Lately, however, an increasing number of Washington winemakers have been turning to white varieties from France’s Rhône Valley with impressive results.

In the last several years, Washington has offered thrilling examples of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Picpoul, Grenache Blanc, Clairette Blanche and even the rarely seen Picardan, as well as blends of these grapes.

“I love white Rhône varieties mostly for their aromatics and their texture,” says Charlie Lybecker, owner and winemaker at Cairdeas Winery in Manson. “You can have a wine that has acidity but is also soft. That’s oftentimes a really hard combination to find.”

Lybecker recently planted the state’s first Picardan.

“With Picardan, you get that crazy acidic brightness of Picpoul, but you also have the nice aromatic qualities of Clairette [Blanche],” he says.

In addition to its exploration of white Rhône varieties, site selection in Washington has improved, with growers planting at higher elevations and in cooler locations. Sean Boyd, owner and winemaker at Rôtie Cellars, gets fruit for his Rhône-style white blends from Walla Walla Valley, an appellation most often known for its reds.

“It’s a little cooler,” says Boyd of the valley. “We’re picking at the end of September, so we have some long hang time but still have good acids.”

With a string of superb vintages, the quality of these paler-tinted wines has also soared in recent years, and Rhône varieties have been leading the way. These wines show texture and richness, but also a distinct acidic snap that has often been missing.

So, are these grapes Washington’s next big blanc thing? Everything mentioned here suggests yes, but current production levels say no. Plantings remain scarce, and many of the best examples don’t travel far beyond the state’s borders.

For now, these wines look to remain an insider secret. But it doesn’t seem a stretch to imagine these varieties might someday define the state’s white wines in the eyes of critics and consumers alike.

Three to Try

Avennia 2018 La Perle (Columbia Valley); $40, 94 points. Roussanne makes up 65% of this wine, with the rest Marsanne. Fruit comes from Sagemoor, stalwart Boushey and, notably newcomer WeatherEye. It is a revelation. Appealing aromas of almond, corn silk, custard, stone fruit and spice lead to a full-bodied richly textured palate, brightened by lively acidity and heightened by a hyperextended finish. It’s a benchmark wine for the state—nothing short of an accomplishment. Editors’ Choice

Gramercy 2019 Picpoul (Walla Walla Valley); $20, 92 points. Aromas of citrus zest, whole lemon and wet stone are followed by medium-bodied tart and puckering white-grapefruit flavors backed by electric acidity. This wine has always been a standout, but this vintage brings more of everything: more aromatic and flavor complexity and even more acidity. It requires food alongside it to be fully appreciated. Pair it with grilled halibut with a lemon oregano sauce. Editors’ Choice

Cairdeas 2019 Marsanne (Yakima Valley); $30, 91 points. Blended with 16% Roussanne from Lawrence Vineyard with the rest of the fruit coming from famed Boushey, this wine was fermented in concrete and then aged in stainless steel and new French oak. The aromas are brooding out of the gate, with notes of lemon balm, almond and crushed rock. The palate is medium bodied and seamless in feel. It brings a whole lot of acidity for this variety. Editors’ Choice

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Northern Rhône whites are a marked contrast to fashionably zingy, linear wines like Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc. These wines are distinctly lower in acidity, with a richness and perfume that can border on flamboyant. They are timeless, if not trendy, wines often overlooked on restaurant menus and store shelves.

Until the 1990s, Viognier was rarely planted anywhere beyond Condrieu. Known for its dizzying perfume and ample, often blowsy, demeanor, it is as lusty and full-throttled as whites come. Cultivated amidst the steep, sunny hills of Condrieu, it yields heady, acacia-scented wines pulsating with flavors of peach and apricot and edged by notes of musk, marzipan and spice.

In Saint-Joseph, as in Hermitage or Crozes-Hermitage, white wines are typically blends of Marsanne and Rousssane. Marsanne is the softer and more zaftig of the two, producing full-bodied wines with a honeyed, oily richness and broad pear and peach flavors. Roussanne is more pert, offering fresh herb notes, delicate floral tones and peppery spice. Fine tannins and higher acidity give Roussanne a bit more edge than Marsanne. When blended, the plushness of Marsanne and elegance of Roussanne are delightfully complementary. Cheers!

François Villard 2017 Le Grand Vallon (Condrieu); $70, 96 points. Wafting of rose petals and peach marmalade, this is the lustiest, most flamboyant white wine imaginable. It’s unabashedly hedonistic, classically Condrieu, and yet invitingly fresh and balanced. It’s a bottling that’s ready now but sure to please beyond 2030. Editors’ Choice.

Jean-Luc Colombo 2017 Amour de Dieu (Condrieu); $90, 94 points. Aromas of toast, vanilla, preserved peach and caramel are heady here, lending flair to orange cream and honey on the palate. It’s rich and unctuous, silky in texture, but fringed by pleasing bitters. A beauty already, it should evolve positively through 2027. Editors’ Choice.

