years, however, U.S. sales have sharply declined. In the aftermath of the pandemic, industry experts project a 25% drop in Beaujolais Nouveau sales in the U.S., according to a 2020 Euronews report.

So, how did Nouveau lose its zeal?

It has little to do with the wine itself. Cultural and sociological changes have changed the way people saw, drank and thought about Nouveau—and the entire Beaujolais region.

An Old History of New Wine

Among the rolling hills and tiny villages just south of Burgundy and north of Lyon, France, lies Beaujolais. The region is synonymous with Gamay, the area’s most-planted grape. A vibrant, fruit-forward wine, Beaujolais Nouveau is created through carbonic maceration, a method during which whole red grapes rest inside a tank with carbon dioxide, triggering fermentation to begin within the uncrushed grapes. The technique yields wines with a light, refreshing flavor profile.

Although the style was enjoyed for centuries in France, it didn’t gain widespread attention until 1951, when the Union Interprofessionnelle des Vins du Beaujolais gave the wine its name and a designated November release date.  Only then are the wines, made from harvested grapes earlier in the year, to be released.

Soon thereafter, winemakers began to compete with one another via mass marketing campaigns, and Beaujolais Nouveau Day had its own slogan, “Le nouveau est arrivé.” By the 1980s, droves of wine drinkers across Europe, the U.S. and Asia were toasting glasses of Beaujolais Nouveau.

“When Beaujolais Nouveau was first introduced to the U.S. wine drinker, the public had an affinity for French wine and cuisine, and so there was an eager audience for something with such an incredible story and history behind it,” says Dennis Kreps, co-owner of Quintessential Wines, the U.S. importer of the world’s most famous Beaujolais Nouveau producer, Georges Duboeuf.

“But with all trends, there are ebbs and flows,” says Kreps. “In the ’90s and 2000s, the American palate shifted to domestic wines: bold Napa Cabs, spicy Zins and buttery Chardonnay. The popularity of imported wines dipped and with that, the demand for Beaujolais Nouveau.”

A Big Shift

The wine’s fame overseas was due largely to the late winemaker Georges Duboeuf, who launched his label in 1964. His Nouveau wines were approachable, easy-drinking and notably inexpensive. In its heyday, Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau sold as many as 1.185 million nine-liter cases in U.S. stores, according to the academic society, the American Association of Wine Economists.

By 2019, however, sales had dwindled.

“It started in the 1980s,” says Pamela Wittmann, principal of Millissime PR & Marketing Services, which specializes in brand awareness for international wine companies. “Sales went up and up and up, and then there was an inflection point when things started going down.”

According to Wittmann, Nouveau became a victim of its own success in America. Sure, it was a great source of income and recognition for Beaujolais, but producers and distributors relied too heavily on the revenue from one specific style of wine.

“The reputation of the Beaujolais Nouveau took precedence over serious wines that were made in the region,” says Wittman. “I’m not just talking about just Cru Beaujolais, but also regular Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages.”

When interest in Nouveau started to wane, public esteem for other varieties of Beaujolais red, white and rosé wines fell. For most U.S. consumers, Beaujolais was synonymous with Nouveau. Once they lost interest in that wine, the entire region fell out of favor.

New Opportunities

In recent years, the region has amped up wine education, awareness and tourism to change its reputation.

“Producers became smarter and started saying, ‘We’re making this wine, but we’re also making other wines,’ ” says Wittman. “The region became a lot more open to tourists and letting people visit vintners, and showing them what else they do.”

Consumer esteem for Beaujolais Nouveau may have waned, but other wines from Beaujolais have surged. Exports of reds and rosés from the region spiked 22% in 2019.

“The Nouveau trend that took off earlier on was impressive to see,” says Rocco Lombardo, president of Wilson Daniels. “The wines were approachable, economical and only available for a finite time during the year, adding to their appeal. However, today’s consumers are more interested in wines of greater complexity that translate a sense of place.”

There’s increased consumer savvy about French wine and regions, too.

“Consumers are beginning to understand that opening a bottle of Cru Beaujolais from a producer like Château du Moulin-à-Vent, who is focused on single-vineyard, terroir-driven expressions, is a way to truly experience Burgundy without the hefty Burgundy price tag,” says Lombardo.

Interest in Cru Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages and other wines from the region could pave the way for a Nouveau comeback, says Kreps. So could ever-changing consumer trends.

“Now, the American wine drinker has a different taste,” says Kreps. “Lighter, fresher styles like Pinot Noir, and high-acidity, food-friendly wines are what consumers are gravitating toward. It’s because of this that Beaujolais Nouveau is again rising in its popularity.”

La future est arrivée.

The post How Beaujolais Nouveau Won (And Lost) Generations of U.S. Drinkers appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

This is Beaujolais all grown up. Just south of Burgundy with ten Crus to explore, each offers its own personality and refinement. The Crus from north to south are Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-a-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly and Côtes de Brouilly.

