Lately, however, an increasing number of Washington winemakers have been turning to white varieties from France’s Rhône Valley with impressive results.

In the last several years, Washington has offered thrilling examples of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Picpoul, Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche and even the rarely seen Picardan, as well as blends of these grapes.

“I love white Rhône varieties mostly for their aromatics and their texture,” says Charlie Lybecker, owner and winemaker at Cairdeas Winery in Manson. “You can have a wine that has acidity but is also soft. That’s oftentimes a really hard combination to find.”

Lybecker recently planted the state’s first Picardan.

“With Picardan, you get that crazy acidic brightness of Picpoul, but you also have the nice aromatic qualities of Clairette [Blanche],” he says.

In addition to its exploration of white Rhône varieties, site selection in Washington has improved, with growers planting at higher elevations and in cooler locations. Sean Boyd, owner and winemaker at Rôtie Cellars, gets fruit for his Rhône-style white blends from Walla Walla Valley, an appellation most often known for its reds.

“It’s a little cooler,” says Boyd of the valley. “We’re picking at the end of September, so we have some long hang time but still have good acids.”

With a string of superb vintages, the quality of these paler-tinted wines has also soared in recent years, and Rhône varieties have been leading the way. These wines show texture and richness, but also a distinct acidic snap that has often been missing.

So, are these grapes Washington’s next big blanc thing? Everything mentioned here suggests yes, but current production levels say no. Plantings remain scarce, and many of the best examples don’t travel far beyond the state’s borders.

For now, these wines look to remain an insider secret. But it doesn’t seem a stretch to imagine these varieties might someday define the state’s white wines in the eyes of critics and consumers alike.

Three to Try

Avennia 2018 La Perle (Columbia Valley); $40, 94 points. Roussanne makes up 65% of this wine, with the rest Marsanne. Fruit comes from Sagemoor, stalwart Boushey and, notably newcomer WeatherEye. It is a revelation. Appealing aromas of almond, corn silk, custard, stone fruit and spice lead to a full-bodied richly textured palate, brightened by lively acidity and heightened by a hyperextended finish. It’s a benchmark wine for the state—nothing short of an accomplishment. Editors’ Choice

Gramercy 2019 Picpoul (Walla Walla Valley); $20, 92 points. Aromas of citrus zest, whole lemon and wet stone are followed by medium-bodied tart and puckering white-grapefruit flavors backed by electric acidity. This wine has always been a standout, but this vintage brings more of everything: more aromatic and flavor complexity and even more acidity. It requires food alongside it to be fully appreciated. Pair it with grilled halibut with a lemon oregano sauce. Editors’ Choice

Cairdeas 2019 Marsanne (Yakima Valley); $30, 91 points. Blended with 16% Roussanne from Lawrence Vineyard with the rest of the fruit coming from famed Boushey, this wine was fermented in concrete and then aged in stainless steel and new French oak. The aromas are brooding out of the gate, with notes of lemon balm, almond and crushed rock. The palate is medium bodied and seamless in feel. It brings a whole lot of acidity for this variety. Editors’ Choice

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Though they’re found throughout Italy, as well as other countries in the Adriatic region, those from Piedmont are considered the gold standard. These pricy fungi grow underground and share chemical compounds with some beguiling, not-always-pleasant aromas like wet dog. When you pair with wine, focus on their many more attractive attributes.

Mushroomy

With similar woodsy, mushroom-like notes—and even aromas of white truffles—Barolo is a classic pairing. Made from Nebbiolo in the area just southwest of Alba, the informal truffle capital of Italy, its tannins help cut the richness of truffle-laced pastas and risottos.

Earthy

White truffles smell invitingly of the wet soil in which they grow. An exuberantly fruity Pinot Noir could overwhelm this quality, but one of the earthiest and most elegant expressions of the grape, red Burgundy, would be an ideal match. If you’re able to splurge, opt for a Grand Cru from the Côte de Nuits.

Honeyed

While they don’t necessarily smell sugary sweet, white truffles have a floral and spicy sweetness reminiscent of honey. Marsanne features honeyed pear, apricot, acacia and Christmas spice flavors that will bring out the truffles’ richer side. Marsanne-based Hermitage Blanc would be an especially luxe option.

Garlicky

White truffle has an appealingly pungent garlic aroma, but you won’t want that sulfurous note in your wine. Choose to sip something with flavors that complement garlic, like the olive, bacon and peppery notes of Côte-Rôtie. This Northern Rhône wine represents the pinnacle of Syrah.

