“Cannabis is very nuanced and complicated,” says Derek Gilman, managing director of Ganjier. The Ganjier program, in short, is the weed world’s answer to the sommelier—industry experts who’ve gone through training to guide consumers in finding the right herb for them.

“The inspiration behind creating and developing the systematic assessment protocol (SAP) comes from different epicurean-based industries,” explains Gilman, pointing toward the Court of Master Sommeliers, the Ciceron Certification Program and, of course, the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET). “We looked at these programs and tried to find where the similarities are in cannabis.”

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The SAP scale assesses appearance, aroma, flavor and experience in order to determine the quality of cannabis and is specific to inhalables—whether flower or concentrates.

It’s the “experience” portion that greatly differs from any kind of wine assessment. “We break up the experience between mental and physical,” explains Gilman. “Within those two areas we break it down further to identify if the experience was stimulating, relaxing or balanced between the two. Or was there some kind of negative effect? For example, anxiety, headaches or sore throat.” Beyond mental and physical, Ganjiers also assess onset—how long does it take before one begins to feel those effects—as well as the intensity and longevity of those effects.

The Ganjiers doing the scoring are folks who have gone through the education system—in which the final exam does, indeed, include a “tasting portion.” Importantly, they all assess products in their local markets, since shipping cannabis across state lines is still not allowed.

In terms of final scores, they range much like Wine Enthusiast’s very own 100-point scale—the closer to 100, the higher the recommendation from the industry pros. Anything below a 75 is “not recommended.” Scores can be accessed via an app and, Gilman says, are frequently utilized by Ganjiers in all sectors of the weed industry—from retail to distribution and even the farmers themselves to see how their crop fares amongst the growing competition.

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Next in the works: “There’s a potential for vintages with cannabis concentrates, traditional hashish,” says Gilman, explaining that, over time, the expression of cannabis flower can actually evolve—sometimes for the better. “This is an area that’s gaining more traction.” And for Californians, the Department of Food and Agriculture is now looking into the effects of terroir and appellation on different flowers. So, your next roll might just have the equivalent of an AVA designation on the package.

This article originally appeared in the June/July 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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Though established in 1983, the AVA’s boundaries were redrawn in 2013 as other adjacent AVAs were established: The Upper Mississippi Valley AVA (established in 2009) ultimately replaced the Ohio River Valley as the largest AVA in the U.S., making it the second largest.

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Its vast size makes for a great diversity of soils and unique mix of climates, from humid subtropical influences to cooler continental areas, allowing for a wide range of grapes to be grown within its borders. Both hybrids and common vinifera varieties are grown: Prominent hybrid varieties include Marechal Foch, Baco Noir, Seyval Blanc and Vidal; vinifera that thrive well include Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Riesling. Wines are produced in a range of styles, and the region is particularly known for high quality late harvest and ice wines.

Mark Zdobinski is one of the owners, as well as the winemaker and production manager, at Olde Schoolhouse Vineyard & Winery in Eaton, Ohio, which produces a staggering 35 different wines, utilizing grapes from its estate vineyard as well as fruit purchased from both the East and West Coasts. He champions the diversity on offer for his customers. Sweet wines are very popular, he says; however, Zdobinski also produces 13 dry wines and a number of semisweet expressions. His portfolio also includes contrasting Cabernet Francs—one made with Washington State fruit and one with Ohio fruit, so customers can experience the difference in terroir in side-by-side tastings.

Donna Clark, co-owner of Old Mason Winery & Vineyard Inc., in West Milton, Ohio, echoes this focus on diversity. “We have approximately nine acres of vineyard planted,” Clark says. “We try to produce wine that will please all palates.” Old Mason’s vineyards are planted with cold-hardy grape varieties, including La Crescent, Marquette, Frontenac, Frontenac Gris, Cayuga and Petite Pearl.

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The Ohio River Valley is not without its viticultural challenges. The spotted lantern fly has come to the region from Pennsylvania. The invasive pest is known for devastating vineyards by spreading vine maladies such as Pierce’s Disease. Furthermore, many vineyards are adjacent to large, conventionally farmed agricultural businesses (often for corn or beans), and chemical overspray can be an issue. The state’s Department of Agriculture, as well as various industry organizations, have struggled to come up with possible solutions.

Despite these challenges, this is a wine region that is growing. Clark and her team have plans to expand the Old Mason vineyard, and there are many pending new wineries. Zdobinski emphasizes the local industry’s commitment to enhancing the region’s reputation, commenting, “I want to put a new benchmark in Ohio [and] show people that Ohio can make good wine. We stand for quality here.”

Quick Facts

• Date AVA Established: September 7, 1983; further amended in 1987 and 2013
• Total Size: 24,900 square miles (15.9 million acres)
• Most Planted Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Seyval Blanc, Vidal, Zinfandel
• Climate: Warm, humid-subtropical in southern regions; cool continental in northern regions
• Number of Wineries: 13
• Fun Fact: The Ohio River Valley AVA is often considered the birthplace of American viticulture, with Nicholas Longworth planting grapes in the early 1800s

This article originally appeared in the June/July 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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Basil Smash Recipe

Adapted from Steve the Bartender’s Cocktail Guide, by Steven Roennfeldt (DK Publishing, 2022)

Instructions

In a cocktail shaker, gently muddle the basil leaves. Add remaining ingredients and ice. Shake for 10 to 12 seconds, then double strain over fresh ice into an Old-Fashioned glass. Garnish with a generously leafy basil sprig.

*If possible, opt for a gin with savory tones. Holland’s Rutte Celery Gin is Meyer’s preferred pick (you can also try Gray Whale Gin or Gin Mare). Alternatively, add a couple of dashes of celery bitters to the shaker.