E. Guigal 2015 Ex Voto White (Hermitage); $320, 93 points. Smoke, cedar and vanilla tones are pronounced now, but plenty of succulent white peach, apricot and tangerine pulses at the core of this generous white. Rippling and rich yet freshly balanced, it’s a sturdy bottling built for the long haul. Drink through 2026. Cellar Selection.

M. Chapoutier 2017 Invitare (Condrieu); $70, 93 points. Crisp white grapefruit and tangerine flavors lend an unusually spry charater to this full-bodied but pristine Condrieu. Accented by whispers of vanilla and sweet spice, it’s an alluring, expansive wine but elegant and restrained, not hulking. The finish is marked by a pleasant bite of tea tannins. Best now–2025.

Ferraton Père et Fils 2017 Les Oliviers (Saint-Joseph); $45, 91 points. A blend of equal proportions Marsanne and Roussanne, this intensely mineral white offers zesty lemon and yellow-apple flavors. Made with biodynamic grapes, it’s a juicy, concentrated sip with a thirst-quenching, tangy finish. Enjoy now–2023.

Cave de Tain 2017 Nobles Rives Marsanne (Crozes-Hermitage); $29, 90 points. On first whiff, this full-bodied Marsanne seems a bit quiet, suggesting faint earth and smoke. The palate, however, is ripe and penetrating, bursting with plump white grapefruit and apple. It’s savory yet satisfyingly fruity. The finish is marked by hits of salted nut and tobacco leaf.

Domaine Coursodon 2016 Silice (Saint-Joseph); $45, 90 points. Creamy, concentrated flavors of orange parfait and yellow peach are accented by crisp mineral tones and perfumed apple blossoms in this wine. Made from 100% Marsanne, it’s rich and rounded but maintains a sunny brightness throughout. Enjoy now–2023.

The post This French Region Produces Timeless White Wines appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Cabernet Franc

Cab Franc has never played a starring role in California. That’s too bad, as it can be beautiful in the right hands. There are rumblings of increased interest and attention to it, though. With nearly 1,200 acres planted, Napa is leading the charge. There, it’s often blended into Cabernet Sauvignon to produce violet aromatics and Old World herbaceousness. Look for varietal bottlings with coffee and chocolate balanced by fruit from die-hard Cabernet Franc aficionados Lang & Reed, Crocker & Starr, La Jota, Chappellet, Ashes & Diamonds and Corison. —Virginie Boone 

Roussanne

Controversy over vines labeled incorrectly undercut the rise of this Rhône grape during the 1990s. The less-than 400 acres planted today, mostly on the Central Coast, are all true Roussanne vines imported by Tablas Creek Vineyard and John Alban. If not managed carefully, the grape’s thick skins can lead to wines that are quite ripe, nutty, peachy and oily. But savvy winemakers bottle the lightning before it gets too dense to produce balanced, structured white wines capable of aging for decades. —Matt Kettmann 

Chenin Blanc

Widely planted before Chardonnay took over, this Loire Valley native is now in the midst of a major comeback across the state. From Santa Barbara to Clarksburg, coveted old vines produce high acid juice that can be crafted into apple-forward expressions that range from racy and lean to rich and waxy. Fans include classic producers like Dry Creek Vineyard (every vintage starting in 1972) to a roster of young brands like Roark Wine Company, Leo Steen Wines, Birichino and Haarmeyer Wine Cellars, some of which dabble in sparkling, too. —M.K.

Barbera

In California, this grape is not so much an up-and-comer as it is a down-and-comer. Approximately 32,000 fewer tons the of Italian variety were grown in 2017 than a decade prior, but high quality bottlings are on the rise. Winemakers, especially in the Sierra Foothills and Central Coast, have found a groove with its high-acid and relatively light-bodied wines bursting with cherry and berry flavors. More than 70 wineries will be pouring their versions at this year’s Barbera Festival in Amador County. —Jim Gordon

Carignan

A pre-Prohibition player in “mixed black” field blends, this red Mediterranean grape is a re-emergent chameleon: You never know what the next bottle will bring. There are fresh and herby carbonic expressions, down-the-middle showcases of spicy red fruit and more opulent displays with tobacco leaf and cedar. The excitement should continue, as pockets of very old vines grown across the state lure adventurous vintners to explore diverse terroir. —M.K.

Sémillon

There are fewer than 600 acres of Sémillon in the entire state, 175 acres of which grow in Napa. The white wine grape is native to Bordeaux, where it’s typically blended with Sauvignon Blanc or made into the famous botrytized wine known as Sauternes. In California, however, many producers use the variety for blending, where it adds richness and texture. A scant number of varietal bottlings are produced; those are full-bodied expressions with buttery peach notes. —V.B.

Albariño

Ten years ago, there were so few acres of this Iberian-import grape that it didn’t even show up in reports produced by the state. Now, the same variety that makes lean wines in Spain and Portugal creates more generous, but still finely balanced lime- and apricot-laden bottlings in places like the cool-climate districts of the Central Coast and Carneros. The latest data indicates Albariño currently accounts for 0.1% of the state’s white wine crop, so the variety has plenty of room to grow. —J.G.

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