All of these regions produce Gamay with structure, and can be cellared for many years. That being said, this more serious version of Gamay is still fruit forward, easy to drink and fun, but offers a more sophisticated and intriguing take on the grape.

Château du Moulin-à-Vent 2017 Champ de Cour (Moulin-à-Vent); $63, 93 points. A small harvest because of hail has produced this richly concentrated wine. Dense tannins and impressive black fruits are layered with acidity and a tensely structured character. The wine should be aged further to reveal its full panoply of flavors. Drink from 2022. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —Roger Voss

Domaine Dubost 2018 La Ballofière (Morgon); $28, 93 points. This wine has the structure proper to a Morgon, with rich tannins as well as ripe and juicy red fruits. A dry core is balanced by the delicious fruitiness and intense acidity. All of these elements will allow the wine to age. Drink from 2021. Kindred Vines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.

Domaine Franck Besson 2017 Clos du Fief (Juliénas); $30, 93 points.
This wine has great richness, tannins and smooth black fruits that have benefited from 12 months in wood. It has an impressively ripe texture and a dense structure. Drink the wine now, although it will be even better from late 2020. Bonhomie Wine Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.

Domaine Richard Rottiers 2018 Mortperay (Moulin-à-Vent); $25, 93 points. This well-structured wine has a firm, dry core of tannins. The fruit is coming through, with swathes of blackberry flavors and potential richness. Generosity will be the dominant character of this wine as it matures. Drink from 2021. American B.D. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 

Domaine Chardigny 2018 Clos de la Folie (Saint-Amour); $25, 92 points. Wood aging has given this wine an impressive extra dimension. Along with the ripe black-cherry fruits, the wine has spice and a generous texture of perfumes and richness. It is fuller than a typical Beaujolais cru, but it is attractive and will be ready from late 2020. American B.D. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.

Domaine des Marrans 2017 Corcelette (Morgon); $25, 92 points. This ripe, fully textured wine offers both tannins and forward, ripe fruits. It has a juicy element, with red-berry fruits, good acidity plus structure from wood aging. The elements in this perfumed wine will come together from late 2020. Skurnik Wines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.

Maison du Carra 2018 Clos des Déduits (Fleurie); $20, 92 points. This single vineyard with vines up to 50 years old has produced a solid, dark and structured wine. Ripe fruits give the wine weight and juicy acidity, both of which will allow it to age. Drink from 2021. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.

Albert Bichot 2018 La Madone (Fleurie); $30, 91 points. The steep hill of La Madone vineyard gives structured wine such as this. It is powerfully ripe, full of black cherry and spice with a core of tannins that will soften comfortably. Fresh acidity adds to the aging potential. Drink from 2021. Albert Bichot USA. —R.V.

Les Frères Perroud 2018 Amethyste (Brouilly); $25, 91 points. The Perroud family is a famous name in Brouilly. Here, Robert Perroud has teamed up with his brother Michel to produce this ripe, structured wine that brings out minerality as well as the spice and toastiness of a wood-aged wine. It should be ready from late 2020. Authentique Vin. —R.V.

Pascal Aufranc 2018 Les Cerisiers (Juliénas); $22, 91 points. Planted in an area where cherry trees once grew, this fruity wine also has firm core of tannins. Its acidity and structure show aging potential, giving a texture that will soften. Drink from late 2020. Zancanella Importing Co. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.

The post 10 Bottles of Cru Beaujolais to Drink Now or Cellar appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

An hour north of the city of Lyon, Beaujolais’s spirit is half in the north of France, looking toward Burgundy, and half in the south, with eyes toward the Rhône Valley and Languedoc.

That dichotomy is reflected in the region’s wines.

In the north, there are the ageworthy, always fascinating wines made in the Burgundian fashion and sold under the 10 village appellations of the Beaujolais crus: Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly and Côte de Brouilly.

In the south, there are easy-drinking wines made with semicarbonic fermentation and sold under the Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages appellations.

All are terrific values. Among cru wines from the current vintage, 2018, 125 bottlings were rated 90 points and higher—but don’t hesitate to buy older bottles. Good Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages, while less ageworthy, are also less expensive.

Beaujolais rocks

There are more contrasts than aspect and designation. The rocks in the north are granite, which is reflected in the area’s architecture and wines. In the south, clay and limestone dominate, creating the beautiful stone that inspired the region to be called Terres Dorées, the golden land.

Then there are the vineyards. The traditional way to plant vines was as bush vines, with each plant in its own universe. It’s hard to manage and harvest, but the many vineyards like this speak to the veneration of the unique heritage of old vines in Beaujolais.

In more modern vineyards, younger vines are planted in rows, trained on wires, easy to control and harvest. All of Beaujolais, even the new plantings, must be harvested by hand.

More Than One Way to Make Wine

Just as there all these dualities to Beaujolais, there are two main ways to produce it: semicarbonic and classic Burgundy. Check out below to learn the technical details; the results are distinct and tailor-made for the region’s two styles.