This article originally appeared in the June/July 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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If you don’t know very much about Steiner himself, you are not alone. In the annals of history, few figures stand as complex and enigmatic as Rudolf Steiner. Born in 1861 in the Austrian Empire (in a town that is now part of Croatia), Steiner was a polymath whose influence extended far beyond the conventional boundaries of academia and philosophy. His insight into spirituality and connecting it with science created a legacy that continues to reverberate.

“He was very valuable, especially for our times because we have become very technical,” says Karl Schnabel, proprietor of Weingut Karl Schnabel—Ermihof in the Austrian region of Styria. “Life and nature cannot always be solved in a technical way.”

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Since childhood, an insatiable hunger for knowledge seemed to drive Steiner. He studied at the Vienna University of Technology, where he immersed himself in many different subjects, including the natural sciences, mathematics and philosophy. However, later in life he drew inspiration from the works of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe that led him down new paths. The idea that there is no limit to human knowledge, alongside Goethe’s holistic approach to science and art, inspired Steiner to explore the synthesis of the physical and spiritual realms.

He developed his own unique system of thought, which he called Anthroposophy—a term derived from the Greek words for “human” and “wisdom.” Central to this philosophy was the belief in the inherent spiritual nature of humanity and the cosmos. This perspective formed the basis of his approach to education, medicine, agriculture and the arts, which he saw as avenues for nurturing and expressing the human spirit.

“This is the ancient knowledge that was present in the past but has been lost with industrial developments,” says Eduard Tscheppe, who runs the Gut Oggau winery in Austria’s Burgenland with his wife, Stephanie Tscheppe-Eselböck. “Before people would come into the room and analyze by energy and spirit, but nowadays they analyze by what they see.”

New Schools

Steiner’s insights led to the development of Waldorf education—a holistic approach that seeks to cultivate a child’s intellectual, emotional and spiritual dimensions. Waldorf schools, which now exist on every continent, emphasize creative, experiential learning and aim to foster a deep reverence for the natural world. One such school was founded in Austria by Meinklang, the country’s largest biodynamic farm and winery. The farm’s proprietor, Werner Michlits, sees the school as “a rich source for the future.”

Steiner’s influence extended to the field of agriculture, where he developed the principles of biodynamic farming—a method that seeks to work in harmony with the spiritual forces inherent in nature. The jubilee that Demeter celebrates this year marks 100 years since Steiner gave eight lectures at the request of farmers who were becoming wary of the increasing use of artificial fertilizers and chemical sprays in agriculture. The basis of his teachings, which involve practices such as crop rotation, composting and the use of herbal preparations, have gained traction in the last decade or two as a more sustainable alternative to conventional farming methods.

“I fell in love with his approach because he is the only one who brings the human being into the center,” says Werner Michlits. “He realized that society had developed into materialism and that humans started to lose connection with nature.”

Throughout his life, Steiner remained prolific, delivering thousands of lectures and writing hundreds of books and essays. His influence has reached all corners of the world, but it might be strongest among his highly environmentally conscious contemporary compatriots.

Whatever Works

Austria is a leader in organic and biodynamic viticulture, with more than 3% of its total vineyard area certified biodynamic and 22% certified as organic (15% of those organic vineyards are farmed biodynamically). This commitment to sustainable farming practices is further underscored by the presence of Respekt-Biodyn, another esteemed organization dedicated to certifying biodynamic viticulture, headquartered in Austria.

“Austrians are eager and open-minded, and it’s a smaller-scale wine country where many winegrowers strive for high quality,” Eduard Tscheppe explains. “I think in the future, wise growers will convert because to get the terroir expression, the biodynamic approach is the most energetic, and nobody needs to doubt that it works anymore because it’s been proven in practice, even in tricky vintages.”

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Austria is also home to one of the oldest biodynamic wineries in the world, Nikolaihof, in Wachau. The estate transitioned to biodynamic farming practices in 1971 under the guidance of its owners, the Saahs family.

“A friend of my husband was an anthroposophic doctor, and for our wedding she gifted us Maria Thun’s biodynamic calendar,” says Christine Saahs of the winery’s beginnings with biodynamics. “She spoke slowly about Steiner, and today, for us, it is very clear that everything is true, and for the future, this the only way to feed the world with healthy food.”

Steiner’s works continue to inspire and challenge readers to this day, but also raise questions and controversies about his teachings. One of the main criticisms of his claims is the lack of empirical evidence.

“He was a clairvoyant, not a scientist—and didn’t do experiments,” says Karl Schnabel. Eduard Tscheppe adds that Steiner was encouraging farmers to go out there and try for themselves. “Everything I’ve read always says that you have to adapt the system to your potential and the demand of your fields and animals,” he says.

Another major criticism of Steiner is allegations of racism. Some of Steiner’s writings contain passages that have been interpreted as racially discriminatory. His followers say that he would always look at the spirit behind the person; therefore, race was irrelevant for him. They would further argue that his views were taken out of context or reflect the prevailing attitudes of his time rather than explicit racism. However, critics point to statements he made about racial and ethnic characteristics and racial hierarchy, stating that certain races are more spiritually advanced, which is undoubtedly problematic.

When Rudolf Steiner passed away in 1925, he left behind a rich and diverse (and not uncomplicated) legacy. Equal parts inspiring, enigmatic and controversial, Steiner and his philosophies continue to be a subject of fascination and debate. However, in an age marked by materialism, technological advancement and increasing detachment, Steiner’s teachings offer a timely reminder of the importance of cultivating the human spirit. And when it comes to farming, they remind us to nurture the connections that bind us to nature.

