The Drinker’s Guide to the Columbia River Gorge

Carved by the mighty Columbia River, the 80-mile Columbia River Gorge divides much of the southern edge of Washington State from the northern tip of Oregon. The basalt canyon, which starts near the Deschutes River in the east and ends near Portland in the west, offers some of the most dramatic scenery in the notoriously stunning Pacific Northwest. It’s nearly 4,000 feet deep in some places and offers ample opportunity for sightseeing with cliffside panoramas, lush forest hikes, countless waterfall experiences and (often) stunning views of Mt. Hood and Mt. Adams’s snow-capped peaks.

Obviously, this outdoor paradise offers plenty of nature-based experiences, whether by water or hiking trail. But the Gorge, as it’s come to be known, is also home to an abundance of wineries, cideries and breweries. 

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The region’s first winegrowers arrived in the late 19th-century, but the modern-day wine industry didn’t start to take off until the 1970s and ‘80s. Two decades later, around 2000, a larger number of experimental winemakers began to settle in. “It was a chance to make cooler, edgier wines and explore something new,” James Mantone, cofounder of Syncline Winery told Wine Enthusiast of opening in the small town of Lyle in 1999.

That’s still very much the case today. The Columbia River Gorge is home to some of the most innovative orchards, vineyards and wineries in the United States, producing everything from heat-loving Zinfandel in the area’s warm, dry eastern portion to cool-climate Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir to the west. Also in the mix are rare varietals, like Furmint and Mondeuse, fruited ciders, barrel-aged krieks (i.e. sour cherry lambics) and unusual co-ferments.

No matter the style of wine or type of beverage you prefer, there’s something for everyone in the Columbia River Gorge. From must-visit tasting rooms and restaurants to top hotels, we quizzed in-the-know industry pros about their favorite spots in the area.

Gorge White House

Gorge White House has been an icon in Oregon’s Hood River Valley for decades, inviting guests to explore its 30-plus-acre orchard. Here, you’ll find estate-made ciders featuring fruit grown on the farm, including selections such as raspberry, lemon pear and seasonal watermelon. Grab a flight to try a variety of flavors or sip a glass of wine on its idyllic grass-covered lawn. Wander the grounds to discover u-pick fruit and flowers. “It’s a great casual outdoor spot with many tastes of the Gorge, from beverages to fruit picking,” says Josh Pfriem, founder of pFriem Family Brewers.

Where to Eat: Order lunch or dinner from Gorge White House’s food cart, where chef Jack Kennedy churns out burgers made with local beef and freshly made buns, along with flatbreads featuring cherries, pears, blueberries and more picked straight from the property. 

Hiyu Wine Farm 

According to Drew Marquis, co-founder of Grasslands Barbecue in Hood River, Hiyu Wine Farm is the ultimate immersive experience in the Gorge. Guests are invited to wander among the vines, where cows, chickens and pigs play a role in working the land. “Hiyu is truly in a world of its own,” says Marquis. Expect a wide range of varietals, from Riesling. Furmint and Grüner Veltliner to Hárslevelü, Rotgipfler, Sylvaner and Müller-Thurgau. All wine tasting experiences are coupled with seasonally-inspired small plates, which may range from olive oil-poached, pesto-topped zucchini to caramelized cabbage draped with prosciutto and anchovy butter. Guests can choose to sit at a table that offers panoramic vineyard views through soaring windows or watch the action at the chef’s counter. 

Where to Eat: In Hiyu’s Wine Tavern, discover seasonal dishes such as rhubarb soup and asparagus with salsa verde and squash blossom. Each dish is crafted from ingredients grown or foraged on the farm and paired with estate-grown wines. Thursday through Sunday, the restaurant offers five-course lunches for $150 per person and seven-course dinners for $250 per person with seatings in its farmhouse-tavern-inspired dining room.

 pFriem Family Brewers

Just steps from the Columbia River, pFriem opened on the Hood River waterfront in 2012 and has steadily grown into a staple of the Pacific Northwest beer scene. The brewery offers a vast range of styles, which span lagers, Belgian-inspired beers and offerings from its barrel-aged and sour beer program. “There are literally no bad beers here, but the pro move is to order whatever is on the side-pour tap,” says Marquis. “It’s a special tap traditionally used for Czech pilsners that creates a perfectly creamy and aromatic head and makes their beers somehow even better.”