If you are producing fruity wines to be enjoyed young, then semicarbonic maceration is for you.

If you’re after ageworthy wines, then the Burgundian technique is at hand. An increasing number of influential producers use the latter, as they see the potential that has always been present in Beaujolais.

Other parameters come into play—the terroir, the type of soil, the age of the vines and the way they’re planted in the vineyard.

All those factors come together in the wines. One thing that can be said with certainty: Beaujolais may have just one grape—red Gamay, here since the 14th century—but it’s not one vast, homogenous vineyard. It has many styles; producers have many tools in their backpacks.

Spoiled for Choice

The choice for wine producers is not an “either/or” in Beaujolais. There are plenty of ways to use those Gamay grapes.

Anita Kuhnel of Domaine Anita speaks for many producers when she says, “both winemaking techniques have their place.” While 70% of her wines are made by the Burgundian method, she uses semicarbonic maceration for “wines from my young vines that really don’t lend themselves to aging.”

It’s the old vines, of which she has many, that demand the Burgundian method.

“I want to get the noble tannins from the skins, especially as the berries from old vines are often small and the skins are thick,” she says. These are perfect conditions for wines that can age, like Domaine Anita’s Coeur de Vigneronne.

This choice wasn’t always there. According to Cyril Chirouze, director of Château des Jacques in Romanèche-Thorins, destalking and long macerations were once the norm in Beaujolais, just as they are in Burgundy.

Carbonic maceration, and its adaptation to semicarbonic maceration, are interlopers from Languedoc. There, the technique was used to make quick, inexpensive wine from Carignan and Aramon grapes for field and factory workers.

“It was the creation of Beaujolais Nouveau in the 1950s, which needed to be made and drunk in months,” says Chirouze, that caused semicarbonic maceration to gain its tank-hold in Beaujolais.

Burgundy Drifts South

When it purchased 200-acre Château des Jacques in 1996, négociant Louis Jadot became, by far, the earliest arrival from Burgundy. Ownership of the company was attracted by the possibilities of the Gamay grape and the comparatively inexpensive land, in comparison to Burgundy.

Others have followed, like Albert Bichot at Domaine de Rochegrès in Moulin-à-Vent. The Henriot family, owners of Bouchard Père et Fils in Burgundy, purchased Château de Poncié in Fleurie. Both owners brought Burgundian know-how and produce wines with that influence at the fore.

Other Burgundians went for larger buys: Louis Latour at négociant Henry Fessy and the Boisset family at négociant Mommessin. Both companies continue to make Beaujolais for early consumption using semicarbonic maceration. Mommessin launched a range of wines called Les Mises, using Burgundian techniques.

Lydie Nesme, the Mommessin winemaker, says she’s “100% Beaujolais” from a family that has grown grapes “for generations.” With Les Mises, she selects parcels of vines from the crus of Saint-Amour, Moulin-à-Vent and Côte de Brouilly, as well as two from Morgon, Côte de Py and Les Charmes. Her approach shows the flexibility possible in Beaujolais.

“We choose the type of vinification depending on the parcel,” she says. “For example, Morgon Côte de Py, which comes from black granite soil, is half Burgundy-style and half semicarbonic. Côte de Brouilly, whose rocks are volcanic, is made entirely with the Burgundian technique. Saint-Amour, with its chalk and granite mix, is semicarbonic.”

The Effects of Aging

Nesme points out the effects of each technique on the wines’ aging potential. “The semicarbonic vinification means the wines can age a maximum of five years. With Burgundian, it’s five to 10.”

Pascal Aufranc in Juliénas and Chénas also had aging on his mind when he created his Burgundian-style Chénas Naturellement, bottled without added sulfur.

“It allowed me to have more aromatic fruit, while the higher acidity gives the wine aging potential,” he says.

Aufranc echoes other producers when he says that there’s so much flexibility in Beaujolais today.

“Both types of vinification have their place in Beaujolais,” he says. “The range of wines and their styles is so large today, it opens up so many possibilities.”

For his other cuvées, Aufranc uses semicarbonic maceration. He says that “this can bring out more of my terroir, especially the floral aromas of the granite that defines my vineyards.”

Beaujolais is enjoying a renaissance. It has emerged from the era of industrial wine. There’s a return to origins and a greater understanding of the possibilities to reflect the varied terroirs.

And to hand, they have a grape, Gamay, that lends itself to so many interpretations. Charlene Denis is sales manager of Château de Chatelard, which is owned by the Duboeuf family, but operated independently. She describes Gamay as a “grape that is so versatile, able to be vinified in so many different ways, able to give wines that have totally different profiles.”

It’s an exciting time to be a Beaujolais producer. And it’s an exciting time to explore all the tastes that this beautiful region can offer.

The difference between carbonic and semicarbonic maceration

Learn the difference between semicarbonic maceration and the Burgundian technique.