This article originally appeared in the June/July 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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“Really, it’s almost magical,” Capo continues. “It can be grown in warm inland valleys, or on cool and windy coastal hillsides. Winemakers can block the malolactic fermentation to keep the acids brighter or stir the lees to develop creaminess. Oak, stainless, concrete egg—there are just so many options.”

On the whole, California Chard offers an “enticing balance of mouthwatering freshness with abundant flavor,” adds Writer-at-Large Elaine Chukan Brown, who reviews wines from Napa. “The combination can be so satisfying, and I’m excited to see it becoming more and more common in these wines.”

But despite Chardonnay’s ascendance in California, there are still under-the-radar bottlings to be found. “The Santa Cruz Mountains remain somewhat of a Chardonnay gem hiding in plain sight, surrounded by the millions of people in Silicon Valley and the greater Bay Area who live less than an hour away,” notes Writer-at-Large Matt Kettmann, who reviews wines from California.

He points to Storrs Winery, a veteran of the region with 35 vintages in bottle, which consistently offers wines with ample fruit and salty minerality. A newer property, Mindego Ridge, has vines planted just 15 years ago, “but its mountainside site, surrounded by redwoods and constantly chilled by the Pacific influence, shows a stunning citrus purity.”

In other words, California Chardonnay is an exciting category worth exploring. These top-reviewed bottles, selected by our Tasting Department, are a great place to start.

“Maybe you love it when it’s fresh, citrus-scented and floral, or decadent and rich, or somewhere in the middle,” Capo says. “No matter your preference, there’s a Chard for every palate.”

Alpha Omega 2021 Toyon Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros-Napa Valley)

Toasted and buttered baguette aromas waft from the glass as this creamy-textured yet lively wine brings poached pears, candied pineapple, vanilla and white pepper nuances to the palate. Complex and layered, the wine beautifully matches richness with finesse. Best 2025–2032. 97 Points  — Jim Gordon

$160 Alpha Omega Winery

Sangiacomo 2022 Four Siblings Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast)

The captivating nose of this wine expresses aromas of Anjou pear, honeycomb, marzipan and white flower. On the palate, a kaleidoscope of fresh Golden Delicious apple, pear and Rainier cherry flavors come with a subtle kiss of fresh sage and thyme. A very long finish dances between plush acidity and aromatic intensity. Editor’s Choice. 96 Points  — Tom Capo

$70 Sangiacomo Wines

Storrs 2021 Christie Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains)

The delicate yet intensely mineral nose of this bottling pairs a chalky base with blanched almond, lime peel and grapefruit zest aromas. The palate is zippy and firm, showing a yuzu-driven acidity alongside the unique kick of white pepper as it sails across the palate. 96 Points  — Matt Kettmann

$29 K&L Wines

Three Sticks 2022 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast)

Bright, focused apple and lemon aromas anchor the nose of this Chardonnay. The palate is clean and lively, displaying flavors of Honeycrisp apple, with tangerine and lemon winding up the intensity. A long, complex and mouthwatering finish comes in a framework of beautifully integrated French oak. Cellar Selection. 96 Points  — T.C.

$59 Wine.com

Flowers 2022 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast)

This native-yeast-fermented Chardonnay is a swirl of golden sunshine in the glass, with aromas of tangy tangerine, orange blossom and sweet cinnamon on the nose. Bright and balanced, the palate has lovely precision and freshness. Enjoy now–2040. Cellar Selection. 95 Points  — T.C.

$45 Wine.com

Auteur Wines 2022 Green Acres Chardonnay (Carneros)

Freshly linen, orange blossom, zested lemon, and nectarine aromas swirl from the glass of this vibrant and acid-driven Chardonnay. The palate is flush with pineapple and green apple freshness while extended sur-lie ageing with bâtonnage brings texture. Lovers of Chablis and Puligny-Montrachet will be entranced by this style. Editor’s Choice. 95 Points  — T.C.

$65 Auteur Wines

Dutton-Goldfield 2021 Dutton Ranch Walker Hill Vineyard Chardonnay

This elegant wine from Dan Goldfield smells subtle and spicy, tastes creamy and complex and feels bracing and light in texture. The harmony among fresh, crisp apples and pears, light toast and butter nuances and restrained oak toastiness is superb. Editor’s Choice. 96 Points  — J.G.

$55 Dutton-Goldfield

Mindego Ridge 2021 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains)

This bottling begins with a fantastically dynamic nose, offering shiso, lemongrass, water chestnut and white flower aromas on a tightly woven frame. The palate pops with a minty sense of yuzu and more lemongrass, leaving a sensation in the mouth as flavors of crisp, white-fleshed fruit shine. 96 Points  — M.K.

$48 Mindego Ridge

Cuvaison 2021 Small Lot Hedon Estate Chardonnay (Carneros-Napa Valley)

A classic reserve-style wine, this poached pear and butterscotch-scented beauty reveals toasted almonds, peach nectar, honey and vanilla flavors that expand with each sip and linger nicely on the finish. The wine shows excellent concentration, layering and length. Pair it with filet of sole sauteed in butter. Editor’s Choice. 96 Points  — J.G.

$70 Cuvaison

A truncated version of this list originally appeared in the June/July 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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Sotol carries a variety of similar properties to mezcal. From its distinct smoky flavor to its Mexican agave-like plant origin, the resemblance is almost uncanny. Even making sotol “is a process very, very similar to that of mezcal,” says Wendy Eisenberg, cofounder of Casa Lotos Sotol. “The plant is harvested, the heads are cooked over a fire in an underground pit, which provides this very smoky flavor. The plant is then fermented in wooden vats, traditionally, and distilled in either copper or stainless-steel pot stills.”