Where to Eat: Soak up the suds at pFriem’s Tasting Room. The upscale gastropub boasts an unpretentious industrial-meets-modern vibe. Menu items, like a fried chicken sandwich for lunch, jagerschnitzel at dinner and an all-day pimento cheeseburger, are made with locally-sourced ingredients and come with house-made pickles, aiolis, fries and more. 

Ferment Brewing Company

The second brewery located on the Hood River waterfront, Ferment opened in 2018 with plenty of space to grab a drink and a Pacific Northwest-inspired meal. The taproom and expansive deck are located on the second floor above the brewery. Inside, find plenty of natural light pouring in through floor-to-ceiling windows paired with gorgeous Gorge views and an impressive collection of indoor plants. Outside, grab a seat on the deck next to the large fire pit to sip through the lagers, ales and seasonal sours on tap. “With awesome beers, an amazing patio and even better people, we’re so lucky to have Ferment as our neighbors,” says Marquis. “The Hana Pils is our go-to.” He also offers an insider tip: “When it gets super busy, skip the crowds and grab cans to-go from the downstairs corner or beer cart in the lawn and take them down to the river.” 

Where to Eat: Choose from giant pretzels and fried brussels sprouts or falafel and classic burgers at Ferment. Another great option? Head around the corner to Grasslands Barbecue for Texas-ish-style brisket, pulled pork and handmade sausages. Even better, you can grab your order as take-out and bring your food up to the deck to pair with a beer. 

Analemma Wines

Located in Mosier, Oregon, Analemma Wines is a can’t-miss destination for tasting biodynamic wines with a view. “The tasting experience at Analemma is one-of-a-kind,” says Mark Deresta, executive chef at Riverside restaurant in Hood River. “As the Gorge’s only biodynamic winery, Analemma’s wines are fresh, vibrant and made with intention.” Learn about the winery’s regenerative farming practices with an al fresco tasting or book a field tasting to explore the property and learn more about the estate and the vines. “After your tasting, I highly recommend grabbing a bottle and an Analemma housemade picnic and stroll up to the vista to enjoy the view of the Mosier Valley,” Deresta suggests. “The 2021 Blanco, 2021 Mencia and the 2022 Trousseau are highlights of the estate-grown wines.” Reservations are required for this winery, but it is worth the extra planning. 

Where to Eat: Following an afternoon at Analemma, head back to Hood River for dinner at Celilo Restaurant and Bar. Here, you’ll find a dinner menu focused on incorporating the freshest ingredients from nearby growers, along with naturally-raised meats and local specialty cheeses. Grab a spot at the bar to sip on a cocktail paired with an appetizer or sit down at a table to soak in the warm-toned ambiance while enjoying a refined farm-to-table meal. 

Idiot’s Grace Wines

Though Idiot’s Grace grows grapes both on the Oregon and Washington sides of the Columbia River Gorge, its production facility, organic farm and estate vineyards are all located in Mosier. The tucked-away grounds offer a peaceful location for a tasting of six different wines, with the option to order from a small selection of snack plates. Visit for a tasting on the kid and dog-friendly patio with vineyard and orchard views to sip varietals such as Dolcetto, Primitivo (a.k.a. Zinfandel) and Sangiovese, or bring a picnic to enjoy with a bottle. For an extra special experience, Kris Fade, co-founder of Analemma Wines, suggests picking up a bottle of Chenin Blanc or Cabernet Franc to enjoy in the estate pear orchards.