Carbonic maceration is the result of a carbon dioxide-rich atmosphere inside a closed container. The grapes start to ferment spontaneously from the inside out. The end product is a softly textured wine that’s ready to drink while still young. Call it whole-grape fermentation.

Semicarbonic maceration, the technique used in Beaujolais, involves fermentation that starts in closed containers, like carbonic maceration. The wine is then transferred to traditional fermentation vats and yeast is added to continue the process. While some of the wines will go into wood, many will continue to age in tanks, which highlight the fruit and lower the tannins.

Carbonic maceration is not a new technique. It occurs naturally when grapes are put in a closed jar or container. But it was Jules Chauvet, a wine négociant and chemist who worked in the region after World War II, who developed the semicarbonic technique for Beaujolais Nouveau to be consumed as soon as possible after harvest.

The Burgundian technique is very different. Grapes are destalked and crushed before fermentation. That opens the fruit up and brings out the tannins that will allow the wine to age. Only then does fermentation start, either through natural yeasts on the grape skins or from added yeasts. In most cases, wines made this way in Beaujolais will also have wood aging.

Explore the Versatility

Here are three wines made by semicarbonic maceration:

Clos des Quatre Vents 2018 Fleurie; $24, 91 points. From a family-owned estate that is managed by Georges Duboeuf, this wine shows a good structure as well as ripe fruit. Tannins give weight and backbone to a wine that could well age. Drink from late 2020. Quintessential Wines.

Robert Perroud 2018 L’Enfer des Balloquets (Brouilly); $20, 91 points. Historically known as l’enfer, or hell, this sheltered vineyard is hand-harvested on a 40% slope. The resulting wine is ripe and smoothly textured. This vintage has spice and the potential of black fruits that will come out strongly as the wine matures. Drink from 2021. American B.D.

Vignerons de Bel-Air 2018 Beaujolais-Villages; $13, 88 points. This is a structured wine, with some firm tannins as well as ripe berry fruits. Freshness comes from bright acidity that shines easily through the concentration from the old vines. Drink now.Cuvée Imports. Best Buy.

And three made the Burgundian way:

Château des Jacques 2017 Clos des Rochegrès (Moulin-à-Vent); $38, 94 points. This wood-aged wine comes from 45-year-old vines in one of the top vineyards in the appellation. Rich and beautifully structured, it has tannins and a firm structure that point to aging. Wait to drink this wine until 2022. Kobrand. Cellar Selection.

Domaines Dominique Piron 2017 Côte du Py (Morgon); $30, 94 points. From one of the top producers in Morgon, this bottling combines great terroir and old vines to give a wine that has so much structure. The dry core is still keeping the fruit in check, waiting to let it burst out in blackberry glory. Let this wine age and drink from 2022. Baron Francois. Cellar Selection.

Jean Loron 2018 Château de Fleurie (Fleurie); $24, 92 points. From vines around an 18th-century chateau in the village of Fleurie, this wine is structured and packed with ripe fruit. It has that poise between perfumed fruit and tannins that marks this appellation. Drink this wine from 2021. David Bowler Wine. Editors’ Choice.

The post There’s More Than One Way to Beaujolais appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Traditionally produced in Beaujolais, the variety is establishing a happy home throughout the region, where a handful of winemakers already grow Gamay and anticipate more plantings to come.

“Because of the juxtaposition of a sunny climate with cold ocean winds, our refrigerated-sunlight conditions prove to be an incredible place to grow cold-climate varieties like Gamay,” says John Faulkner, winemaker at Pence Vineyards & Winery in Sta. Rita Hills.

Pence began growing the grape in 2014. Today, it has one of the most extensive Gamay programs around, recently adding two more acres. Consumers, though initially hesitant, have also gotten on board, and the winery’s Annual Gamay Dinner is now its most popular event.

So, what’s the appeal?

“The simple answer is that it’s not Pinot Noir,” says Eric Johnson, owner/winemaker of Ann Albert Wines. He makes Gamay from Martian Ranch in Los Alamos.

“I love Pinot Noir, but it’s everywhere and everyone is making it. Gamay is almost like a different spin… It tends to [be] darker on the fruit spectrum but lighter in texture, [and can] hold its acid quite well… They tend to be very approachable, even to the most novice taster.”

Jeremy Leffert of Rabble Wine Company, who bottles Gamay from the Santa Maria Valley for his Stasis label, agrees.

“Although plantings are scarce, Gamay is a refreshing change from the [varieties] that occupy the lion’s share of acreage and space on wine lists,” he says.

Plus: “Gamay has a very strong sense of identity. Site and varietal expression has the tendency to trump winemaking.”

That taste of place and state is what makes this Gamay Noir so worth seeking.

“I have yet to taste a Gamay from Santa Barbara County, including my own, that brings me back to Fleurie or Morgon,” says Drake Whitcraft, who makes Gamay for his namesake label. “I love the Gamay I make, but it is distinctly Californian—as it should be.”