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But sotol doesn’t come from agave, it comes from the Dasylirion wheeleri, a.k.a. the desert spoon, which, like agave, is part of the same botanical family as the asparagus plant. It grows in the northern deserts of Mexico (not the southern)—primarily in Chihuahua, Durango and Coahuila—and in the Southwestern United States.

But sotol carries some distinct advantages: “Unlike agave, which you can harvest once and then it dies, the dasylirion plant, if you harvest it carefully, you can get several harvests throughout the plant’s life,” says Eisenberg.

So why hasn’t sotol caught on like mezcal or tequila? It’s a question with answers found across the spirit’s history.

“The plant was being used by the people who are native to this land for thousands of years,” explains Juan Pablo Carvajal, cofounder of Los Magos Sotol. On top of using it to make baskets and for sustenance, “They would ferment it for use in ritualistic purposes,” he adds. “They would have this brewed beer of sotol that they would use in celebrations. When the copper still was introduced to this territory, that use was already there. So, the easy thing was to take that fermented sotol, put it into the still, make a spirit. And that was when it started to become the spirit that we know today.” That was about 300 years ago.

However, everything went south around 100 years ago. “When Prohibition was happening in the States, we did something that we are known to do very well: contraband,” continues Carvajal. “We took our sotol to the border, and people like Al Capone were coming down to Juarez to buy sotol and corn whiskey that we were making down here. Because of that, the industry grew. And with that growth, a reputation for illegality and clandestine bootlegging grew with it.

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“So, what happened? The Mexican government and the Chihuahua government got together and persecuted a lot of the sotoleros. They prohibited the production and just distribution of sotol. The army would go to where the distilleries were and destroy the stills—some of the sotoleros were even killed. This legal prohibition lasted from the ’20s into the ’30s, but then there were actually a lot of de facto prohibitions. You couldn’t transport sotol, no permits were given for its production. From then until the late ’80s that was the rule. So sotol was still regarded as a very illegal moonshine type of thing.”

While sotol has been making inroads in the U.S. for a while now, there are a few brands that have established themselves. Some to look for: Los Magos fully grasps the history and place of sotol and wants to play a role in its future. Casa Lotos, crafted by fourth-generation master distillers the Ruelas family, makes their sotol in an aboveground brick oven, taking away some of the smokiness. Hacienda de Chihuahua makes nine different sotol-related products, from the base plata to an añejo to a creamy chocolate variety. Desert Door hails from West Texas and focuses on the herbaceous sweet - ness of sotol, but while it is one of the easier bottles to get your hands on, it’s not without controversy as the spirit has a protected domain of origin in northern Mexico (which dictates labeled sotol can only come from Chihuahua, Coahuila and Durango). Any of these would make an excellent entre to sotol if you see them on shelves.

Mix It Up

Like tequila and mezcal, sotol’s versatility is one of its best qualities. Due to its natural herbal sweetness and smokiness (in most cases), it can be enjoyed on its own, with a single mixer or in a cocktail. Those who prefer to keep things simple can opt for it neat or on the rocks, while the most popular pour these days tends to be in the direction of Ranch Water: sotol, sparkling water, lime and salt.

And for those looking to take it behind the bar, bar and brand consultant and all-around cocktail aficionado Karl Steuck simply affirms, “Love it.” He notes that it’s particularly good in a Blanco Negroni as well as in his Toca Mi Timbre.

Toca Mi Timbre

Ingredients

• 1 ½ ounces sotol
• ½ ounce Faccia Brutto Apertivo
• 2 ounces oro blanco grapefruit
• ½ ounce lime juice
• ½ ounce serrano syrup (1:1 simple with chili heat)
• CR Citrus smoked dehydrated lime
• Black lava sea salt

Instructions

Combine all ingredients in a shaker. Fill with ice. Shake vigorously to combine and pour over one large ice cube. Garnish with smoked dehydrated lime and a pinch of black lava sea salt sprinkled over top.

This article originally appeared in the June/July 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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The California Issue

Featured Stories

Wine

In California, Red Wine Producers Embrace a Nonvintage Model

Wine

In California’s Greenest AVA, Regenerative Farming Is a Family Business

Spirits

Welcome to Mezcalifornia: Inside California’s Agave Boom

Letter from the Publisher

All the Difference

How I found out what doing the right thing tasted like.

I remember it well. The first time I tried wine made with regeneratively grown grapes side-by-side with one called simply “sustainable” was at Robert Hall Winery back in 2022. It was a hot August day—as all August days seem to be in Paso Robles—beautiful but sizzling. The team served two versions of the same Cabernet Sauvignon made from vines only a few rows apart, planted just yards from where we sat.

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There were some flavor components in the glass that were slightly improved. Specifically, the regeneratively grown Cab had a more complex texture than its sustainable sibling. However, that wasn’t what I took away from the tasting. I took away the feeling that within this glass lay the solution to saving the world.

Well, I take that back, maybe not the whole world but certainly massive progress for the wine world. This experience was on the heels of visiting Tablas Creek, another icon in the regenerative organic viticulture movement. That trip to Paso was so eye-opening I haven’t stopped thinking about it since. I felt fully converted to the new regenerative lexicon of cover crop, no-till and fleece-covered lawnmowers (i.e. sheep). This epiphany is the exact sentiment currently cascading over the entire industry, and California is leading the charge. It doesn’t hurt that younger consumers have told us time and time again that these environmental efforts are values that resonate with them. Of course, they do. The next generation will be left holding the bag, so to speak, based on how we treat the Earth now.

At Wine Enthusiast, this sentiment has flowed into our hearts as well. We’re extremely proud to officially become a Certified B Corporation this year, so we can practice what many of our wine partners preach—purpose balanced with profit. We may not have any sheep or bees on our staff, but we sure do love a good glass of wine that does some good for the world.

