In the heart of Southeast Asia lies the vibrant city of Bangkok, where a kaleidoscope of experiences await—ancient temples, bustling night markets and a dynamic culinary landscape. The capital of Thailand is one of the best in the world for adventurous food enthusiasts and avid travelers. Street-food stalls where woks sling charred noodles and stir-fries draw crowds, of course, but the city’s epicurean appeal does not end there. Bangkok’s fine-dining scene is on fire, receiving global acclaim for its fusion of traditional ingredients, innovative cooking techniques and international flavors. With such exceptional cuisine, it’s only natural that the wine scene is similarly exciting.
Bangkok is one of the finest cities for oenophiles who crave unexpected food pairings alongside top bottles from around the world. The layered spices, famous heat and mix of textures in Thai food present a delightful challenge for sommeliers, since classical wines often struggle to keep up with intense dishes. Because of this, expect to see bottles with high acidity and residual sugar, which are often found in German bottlings, and aged wines that develop tertiary aromas and flavors.
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Meanwhile, the city is experiencing a boom in natural wine. These bottles offer vibrant, juicy earthy undertones and gamey notes that enhance the spiciness and complexity of Thai dishes. Adventurous and harmonious combinations abound.
But where, precisely, should an adventurous wine drinker in Bangkok start? From under-the-radar wine bars in historic neighborhoods to destination restaurants that have become culinary landmarks, here are the must-visit spots.
Gaggan Anand
Upon entering this intimate dimly lit restaurant located in the tony Sukhumvit neighborhood, you’re met with a neon sign that reads “Be A Rebel” as moody indie rock plays in the background. On a recent visit, the music stopped and chef Gaggan Anand brashly exclaimed, “Let me take full responsibility for destroying the definition of fine dining!”
The gregarious celebrity chef is known for skewering clichés related to destination restaurants. And he’s remarkably successful at it: Gaggan Anand is ranked 17th on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. He achieved this feat by creating an experience that marries comedy, music, performance art and, naturally, world-class food. (White tablecloth not included.)
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The night’s meal is separated into Act I and Act II. First, diners take their seats at the dark-wood bar surrounding an open kitchen. As the chefs cook, they tell the history and principles of Indian and Thai food before serving playful (and somewhat unsettling) dishes like an onion plated to look like the brain of a rat.
Gaggan Anand’s wine program follows the same subversive philosophy. Head sommelier Vladimir Kojic pairs the creative plates from Anand’s kitchen—like the signature “yoghurt explosion,” a savory popsicle filled with mango and tacos filled with marinated pork jowl—with provocative wines. One example is a special bottling from Christian Tschida, a cult natural wine producer from Austria, conveniently named “Be a Rebel.” The wine, a gamey Pinot Noir, elegantly underscores the umami of the bamboo-shoot satay it’s served alongside.
Sühring
Nestled in a restored 1970s house in a quiet, tree-lined neighborhood, Sühring stands as a testament to the growing international influence on Bangkok’s fine-dining scene. The restaurant gives off a homey vibe and looks like a modern German haven, with warm wood accents and floor-to-ceiling windows. It’s an inviting atmosphere ideal for an intimate culinary adventure.
Twin chefs Matthias and Thomas Sühring earned two Michelin stars for their innovative take on German cuisine. Dinner starts with a welcome pour Peter Lauer Brut Reserve 1992, which delivers fine bubbles to whet your appetite. Imperial Ossetra caviar from Hamburg accompanies the sparking wine—a reminder that German gastronomy is more than beer and sausages.
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Sühring’s menu is seasonal and features family recipes that speak to the chefs’ childhood memories in East Germany. Accordingly, most of the pairing menu is German, with a few French intruders. The wine list is classic, with renowned producers like the Rheinhessen-based Keller and Domaine de Villaine, from Burgundy. But also in the mix are offerings like the idiosyncratic Melsheimer Likörwein 2016, an unusual presentation of a skin-contact Riesling. Fortified and sweet, it tastes like orange wine crossed with Madeira.
Sühring also offers a full non-alcoholic pairing menu, which I strongly recommend. These homemade drinks are extravagant and include a barley kombucha, a cocktail of apricot mixed with hazelnut and a concoction of cucumber, green apple, buttermilk and tarragon.
Potong
Chef Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij opened Potong in Bangkok’s historic Song Wat neighborhood in 2021. Launching a fine-dining restaurant during the economic aftermath of the global pandemic was a risky move, but it paid off. Potong catapulted to the list of the city’s best restaurants, immediately earning a Michelin star for Soontornyanakij’s adventurous 20-course tasting menu that showcases traditional ingredients—like banana flowers, crab roe and tamarind—prepared with classical techniques she honed working under the famous chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten.
The restaurant is an ode to Chef Pam’s Thai-Chinese heritage from its menu down to its architecture. In fact, it’s located in a building that her family has owned since 1910, which housed an herbal medicine business. While the interiors have been completely renovated, they nod to their previous life through details like apothecary cabinets and antique wooden accents.