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Northern Rhône whites are a marked contrast to fashionably zingy, linear wines like Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc. These wines are distinctly lower in acidity, with a richness and perfume that can border on flamboyant. They are timeless, if not trendy, wines often overlooked on restaurant menus and store shelves.

Until the 1990s, Viognier was rarely planted anywhere beyond Condrieu. Known for its dizzying perfume and ample, often blowsy, demeanor, it is as lusty and full-throttled as whites come. Cultivated amidst the steep, sunny hills of Condrieu, it yields heady, acacia-scented wines pulsating with flavors of peach and apricot and edged by notes of musk, marzipan and spice.

In Saint-Joseph, as in Hermitage or Crozes-Hermitage, white wines are typically blends of Marsanne and Rousssane. Marsanne is the softer and more zaftig of the two, producing full-bodied wines with a honeyed, oily richness and broad pear and peach flavors. Roussanne is more pert, offering fresh herb notes, delicate floral tones and peppery spice. Fine tannins and higher acidity give Roussanne a bit more edge than Marsanne. When blended, the plushness of Marsanne and elegance of Roussanne are delightfully complementary. Cheers!

François Villard 2017 Le Grand Vallon (Condrieu); $70, 96 points. Wafting of rose petals and peach marmalade, this is the lustiest, most flamboyant white wine imaginable. It’s unabashedly hedonistic, classically Condrieu, and yet invitingly fresh and balanced. It’s a bottling that’s ready now but sure to please beyond 2030. Editors’ Choice.

Jean-Luc Colombo 2017 Amour de Dieu (Condrieu); $90, 94 points. Aromas of toast, vanilla, preserved peach and caramel are heady here, lending flair to orange cream and honey on the palate. It’s rich and unctuous, silky in texture, but fringed by pleasing bitters. A beauty already, it should evolve positively through 2027. Editors’ Choice.

E. Guigal 2015 Ex Voto White (Hermitage); $320, 93 points. Smoke, cedar and vanilla tones are pronounced now, but plenty of succulent white peach, apricot and tangerine pulses at the core of this generous white. Rippling and rich yet freshly balanced, it’s a sturdy bottling built for the long haul. Drink through 2026. Cellar Selection.

M. Chapoutier 2017 Invitare (Condrieu); $70, 93 points. Crisp white grapefruit and tangerine flavors lend an unusually spry charater to this full-bodied but pristine Condrieu. Accented by whispers of vanilla and sweet spice, it’s an alluring, expansive wine but elegant and restrained, not hulking. The finish is marked by a pleasant bite of tea tannins. Best now–2025.

Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Les Oliviers (Saint-Joseph); $45, 91 points. A blend of equal proportions Marsanne and Roussanne, this intensely mineral white offers zesty lemon and yellow-apple flavors. Made with biodynamic grapes, it’s a juicy, concentrated sip with a thirst-quenching, tangy finish. Enjoy now–2023.

Cave de Tain 2017 Nobles Rives Marsanne (Crozes-Hermitage); $29, 90 points. On first whiff, this full-bodied Marsanne seems a bit quiet, suggesting faint earth and smoke. The palate, however, is ripe and penetrating, bursting with plump white grapefruit and apple. It’s savory yet satisfyingly fruity. The finish is marked by hits of salted nut and tobacco leaf.

Domaine Coursodon 2016 Silice (Saint-Joseph); $45, 90 points. Creamy, concentrated flavors of orange parfait and yellow peach are accented by crisp mineral tones and perfumed apple blossoms in this wine. Made from 100% Marsanne, it’s rich and rounded but maintains a sunny brightness throughout. Enjoy now–2023.

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First things first: The Rhône, a major river in France, rises in the Alps and flows south to the Mediterranean Sea. This river lends its name to the southern French wine region on its banks, the Rhône Valley, as well as its major AOC, Côtes du Rhône.

The indigenous grape varieties that grow in the region, like Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Viognier and Roussanne, are often referred to as Rhône grapes. So, regardless of their place of origin, wines made from these grapes are said to be Rhône-style wines the world over.

Why Rhône-style wines?

While wine has been made in Asia Minor and Europe for thousands of years, some regions, referred to as the New World, evolved later. In the Old World, grape varieties evolved alongside the regions from which they were grown. It’s why many European wines are known by their region, rather than grape variety. Rioja, Champagne and Chianti are prime examples, while villages like Pommard and Chablis are used to identify the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines produced from each, respectively.

In contrast, New World wine regions evolved as immigrants planted grapes brought from their homelands, primarily those popular in Europe. Sometimes this worked, and sometimes not. As wine in the Americas expanded in popularity and reach over the past 50 years, many New World growers looked to the most prestigious regions in France for inspiration.