For, what would a soup dumpling be without a bracingly acidic Riesling? Or a delightfully greasy slice without Lambrusco? Or a Penicillin served up without suspenders? Because if they make it here—food and drink that is—that doesn’t mean they can make it anywhere. There can only be one New York City.

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Explore More From This Issue

Wine

This Winemaker’s Trellis Innovation Sequesters Carbon—and Produces Twice the Amount of Grapes

Chardonnay Ratings

In California, ‘Almost Magical’ Chardonnay Offers a Balance of Freshness and Flavor

Spirits

Is Sotol the Next Mezcal?

Wine

Understanding Rudolf Steiner, the Man Who Invented Biodynamics

Cocktail Recipes

This Gin Basil Smash Is Simply Smashing 

Culture

Canna-Curious? There’s a 100-Point Scale for That 

Region Rundown

Inside the Ohio River Valley AVA, One of America’s Oldest Growing Regions

Coming Soon

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The post The California Issue – June/July 2024 appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

It’s still early days for “Mezcalifornia,” as some have jokingly dubbed the state’s burgeoning agave industry. Agave spirits produced outside Mexico can’t legally be called mezcal or tequila. But already, small batches of California-made distillate show glimmers of promise, with wild, far-ranging floral, vegetal, smoky or mineral flavors reminiscent of mezcal.

Right now, it’s challenging to get your hands on a bottle. But eventually, California agave will be coming your way.

If it weren’t for climate change, there might not be a Mezcalifornia.

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“We’re desperate for water out here,” says Alec Wasson, executive director of the California Agave Council, a trade organization of growers and distillers. “Over the last 20 years, it’s been trending less and less water. That’s how we got into agave.”

Some growers have turned to drought-resistant agave to supplement or replace crops that require lots of water; others are using the succulents as a firebreak, as increased wildfires have threatened the state’s agriculture.

Of course, California isn’t the only U.S. state working with agave: Texas, Arizona and New Mexico, among others, are also working with the plants, and other countries around the world are growing agave, too. But California is clearly at the forefront, in large part due to the work of dogged visionary Craig Reynolds, president and founding director of the California Agave Council.

Three decades of work in the California legislature (including a 14-year stint as chief of staff for now-retired senator Lois Wolk) prepared him well to navigate gnarly regulations in agriculture and beverage alcohol. Further, he and his wife were longtime volunteers with Project Amigo, traveling regularly to Colima, Mexico, to work with the non-profit, which supports educational opportunities for local children. A fundraiser selling tequila bottles to support the organization led to Reynolds trying his hand growing agave and bottling an agave spirit.

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That journey led him back to California, where he saw the potential for drought-resistant agave to supplement crops across the state. Along the way, he’s joined with other pioneers who see the possibility of creating a homegrown agave spirit.

Of course, America’s seemingly unquenchable thirst for agave suggests plenty of demand for the spirit, whatever it ends up being named. Between 2003 and 2023, tequila and mezcal volume grew 294%, or about 7.1% yearly growth on average, according to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States.

“It’s ultimately irrelevant what you call it,” says Reynolds. “We want our agave to be its own thing.”

Agave Plants in Wine Country

While the movement started up north in Yolo County, it has since radiated all across the state.

“It feels like you’re in a different world,” Wasson says. “You’re not used to seeing this in California. Everywhere you look, there’s pointy agaves.”

For many would-be growers and distillers, the first question is which of the 200-plus types of agave will work best, depending on variables like elevation, soil types and climate. “Agaves are durable, but frost is an issue,” Wasson notes. In Mexico, the huge, green-gray blue weber (Weber Azul or Agave tequilana) is the only variety approved to make tequila—and some Californian growers are planting blue weber here. But many seek to make their mark with different varieties.

For example, at Stargazer Spirits in Glen Ellen, cofounders Laurie and Adam Goldberg cultivate more than 30 agave types in the bowl of an extinct volcano, in Sonoma’s Moon Mountain AVA. After a long career working in craft beer import and distribution, the couple finally purchased their own farmland in Sonoma County.

“As we looked to what was going on with climate change and the drought in California, it seemed like a good idea,” Laurie recalls. (Of note, agave requires about a quarter of the water that wine grapes do, they estimate.) They started by planting 1.5 acres; over three years, that has grown to six, and they’re hoping to expand that to a total of 80 acres.

Today, they’re keeping an eye on which agaves thrive best, with plans to winnow that to about 15 varieties. So far espadín— a key variety used to make mezcal—has been a bust, they say, while salmiana has thrived, offering “really beautiful bell pepper and jalapeño flavor.”

“There are hundreds of varieties of agave that can be distilled,” Adam says. “And they taste very different, like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay taste different. And the same plant grown in three different places will taste differently.”

And while grapevines mature in a season, agave plants stay in place for about seven years, the hearts buried firmly underground. “They really extract from the soil,” he says. “Agave is reflective of the soil and the place, even more so than grapes.”

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From Almonds to Agave

Similarly, Stuart Woolf works with a dozen different agave varieties, purchased in Mexico and transplanted to the U.S. His Fresno County-based Woolf Farming company is known for tomatoes, almonds and other crops—but drought concerns drove him to found California Agave Growers, which focuses on providing agave nursery stock to distillers and others in the state.

“Agave represents a glimmer of hope that we can help keep these lands and keep the water flowing,” Woolf says. “We’re vertically integrated: We grow tomatoes and process them. We grow almonds, and we process them. My vision is: Could we one day have estate-processed agave in California?”