The wine list at Potong leans European and the pairings are well executed. To wit: Domaine Bott-Geyl Gewurztraminer Les Éléments 2018 stood up to a dish of crab-roe emulsion served with crab broth and crab-butter bread. However, the best pairing was the bold, 14-day aged duck served with Weingut Johannes Trapl Karpatenschiefer Blaufränkisch 2018, a subtle red that let the dish’s strong flavor shine. Whether you’re a classist or a natural wine lover, you’ll find a bottle that excites you at Potong. The restaurant also collaborates with Issara Estates, a Thai winery located north of Bangkok.
Le Du
Le Du was crowned the best restaurant in Asia last year by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants organization, the first Thai restaurant to earn the distinction. There, Chef ThiTid “Ton” Tassanakajohn offers a remarkable sojourn through Thai culinary culture in a sleek space outfitted with a crystal ceiling, Danish-style furniture and matte-black floors and walls.
Here, you will eat very well if you like bold, rich flavors and textures. Tassanakajohn has a gift for making complex dishes feel comforting, but never overbearing, and the menu seamlessly blends traditional Thai flavors with innovative techniques that result in familiar yet refreshingly original plates.
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Because of their rich textures and complexity, the dishes cry for wine—we suggest ordering by the bottle instead of opting for the wine pairing option. Go for an expressive bottle with prominent acidity that can stand up to the dishes, like Didier Dagueneau’s Silex. The list offers several classic European wines from renowned regions of France, Italy, Germany and beyond.
That said, the pairings, which are generally thoughtful, provide a more straightforward option for those who don’t want to overthink their order. One such instance is the raw red snapper with mantis shrimp and bitter lemon served with Robert Weil Riesling Kiedricher Klosterberg 2016. For the signature dish—the river prawn with pork belly jam, organic rice and shrimp paste—I recommend a richer white wine, like Château Yvonne Saumur Blanc Yvonne 2021, which is featured on the list.
Ms. Maria and Mr. Singh
For diners who wish to try chef Gaggan Anand’s food, but in a more casual setting, consider the Indian-Mexican inspired wine bar Ms. Maria & Mr. Singh, which is right above his namesake restaurant. The prices are more affordable while the food and wine programs are just as ambitious. Not to miss on the wine list is the entire vertical of Émilien Feneuil’s sparkling and still wines.
About Eatery
If you ask the locals in the know where to enjoy a drink, chances are they’ll point you to About Eatery. As the city’s premier natural wine bar, which opened in 2016, it exclusively showcases wines from organic and biodynamic producers.
Owner and sommelier Giulio Saverino has been a trailblazer in Bangkok’s natural wine scene and selects bottles by legendary, low-intervention producers from Italy like Gabriel Bini from Pantelleria; Paolo Bea from Umbria; and Le Coste from Lazio. For those with more traditional tastes, classics such as Giacomo Conterno from Piedmont, or Frank Cornelissen and Girolamo Russo, both from Sicily, are also available. Gems from other parts of the world are on the list as well.
While fresh pastas and well-sourced ingredients are the stars of the food menu, an array of charcuterie make for a casual yet delightful dining experience. Ask Giulio for a tip for pairing and you won’t regret it.
No Bar
Nestled in the trendy yet slightly secluded Ari neighborhood, No Bar Wine Bar draws its name from its origins as an online wine shop established during the height of the Covid-19 pandemic. The venue exudes an understated charm, with cement floors, abundant greenery and soft lighting. Owners Natchanon Vana and Eye Pornchanok Dibdee have seamlessly transitioned their venture from a robust online presence into a multifaceted business encompassing a wine shop, wine bar and kitchen featuring non-traditional Thai flavors that cater to wine lovers of all stripes.
The wine list is extensive, with over 400 selections. While Central and Eastern European wines take center stage, aficionados of Champagne, other regions of France and Italy will also find plenty to delight in. Look for offerings from Clos Cibon, Olivier Horiot, Matassa, Gut Oggau or Milan Nestarec.
Chenin
Like its name suggests, the wine bar Chenin pays homage to one of the world’s most beloved grapes. Nestled in the vibrant Sukhumvit neighborhood, it’s something of an all-day café, with brunch and coffee served on the first floor until 4 p.m., while the restaurant and wine bar offer dinner on the second floor. Guest chefs prepare omakase-style tasting menus on the fourth.
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With a selection that focuses primarily on natural wines, Chenin caters to both casual sippers and connoisseurs alike. It offers stellar affordable options, like Köhler Ruprecht Chardonnay Kabinett 2021; expensive bottles on its “Rolls Royce” menu, like Jean-Marc Roulot Meursault Vireuils 2017; and plenty of options in between. The spacious, modern establishment is also fantastic for groups since it offers large format bottles (don’t miss the Maison Valette Le Clos Reyssié 2011).
The food menu, which riffs on classic European fare, includes a delightful array of snacks and hearty main courses, with standout dishes like the Hasselback potatoes and Umeboshi boquerones. The menu changes weekly to showcase seasonal ingredients.
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Published: May 1, 2024