The post The Light, Fresh California Red Winning Over Pinot Noir Fans appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Though the 2019 Beaujolais harvest was down by 25%, the grapes were of high quality and fully picked in early October. The Gamay grapes that produce Beaujolais Nouveau were harvested in mid-September, which gave producers eight weeks to make the wine, bottle it and ship to the U.S.

Overall, Beaujolais wines from the 2019 vintage, nouveau included, have more structure and tannins than usual. At the same time, there’s plenty of the open fruitiness that makes Beaujolais Nouveau a go-to Thanksgiving wine.

Philippe Thillardon, president of the Oedoria cooperative near Villefranche-sur-Saône, describes the wines as “fruity and very refreshing.” And the nouveau wines are ready to drink right now — provided you can get your hands on one.

How the tariffs will affect Beaujolais Nouveau

Beaujolais Nouveau is the first vintage released post-tariffs.

After a World Trade Organization (WTO) ruling allowed its implementation, the U.S. began to impose a 25% tariff on wines from France, Germany, Spain and Great Britain on October 18, among other European products. The tariff is placed on bottled still wines less than 14.1% alcohol by volume (abv). Typically, nouveau have 13–13.5% abv.

Some importers canceled or trimmed orders after the WTO announced its decision. However, many shipments were already in transit when the tariff went into effect. U.S. Customs won’t release the wine until the tariff is paid by the importer.

Louis Latour Inc. is the importer of Latour-owned Henry Fessy Beaujolais. Christine Lauchenauer, the group’s national accounts manager, says that importers canceled half the usual allocation.

“We have kept some key accounts, such as Wegmans food stores [in the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic regions], but California and Midwest distributors have canceled,” says Lauchenauer. “Luckily, the cancelations were made before the wine was bottled and labeled, so Henry Fessy will be able to send the wine to other markets.”

In some cases, producers and importers will bear the tariff costs.

That’s the case at Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. The New York City importer handles Joseph Drouhin Burgundy and Beaujolais wines. Its president, John Caruso, says that “the extra costs of the 250 cases of Nouveau we import will be absorbed by us and Maison Drouhin.”

Caruso says they plan to maintain pre-tariff prices throughout the portfolio until the end of the year.

“We will try to maintain shelf pricing after that,” he says. But for wines from many smaller producers, retail prices will likely rise.

Denis Kreps, co-owner of Quintessential Wines in Napa, California, says his company has imported 100,000 cases of Georges Duboeuf Nouveau this year. No existing orders were canceled, but the tariff increase has “taken a couple of years off my life,” says Kreps.

Duboeuf and Quintessential agreed to each pay one-third of the tariff hike, with wholesalers covering the rest. But Kreps predicted that after the new year, when he plans to release the cru Beaujolais from 2018, there could be price increases.

If wine is drama, there may be more to come. The WTO reviews tariffs 120 days after they go into effect, and the Trump administration could propose tariff reductions, increases or product changes, all of which could affect retail prices.

Legislative drama notwithstanding, Beaujolais Nouveau fans are eager to celebrate this year’s release. Duboeuf will hold the biggest U.S. party in Houston. Duboeuf’s owner, Franck Duboeuf, and his wife, Anne, will unveil the 2019 nouveau label, designed by Texas native Laura Runge. Winner of this year’s Georges Duboeuf Artist Label Competition, she beat 700 contestants with her design, “Joyous Crush.”

Other parties around the country include Washington D.C.’s Schneider’s of Capitol Hill. The wine shop will offer a special tasting evening of nouveau and cru Beaujolais wines. Elyse Genderson, vice president of Schneider’s, says the price of its nouveau will be $12.99.

While sales are recorded, questions remain of where the wine and the nouveau business will be 12 months from now. “We are hoping only this year is impacted,” says Lauchenauer. “We will have to wait and see.”

The 2019 Beaujolais Nouveau Wines

Antonin Rodet 2019 Nouveau (Beaujolais); $14. This producer has made a juicy, banana and ripe red-fruit flavored wine. The light texture is typical of this vintage’s nouveau wines, giving some weight to the fruit driven palate. Drink now. Baron Francois Ltd.

Antonin Rodet 2019 Nouveau Rosé (Beaujolais); $14. Bright and fruity with strawberry jelly flavors and crisp acidity, this wine is lightly perfumed. It is a soft nouveau rosé with a candy shop character. Eagle Eye Brands.

Bouchard Aîné et Fils 2019 Nouveau (Beaujolais); $14. This Beaune negociant house has made a ripe style of nouveau. The juicy nature of the fruit and the tannins combine to create a food-friendly wine. Fruitiness rules the finish leaning on red berry flavors at the end. Drink now. Drink now. Boisset Collection.

Château d’Ouilly 2019 Nouveau (Beaujolais); $15. This structured wine is hand-picked from an estate managed by the Georges Duboeuf team. The ripe red-berry fruits are from young vines that are soon to be certified organic. With a firm grip of tannins on the palate, it should be enjoyed alongside food rather than alone. Quintessential Wines.