Where to Eat: Riverside, located right on the Columbia in Hood River, serves breakfast, lunch and dinner on what Pfriem says is one of the best patios overlooking the Gorge. Its Pacific Northwest-sourced menu features excellent housemade pastas and other dishes, paired with cocktails, local beer and a well-curated wine list. “Riverside’s wine list is innovative and fun and highlights the local and sustainability values of slow wine,” says Fade. “Though the restaurant’s sweeping views from the heart of wine country are spectacular, its most impressive efforts are in showcasing the food and flavors of the region paired with well-intentioned wines.”

Cor Cellars 

Nestled in Lyle, Washington, Cor Cellars’ tasting room is an architectural gem with a sleek modern farmhouse vibe that embraces the natural color palette of its surroundings. Enjoy a tasting of light-style reds, whites (try the Chardonnay and Tocai Friulano) and sparklers inside by the fireplace, outside in the courtyard or reserve a hillside tasting tent with sweeping Gorge views to pair with a charcuterie board ahead of time for a unique experience. “There’s incredible views, and it’s always staffed with fun locals who know their wine and where to play,” says Pfriem.

Where to Eat: White Salmon Baking Co., on the Washington side of the Gorge, is one of the best known breakfast and lunch spots in the region. It’s hailed for its wood-fired pastries and breads made with locally-sourced ingredients, including natural yeast. “They have the best bottle selection in the Gorge and a great excuse to have wine at lunch as they’re only open until 3 p.m.,” says Marquis. The bakery changed hands after eight years, but around the corner, the former owners opened Soča Wine Shop & Bar, which offers bottles, wine by the glass and small bites.

Where to Stay

The Columbia River Gorge is a large region, but the towns of Hood River, Oregon and White Salmon, Washington offer the easiest access to everything the area has to offer. The following are the best White Salmon and Hood River hotels.

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Sakura Ridge Farm & Lodge

Sakura Ridge is just seven miles out of downtown Hood River, allowing for easy access to explore the Gorge, while offering guests a chance to sleep on a working farm surrounded by pear and apple orchards. Rated “excellent” on TripAdvisor, the rustic-meets-luxury lodge has five different rooms to choose from with thoughtful amenities such as heated bathroom floors, large soaking tubs and private balconies. Take in incredible views of Mt. Hood from the property and wake up to a locally-sourced breakfast provided each morning.

Hood River Hotel

Located in the heart of downtown Hood River, this place beams with historic charm. The building was erected in the early 1900s but has been updated to preserve the integrity of the property. Each room maintains a funky vintage vibe with comfortable amenities, like plush king beds, in-room turntables and cozy seating, sharing the stories of past settlers and travelers in the Hood River Valley. Grab a beer or cider to sip by the fireplace in the lobby, walk to nearby tasting rooms and the waterfront and grab breakfast at Broder Øst next door.

The Society Hotel

Located on the Washington side of the Gorge, just a few blocks up from the river, the Society Hotel in Bingen offers accommodations for every type of traveler. The former schoolhouse offers rustic charm with a modern twist in its standard rooms, modern cabins and hostel-style bunkroom. The communal-feeling property offers hammocks and fire pits outside, a lobby cafe that sells lattes and beer and, at the center of it all, an enviable bathhouse with a saltwater soaking pool and sauna. 

RubyJune Inn

RubyJune Inn, which is a few miles north of White Salmon, is home to six luxury rooms, each with a different design. One offers a small deck with a view of the property’s lush courtyard, while another boasts a four-poster bed and a jacuzzi soaking tub. Wander the stunning landscaped grounds, listen to the sounds of the White Salmon River and enjoy a breakfast consisting of items such as freshly baked local pastries, yogurt, berries and locally-made granola and eggs prepared each morning. Guests staying during summer can take part in the Chef’s Collective Dinner Series with multi-course dinners and wine pairings featuring local chefs.

Published: April 4, 2024