This is why Cabernet Sauvignon, forever entwined with the great wines of Bordeaux (and to a lesser degree, Merlot), became so heavily planted throughout the New World.

This trend worked well in places that were climatically and geologically suited to those of these Old World grapes. Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is a great example. In cooler regions, winemakers also started to experiment with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the red and white grapes associated with the great wines of Burgundy.

As winemakers and grape growers learned more about the climate and soils of their new homes, the indigenous grapes of the Rhône emerged as an interesting prospect. However, being less recognizable than varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, the term “Rhône-style” became useful shorthand for wines made from the region’s native grapes.

The Rhône wine region

The Rhône is one of the classic French wine regions. It starts in central France, just south of Lyon, stretching almost to the Mediterranean Sea. The region comprises many storied appellations (defined areas with legally mandated grapes and wine styles) that take their name from communes along the river.

The wine world makes a distinction between the Northern Rhône, which runs from the town of Vienne to just south of Valence and claims Syrah as its chief red grape, and the Southern Rhône, south of Valence to just south of Avignon. There, grapes like Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Carignan and Counoise are made into red blends, while Marsanne, Roussanne, Viognier and Clairette are popular choices for white blends.

The appellations of the Northern Rhône Valley, from north to south, are:

• Côte-Rôtie: Red wine made from Syrah, often planted and vinified with the white grape Viognier, which makes the inky color of Syrah even darker. Named after the steep, rocky vineyards, the region’s name translates to “baked slope.”
• Condrieu: White wine made from Viognier.
• Château Grillet: White wine made from Viognier.
• Saint-Joseph: Red wine made from Syrah, white wine made from Marsanne and Roussanne.
• Crozes-Hermitage: Red wine made from Syrah, white wine made from Marsanne and Roussanne.
• Hermitage: Red wine made from Syrah, white wine made from Marsanne and Roussanne
• Cornas: Red wine made from Syrah.
• Saint-Péray: White wine made from Marsanne and Roussanne.

Northern Rhône reds made with Syrah are big, bold, spicy wines with a firm tannic structure in their youth, while Southern Rhône red blends are based mainly on Grenache and have rounded, warm, red fruit flavors.

The Southern Rhône Valley has a wealth of appellations that stretch from either side of the river into the mountains and valleys. Some of the more famous ones are:

• Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Red and white wines made from blends of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, Muscardin, Counoise, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Picardan, Piquepoul, Roussanne, Terret Noir and Vaccarèse.
• Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages: This covers a vast area and stands for red and rosé wines made primarily from Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and white wines made primarily from primarily Grenache blanc, Clairette, Marsanne, Roussanne , Bourboulenc and Viognier. Some of these Côtes du Rhône Villages are called Rhône Crus and make wines under slightly more stringent regulations. Notable villages of this latter designation are Vinsobres, Rasteau, Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Lirac and Tavel.

What does a Rhône wine taste like?

Northern Rhône reds made with Syrah are big, bold, spicy wines with a firm tannic structure in their youth. Depending on the appellation, the wines can be rustic, even meaty, or supremely elegant, often with floral overtones. The best of these wines have very long aging potential.

The Northern Rhône whites based from Viognier are aromatic, full-bodied wines reminiscent of apricot and summer blossom. When aged in oak, they can be supremely creamy. Whites based on Marsanne and Roussanne, either alone or blended, are underrated. They create fascinating table wines due to their herbal aromas, full body and wonderful texture.

Southern Rhône red blends are based mainly on Grenache and have rounded, warm, red fruit flavors. They tend to have elevated alcohol levels and beautiful ripe fruit. The best reds have the earthy-herbal scent of garrigue, local scrub comprised of bay, lavender, rosemary and juniper.

Some of these wines are rustic and inky, while others are lyrical and light. Southern Rhône wines can range from simple, easy summer wines to very complex, oak-aged whites like Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, which are rounded and best enjoyed after a few years of bottle age.

For an idea of how Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre taste in the New World, check our primer on when the same grapes have different names.

Rhône Styles in America & The Rhone Rangers

To New World consumers, Rhône varieties weren’t as easily grasped as more familiar grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Chardonnay. So, a group of winemakers around California’s Central Coast united to form the Rhone Rangers. Led by figures like Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard, Bob Lindquist of Qupé and the Haas Family at Tablas Creek in Paso Robles, they united to promote Rhône varieties. Today, the association is active with chapters in California, Michigan, Virginia and Arizona.

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