Domaine des 3 Vallons 2019 Nouveau (Beaujolais-Villages); $15. This wine is from one of the properties managed by Georges Duboeuf. It is smoky and spicy in nature, balanced by bright red fruits and plenty of fresh acidity. Quintessential Wines.

Georges Duboeuf 2019 Nouveau (Beaujolais); $13. This wine offers a mild depth of ripe cherry fruit supported by firm tannins. A hint of banana pops up, which is typical of nouveau. Quintessential Wines.

Georges Duboeuf 2019 Nouveau (Beaujolais-Villages); $15. This is structured wine that shows a grip of tannins and bright acidity balanced by plenty of succulent red fruits and a hint of smoke. It could age a few months but is obviously quite delicious now. Quintessential Wines.

Georges Duboeuf 2019 Nouveau Rosé (Beaujolais); $13. This soft wine is smoothly textured with red berry flavors and some spice. The strawberry fruits give it an open aftertaste. Quintessential Wines.

Henry Fessy 2019 Nouveau (Beaujolais); $14. The typical banana flavors of young Beaujolais show here. It offers a mild concentrated of flavor to yield an attractive and fruity wine to drink now. Louis Latour Inc.

Henry Fessy 2019 Nouveau Rosé (Beaujolais); $14. Soft, rounded and fruity, this wine has an open feel in the mouth. Its bright acidity makes a pleasing contrast to this softness. Louis Latour Inc.

Henry Fessy 2019 Nouveau (Beaujolais-Villages); $15. This wine has a good mix of firm tannins and ripe black fruits. Together they produce a food-friendly, spicy wine that is ready to drink. Louis Latour Inc.

Henry Fessy 2019 Nouveau Flower Label (Beaujolais); $14. This wine offers richness in attractive red berry fruit flavors. There is a fine juicy character to the light-bodied palate. Louis Latour Inc.

Henry Fessy 2019 Nouveau Vieilles Vignes (Beaujolais-Villages); $15. While this is a young, fruity wine made to drink now, it does display a decent amount of structure and concentration that could help it last through early 2020. It is bright in berry fruit intensity, with fresh acidity to match. Louis Latour Inc.

Joseph Drouhin 2019 Nouveau Primeur (Beaujolais); $14. This is a ripe, fruity wine that is full of blackberry fruits and ripe tannins. Acidity and structure go hand-in-hand, producing a wine that will be better with food. Drink now. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co.

Mommessin 2019 Les Conscrits Classe 9 Nouveau (Beaujolais); $14. Named after an annual festival celebrating Beaujolais, this wine is structured and carries some weight on the palate. It’s concentration contrasts with the bubbly red fruit typical of nouveau wine. Drink now. Boisset Collection.

Vignerons de Bel Air 2019 Nouveau Cuvée Bistrot (Beaujolais); $13. This is a ripe, fruity wine from the vineyards of a co-op that offers a sense of shape and richness. A hint of tannins as well as banana and red berry flavors give a wine that hangs together well and is ready to drink. Cuvée Imports.

Vignerons de Bel Air 2019 Nouveau Cuvée Natural (Beaujolais-Villages); $14. Red fruits shine in this fruity wine from generations of families who first came together as a co-op in 1929. The gentle tannins are easily absorbed by the fresh berry flavors and bright acidity. Cuvée Imports.

Vignerons de Bel Air 2019 Nouveau Rosé (Beaujolais); $14. This wine from this co-op of 250 producers is rounded, fruity and crisp. It is refreshing and shows
plenty of red currant flavors. Drink now. Cuvée Imports.

The post Beaujolais Nouveau is Here, But So Are the Tariffs appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Since then, the grape has also endured the stigma of nouveau bottlings released to market the third Thursday in November, about two months after harvest. These carbonically macerated, tutti-frutti pours, bearing the Beaujolais-Villages or Beaujolais Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC), are high in acid and low in complexity, and their mass-market appeal has led some drinkers to believe that’s all this variety is capable of.

While nouveau-style wines still account for a good chunk of Beaujolais’s Gamay production, serious bottles are also gaining attention. These bear cru designations and notes of minerality, earth and anise. The grape has found a natural home in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, and a smattering of California producers are also trying their hand at making it. Those thirsty for the full range of Gamay Noir experiences would do well to taste around the globe.

Take flight with a few bottles, or try all six

Colin Bourisset 2017 Domaine de la Garodière (Morgon). Old vines and gentle tannins give this wine structure and ageability with a surprisingly reasonable price tag.

Louis Jadot 2017 Beaujolais-Villages. This is a classic example, with the crisp, peppy fruit and light-bodied drinkability.

Joseph Drouhin 2018 Nouveau (Beaujolais-Villages). Don’t let the “nouveau” fool you—this is rich in black fruits and tannins, along with signature brightness.

Ayres 2017 Gamay Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This wine’s got serious juice. Ripe and bursting with red berries, it’s balanced and complex enough to be taken seriously.