Ultimately, he’d like to produce a distillate featuring blend of agaves that would be unique to the state—an “ensamble,” in mezcal-speak.

“Talking to other growers and craft distillers here in California, people aren’t looking to do a knock-off of tequila’s legacy or mezcal,” he posits. “We’re looking to create something a little different.”

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It's Like Caddyshack

Meanwhile, the state’s agave farmers are grappling with how to grow agave in conditions that may be very different from those in Mexico. It’s not easy—although sometimes growers find humor in the situation.

Among the key issues: differing climates and soil means differing pests. “They don’t have gophers in Mexico, at least not like they have here,” Woolf complains. “Gophers love agave! It’s our number one pest. It’s a sweet plant, there’s sugars in it, and gophers will eat the entire bulb underground and the whole plant just lays down.”

At agave symposiums, the gopher problem is often the first question posed by growers. Some set gopher traps; others encourage owls to prey on the burrowing rodents.

“It’s like Caddyshack,” Woolf says, half-joking. “My son is out in the field throwing smoke bombs into the gopher holes.”

Door-to-Door Service

Perhaps the most intriguing business model is that of Gian Nelson of Jano (pronounced “HA-no”) Spirits: while he waits multiple years for his agave plants to ripen, he has found a creative workaround to find fully matured plants to harvest and distill.

“We’ve taken to knocking on people’s doors,” he explains, approaching properties and even residential homes where fully grown plants are visible, often as decorative landscaping. “When we see Agave americanas we’ll knock on their door and start a conversation and harvest their agaves. There are plenty of ranches with them roaming free on their property. We’ve become a door-to-door service. We take the pups off the mother agaves.”

When possible, he also works with farmers on small-batch bottlings.

“Our first two batches, we were lucky enough to get to know Henry Garcia, our first Agave americana farmer,” Nelson says. “He and his father were growing these agaves to make pulque, a kind of agave wine. Unfortunately, his father passed away. I got to know him. We’re both ex-Marines, both of Mexican descent. We made our first batch with him.”

Committing to pursing a local expression, the agave was fermented with native yeast from the property and cooked in an earthen underground pit for 5–6 days, using local wood for the fire, similar to the way ancestral mezcal is made. After distillation in copper pots, the spirit was proofed with well water, also from the property. “In that way, you can really capture the land and the people who grow these plants,” Nelson explains. The finished spirit had a citrusy profile, with a bit of smokiness from the cooking process and a vegetal, jalapeño-like bite.

“There’s a lot of complexity to it,” Nelson says. “The highest compliment we ever got was, ‘Oh, this isn’t mezcal?’”

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The Wild West

Compared to Mexico, which has centuries of well-honed traditions, California’s fledgling distilleries are still figuring out how it’s all going to work. Some steam agaves, akin to tequila; others cook them in a pit, akin to mezcal or raicilla; still others are jerry-rigging stills typically used to make whiskey or vodka.

“We’re trying to blaze our own trail when it comes to processes,” Nelson says. “I think of our ancestors, the gold mining pioneers. They had to figure it all out, there was no mining industry. We don’t have tahonas [stone wheels to crush agave] or hornos [ovens to cook agave]. We have to figure it out. We’ve had enough harvests under our belt, we have a pretty good foundation for what we have to do. And we’re refining it every time we have to do it.”

While many have relied on consultation with legacy distillers and growers in Mexico, plenty of others relish the excitement of going their own way.

“There’s a cool freedom that comes from being outside the rules of tequila and mezcal,” Adam Goldberg says. “Because we don’t have the rules that dictate how our spirits need to be produced, how the agave needs to be registered and grown…we’ll see different styles and production methods you wouldn’t see in Mexico.”

Of course, that doesn’t mean that California agave is completely freewheeling. In 2022, Governor Gavin Newsom signed into law legislation requiring that “California agave spirits” can only be made from California-grown agave, and that they cannot contain any flavor or coloring additives.

But the biggest challenge of all? Growers, distillers and agave enthusiasts alike are eager to see more bottlings come to market, and demand still outpaces supply.

“It’s so new, as soon as one of the distilleries comes out with a new batch, it sells out so quickly,” Wasson says. “People are gobbling it up, they’re so hungry to try it.”

But that scarcity won’t last forever, proponents promise.

“Right now, the biggest restriction in California is the limited availability of agaves,” laments Nelson, who is literally knocking on doors of ranchers and homeowners to harvest their plants. “But there will be more agaves, and that will open the door to other distillers that want to put their efforts in and make agave spirit.”

“A lot of great things will happen,” Nelson predicts. “It’s like the wild West. We just can’t wait to get there.”

With typical California hubris, Wasson even name-checks the Judgment of Paris in 1976, the infamous moment when a California wine bested a French favorite in competition. “I look back at my history, [when people were told] no one can make world-class wine in California; no one goes to California to drink wine,” he says.

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California Agave to Try

Made in very small batches, it’s still very difficult to get California agave spirits, especially out of state. But if you’re eager sip some, here are the ones to hunt down:

This article originally appeared in the June/July 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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The post Welcome to Mezcalifornia: Inside California’s Agave Boom appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Working with his dad beginning in 1968 at Jack Neal & Son Vineyard Management, which he now owns, Neal pioneered or popularized practices that have become standard in Napa Valley and beyond: night harvesting, dual driplines for irrigation and converting vineyards to certified organic and certified biodynamic status. In late 2022, his Howell Mountain estate winery, Neal Family Vineyards, became the first in Napa Valley to become certified by the Regenerative Organic Alliance.