Brick House 2017 Gamay Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Made from some of the first U.S. plantings of the grape, this boasts a pleasing cherry soda finish.

Joyce 2018 Gamay Noir (San Benito). From California’s Central Coast, this is heady in floral notes balanced by earth and minerality.

The post Get to Know Gamay Beyond Beaujolais Nouveau appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

However, if you’re attending a barbecue, you may want something with more structure, body and tannins. When choosing wine to go with steak or a charbroiled burger, the situation may call for a red. But that doesn’t mean you can’t put a bit of chill on your bottle to better enjoy sipping in the summer sun. Some reds can even find their flavors enhanced at lower temperatures.

Quick Tips on Chilling Red Wine

• Chilled red wine should be between 50°F–55°F.
• Chill the bottle until it reaches the refrigerator’s temperature and then take it out an hour before serving. Or leave the wine in the refrigerator for 30-45 minutes.
• If you don’t have access to a refrigerator, place the bottle in a bucket of ice water and table salt to chill the wine faster.
• If you’re on the go, try an insulated tote. For single bottles, a sleeve kept in the freezer can keep things cool longer.
• Lighter-bodied wines with higher acidity prefer lower temperatures.

Many red wines like Cinsault, Zweigelt, Gamay and Pinot Noir benefit from a little extra time in the fridge.

Cinsault’s thin skin has delicate tannins that make it ideal for chilling, and while it has some body, flavors like strawberry and red cherries are further accentuated when cool.

Zweigelt often is often renowned for its notes of chocolate and sour cherry. Its restrained tannins also mean wines made from this grape are a perfect candidate to spend a little extra time in the ice bucket.

Gamay, perhaps best known for its use in Beaujolais, can range from an easy-drinking wine to something more concentrated and ageworthy. Make sure you grab a bottle lighter in body if you plan on keeping it cool.

Depending on where it is produced, Pinot Noir can exhibit a wide range of aromas and textures. Look for bottles from the New World, as these tend to be more fruit-forward and lighter in body, meaning they’ll take well to a chill.

So grab one of our recommended picks below, fire up the grill and get ready to do summer right.

Brewer-Clifton 2017 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills); $40, 94 points. There’s a purity of fruit and herb to Greg Brewer’s style that shines through even on this appellation blend. Aromas of candied raspberry and strawberry pair with damp sage, pine oil and green peppercorn on the nose. The pristine palate’s crisp pomegranate and fresh raspberry flavors are instantly cut by eucalyptus and green tobacco leaf. Editors’ Choice. –Matt Kettmann

Failla 2017 Björnson Vineyard Gamay Noir (Eola-Amity Hills); $30, 92 points. Once again Ehren Jordan has made a stellar Oregan Gamay, fermenting whole clusters with native yeast. The entrancing aromas of huckleberry and blackberry lead into a fruit-packed core that adds sour cherry to the mix. The wine is tangy and bright, with outstanding depth and definition. Editors’ Choice. —Paul Gregutt

Wilson Creek 2016 Winemaker’s Select Cinsault (Temecula Valley); $50, 92 points. Aromas of dark red-cherry paste, star anise, mace, tar and rose show on the nose of this bottling. There’s a rocky, loamy kick to the palate, followed by rounded plum, jasmine tea and strawberry flavors. —M.K.

Craven 2017 Cinsault (Stellenbosch); $35, 91 points. There’s an herbal overlay on the nose of this wine, with scents of fresh mentholated herbs and fynbos that preside over the red currant, pomegranate and cranberry fruit core. The medium-weight palate offers bright acidity and a precise, focused impression, with pointed red fruit flavors that are ripe yet brisk and refreshing. The fine tannins lend a satiny texture, while the finish leads with red fruit flavors that then veer back into herbal, earthy territory. Vine Street Imports. —Lauren Buzzeo

Rodney Strong 2016 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley); $25, 91 points. Bright in acidity and cradled moderate oak, this wine shows a crunchiness to the tannins and bright bursts of cranberry, pomegranate and orange peel flavors. Elements of baking spice dot the finish, contrasting well against the rich fruit. —Virginie Boone

Johanneshof Reinisch 2017 Zweigelt (Thermenregion); $18, 90 points. Smoke and vanilla frames the ripe plum fruit on the nose. The palate is a picture of balanced freshness that presents juicy red cherry edged with the tar and smoke of oak. The finish is dry and elegant. Circo Vino. —Anne Krebiehl MW

Judith Beck 2017 Zweigelt (Weinland Österreich); $20, 90 points. Ripe, almost jammy, plum and black cherry on the nose have a funky gamy edge. The palate is bright, fresh and vivid, with fresh fruit, fine tannins and just a little rusticity. This is a lovely wine for a country picnic. VOS Selections. —A.K.

Loveblock 2018 Pinot Noir (Central Otago); $30, 90 points. While this organically farmed Pinot isn’t as fruit forward as previous vintages, it makes up for it with an abundance of fresh herbs: thyme, rosemary and fennel seeds, with some leafy secondary characters and red-berry fruit in the mix too. Mouthwatering acidity and crunchy fruit are balanced by sandy tannins. Drink this light-bodied bottle a little chilled, with a summer meal seasoned with the same freshly plucked herbs as the nose suggests. Terlato Wines International. —Christina Pickard

Patrick Tranchand 2017 Coeur de Gamay (Saint-Amour); $22, 89 points. Playing on the name of Saint-Amour (named after a Roman soldier), this wine celebrates Gamay. Its juicy red-cherry flavors are bright while allowing space for tannins and aging potential. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —Roger Voss

The Dot 2018 Austrian Cherry Zweigelt (Niederösterreich); $13, 88 points. Juicy, rounded and rather ripe cherry notes on the nose carry seamlessly onto the light but smooth palate. A dash of vanilla makes the cherry seem all the creamier on this easy-drinking little fruit bomb. This will also work well when chilled. Taub Family Selections. Best Buy. —A.K.

Hawthorne 2016 Gamay (Old Mission Peninsula); $18, 88 points. A pretty pale-ruby wine, this Gamay offers aromas of blueberry and foraged blackberry melded with bramble, wild herb and violet. More violet and juicy flavors of cranberry and pomegranate are touched by vanilla, with garrigue adding depth. The acidity is bright but a little unruly, but a spice note on the end offers more complexity to this lovely quaffable red. —Fiona Adams

The post The Best Chillable Red Wines for a Summer Barbecue appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Mostly known for producing the easy-to-drink Beaujolais Nouveau, this versatile red grape is responsible for many of the region’s noteworthy bottles.

So grab and extra blanket (and bottle), curl up on the couch and enjoy some of our recommended finds at all different price points.

Domaine Labruyère 2016 Le Clos du Moulin-à-Vent (Moulin-à-Vent); $79, 94 points. This wood-aged wine offers complex tannins and perfumed fruit. Ripe cherries and spice go with juicy blackberry flavors to produce a wine that will age further. Drink from 2020. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —Roger Voss

Domaine Chardigny 2017 Le Clos du Chapitre (Saint-Amour); $25, 93 points. In this structured wine, some firm tannins sustain the rich black fruits. Its freshness and dark core are still very young, meaning the wine needs to age. It is heading to be a fine wine, so wait until 2020. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V.

Château des Jacques 2016 Clos de Rochegrès (Moulin-à-Vent); $43, 93 points. The wood aging of this wine is apparent in the toasty aromas. On the palate though, the rich fruits come right to the fore. The wine has concentration, density and bold black cherry and plum flavors. It needs to age. Drink from 2022. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. —R.V.

Château Bonnet 2016 Vieilles Vignes (Juliénas); $25, 92 points. In this full and rich wine, great tannins ride under the black fruits. The wine has structure as well as the fruit of the vintage, suggesting good potential for aging. Drink this well-structured wine from 2020. DHI Selections. —R.V.

Lucien Lardy 2017 Les Roches (Fleurie); $22, 91 points. Vines that are nearly 70 years old form the basis of this rich, generous and concentrated wine. Still young, it shows fleshiness and needs to soften and smooth out. The wine has potential and will be better from 2020. Zancanella Importing Co. —R.V.

Domaine Ruet 2017 Grands Cras (Morgon); $22, 91 points. Schist and granite rocks are behind this big, mineral and structured wine. Its tannins and black fruits are young and demanding aging. The wine has a juicy aftertaste, with black-currant flavors. Drink from 2020. Schatzi Wines. —R.V.

Pardon et Fils 2017 Côte du Py (Morgon); $18, 90 points. The granite soil of this famous vineyard gives this wine its dense minerality and firm tannins. Paired with this solid element, the wine offers rich berry flavors and a fresher acidity. It should age well and will not be ready before 2021. Saranty Imports. —R.V.

Château de Poncié 2016 Le Pré Roi (Fleurie); $20, 90 points. Ripe cherry and red-berry flavors burst from the glass with this deliciously fruity wine. It has a soft texture and richness cut with acidity. This is a wine to savor from 2019. Maisons and Domaines Henriot. —R.V.

Domaine de Javernière 2017 Côte du Py (Morgon); $25, 89 points. Structured, full of dark tannins and with a strong Py mineral streak, this wine from nine acres of old vines is still young and needs time. It has weight along with fresh red-cherry flavors that contrast with the structure. Let it age and drink from 2020. Quintessential Wines. —R.V.

Joseph Drouhin 2018 Nouveau (Beaujolais-Villages); $12, 87 points. This Beaune negociant has produced a ripe, black-fruit-flavored wine that has tannins as well as richness. With its structure along with the acidity and brightness, the wine could age, but is also delicious now. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Best Buy. —R.V.

The post 10 Gamays Because You Made it to the Weekend appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.