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Neal and his 420 employees manage the most CCOF-Certified acres in Napa Valley and claim the largest biodynamic farming operation in the United States. He has worked quietly over the decades, not looking for public credit for his accomplishments. However, one of his innovations is starting to make some noise. It’s an unusual vineyard layout and trellis system that’s been hiding in plain sight since he implemented it in 1997 on a quiet side road in the Rutherford AVA. The 18-acre property on Mee Lane is named Rutherford Dust Vineyard and includes 16 acres growing on a dual trellis that is rare if not unique in the world.

No Half Measures

Last fall at harvest time, the wide-spaced vine rows here on the land where he was raised appeared simply tall and bushy. Looking closer, especially after veraison when red wine grapes turn their dark color and white wine grapes turn golden, the unusual nature of Neal’s setup became clear. Red grapes and white grapes occupy the same trellis, but with the red ones on top and the white ones below.

Neal planted a white-wine vine in between each red-wine vine, so that the trunks alternate. The red vines, in this case, Cabernet Sauvignon, are trained up high where they get lots of sun, and the white vines, Sauvignon Blanc in some blocks and Vermentino in others, are trained on low wires in the dappled shade below.

This dual-trellis vineyard yields twice the tonnage of grapes that the land used to, and with similar high quality, Neal says, yet the cost of farming both together is only less than 50% more. With the Cabernet Sauvignon leaves on top shading the white grapes below from sunburn, it’s possible to create a relatively cool environment in this warm appellation. Neal remembers drinking white wines grown in Rutherford when he was young, but now the district is virtually all red. This is a way to make whites feasible again in the mid-valley in a changing climate riddled with heat spikes, wildfires and drought, he says.

Laura May Everett was inspired for similar reasons to grow white grapes in Martha’s Vineyard, her 32-acre property on the western side of Oakville, Napa Valley. Long renowned for its Cabernet Sauvignon, the property included seven acres of Riesling made into wine by Heitz Cellar when she was growing up there. This section was long ago converted to Cabernet Sauvignon, but the vines have been overly vigorous, so this year she is having Neal replant it in the dual trellis mode with Cabernet Sauvignon on the top and a mix of Albariño, Fiano and other whites on the bottom.

Neal has managed Martha’s Vineyard since the late 1980s and Everett trusts his judgment on the unusual vineyard layout. She says, “I didn’t find it unbelievable, I just thought, ‘Why hasn’t someone else thought of this?’ If you’re farming it correctly and you’re not taking everything out of the soil without putting it back, then it’s a slam dunk. I am very excited to see the results. It feels very natural, a good use of the land and very symbiotic.”

Neal is equally passionate about the environmental benefits of the dual trellis and its high yield per acre. Producing more wine on less land and doing it with earth- and climate-friendly regenerative practices is a win-win, he says. Less land is taken away from the shrinking wild spaces in the valley, and more wine is available for people to enjoy.

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Dual Purposes

Carbon sequestration, the act of putting carbon back in the ground rather than leaving it in gaseous form in the air where it increases climate change, is a big part of Neal’s climate-action push. He says that the densely planted vines in his dual-trellis vineyard sequester 3.5 times more carbon per acre than the University of California’s experimental vineyard in nearby Oakville, Napa Valley.

“I’ve returned so much more [carbon to the soil] because I’m mulching all the canopies and I’ve got the leaves, all that,” he says. “I’m really building more organic material than ever before with that dual system. And I’m watering less and using less fungicide. I’m using less of everything because I’m not farming two times more, just growing two times more. Not taking out forests, doing everything within the property.”

Despite all the apparent advantages, the dual trellis may face a challenge with perceptions. It’s practically a commandment in winemaking that lower yields make better wines, and the yields per acre here are as high as in the industrial-farmed vineyards around Fresno, California. But the proof is in the bottle. I blind-tasted wines made from this vineyard for his Neal Family Vineyard label against similar wines. The 2021 Vermentino Rutherford Dust was savory and subtle, rating 91 points, and the 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon was elegant, expansive and velvety, rating 97 points.

Others have favorable opinions, too. One is winemaker Mike Hirby, co-owner of Relic Wine Cellars, a small Napa operation making high-end wines from varied vineyard sites. He bought two tons of Neal’s Vermentino from the 2023 harvest grown on the dual trellis, enough for at least 100 cases.

“The wine turned out great,” Hirby said, citing vibrant, complex and sunny flavors in the grapes with 13.5 percent potential alcohol, low malic acid and a pH of 3.5. “When I first saw the trellis, I thought a pitfall was the question of light and shade for the lower canopy. But his crew handles it well, with good dappled sunlight getting through, no botrytis—and it was a tough year for that.”

It will be Relic’s first-ever Vermentino. Hirby says, “I am always a fan of supporting uncommon varieties, partly just to keep Napa Valley more diverse and learn more about what Napa can do for the future.”

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Doubling Down

Neal returns to the question of yields and wine quality when I visit with him again at the Neal Family Vineyards winery on Howell Mountain, where his wife, Laura, and daughter Demitria also work. The vineyard here is an organic, biodynamic and Regenerative Organic Certified property, where the family’s resident herd of sheep grazes the cover crops in spring and the emphasis is on building healthy soil.

The expansive winery and cave are adorned with graceful copper light fixtures and other copper furnishings designed and welded by Neal himself. He is both polymath and jack of all trades, equally deft at handling soils, plants, metals and machines.

How is it that a piece of land can produce twice the yield of demonstrably high-quality wine grapes than virtually any winemaker or master sommelier would expect? He breaks it down into measurable factors including the length of a vine’s shoots, looseness of the clusters, small size of the berries and also a grapevine’s inherent ability to simply get the job done.

Neal describes how the Rutherford Dust Vineyard dual trellis takes advantage of a good groundwater supply, with 2,200 vines per acre competing for water and sunshine. The competition keeps them from growing too many shoots and leaves, he says, and instead sends a generous amount of ripening energy into the grapes.

Neal says, “Our canopies are right there at that 36-inch, 40-inch shoot length, which is your balance for two clusters per shoot. Over the 25 years that I’ve been doing this trellis I’ve noticed that basically the vines will find that balance within themselves with that dual system. And that’s why I’m a firm believer in it, because I’m not having these five-foot or six-foot canes and a crazy amount of crop. You could see that these vines really want to do well for you. Why wouldn’t they? You’ve just got to support them by doing the right thing.”

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Another Napa Valley vineyard owner who has faith in Neal’s innovations is Miguel Solares. His property on Zinfandel Lane, Solares Vineyards, holds 20 acres of organically grown vines, including six acres that Neal converted from diseased Cabernet Sauvignon vines to a dual trellis four years ago. Solares now has new Cabernet and Petite Sirah grapes on top and white Albarino grapes below. He says Lola Wines is taking the Albariño and Hourglass Winery is taking some of the reds.

Solares believes in calculated risk, having come from the tech world before acquiring his vineyard property. He was not overly hesitant to try the unorthodox dual trellis. “We decided together to take a leap of faith. If it didn’t work out, I would still have the Cabernet. It was a risk but it wasn’t a binary risk. It wasn’t an all or nothing. Plus, I drink the Neal Family Vermentino two times a week at Cook restaurant when I am in town. I thought the reward was well worth the risk.”

At least two other Napa vineyards are also lined up for similar conversions. All of them may face some skepticism from winemakers and the wine trade. And there is at least one other challenge: Ag officials are having a difficult time with the concept. Neal says he had to do a lot of explaining when first filing reports to Napa County about the number of grape acres he owns. Officials had difficulty grasping how a 16-acre vineyard could produce 32 acres of grapes. They better believe it.

This article originally appeared in the June/July 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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Images may be worth 1,000 words, but numbers don’t lie: 25% of Mendocino County’s vineyard acres are certified organic (accounting for a third of certified organic vineyards across the Golden State); 1,094 acres are Demeter Biodynamic. Then add on 10,626 acres of certified Fish Friendly Farming and the 8,179 acres certified through California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance…and you start to get the idea.

“Mendocino County’s wine industry has long been at the forefront in terms of conscious viticulture in the United States,” comments Mark Wentworth, proprietor of Wentworth Vineyards. “Whether the ethos of any one particular producer is defined as organic, biodynamic, regenerative or even sustainable—certified or not—as a region the vast majority of producers fit within the broader tapestry of an effort to farm well and honor the land by promoting healthy soils, good groundwater and biodiversity.”

So it is that Mendocino, too, plays a leading role in the revitalization of regenerative agriculture.

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“Because it’s so doable,” says Joseph Brinkley, director of regenerative farming for Bonterra Organic Estates, commenting that the region has one of the most idyllic climates for vinifera, particularly in terms of low pest and disease pressure. “Another piece is that Mendocino had a fair amount of people coming north in that first wave of ‘back to the land’ movement in the ’60s and ’70s. And I’d say most, if not all, were interested in pursuing a way of life that isn’t heavily chemical dependent.”

Indeed, the majority of the region’s 570 vineyards are small family farms, with a median vineyard size of just 14 acres, many of whom live off the land they cultivate.

Firm Foundation

Sarah Bennett calls her Boonville dual dairy farm-vineyard, Pennyroyal Farm, “the next step” in the regenerative foundation her parents laid for her.

Bennett’s parents, Ted Bennett and Deborah Cahn, established Navarro Vineyards in 1973, first as a sheep ranch, planting the first vines in 1974 and transitioning business focus toward grapes and wine. “They lived in the middle of the vineyard—and all that means—and adopted many of the regenerative practices we use today: no synthetic insecticides or herbicides, limited tilling and composting,” says Bennett. Living off the land in the midst of the Navarro watershed, these practices were intuitive—how they farmed directly affected their health as well as that of the surrounding environment.

I’ve been doing this for 25 years. If someone asked me to farm conventionally, I wouldn’t even know how.

Heath Dolan, Dark Hors Farming Co.

After completing her master’s in viticulture and enology at UC Davis in 2005, “I wanted to dive deeper into soil health and sustainable practices, particularly limiting the use of fossil fuels,” says Bennett, who was “blown away” by how much fuel the family was using by not using chemical inputs. She started with a holistic grazing program, significantly reducing tillage throughout both Navarro Vineyards and Pennyroyal. The other advantage of keeping animals on-site year-round, she adds, is the natural “input” they provide. “They make our composting program completely self-sustainable—a closed-loop system.”

Beyond soil health and animal welfare, worker wellness is a big component to regenerative practices. “My parents, back in the early days, were big supporters of creating a healthy workforce,” says Bennett who, like her parents, employs full-time in-house staff with all the expected benefits. “It’s great for me as the second generation in the family business to have grown up with Navarro’s employees’ kids. I pride myself on being an active part of the community and think the social, cultural part of regenerative is hugely important, not just the farming portion.”

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Generational Shifts

“It’s a bit hippie dippy out here…but in a good way,” jokes Michael Frey, head of operations of Mariah Vineyards, referencing that same “back to the land movement” that initially inspired the region-wide regenerative approach to farming.

His wife, Nicole Dooling, second-generation proprietor and farmer whose parents, Dan and Vicki Dooling, established the family estate back in 1979, agrees but adds, “Mendocino is much more diverse in its agriculture, in terms of types of farming, and the vineyards are much more spread out. There’s more space and there’s a lot less chemical drift.” This is particularly true in the Mendocino Ridge sub-AVA, where her family’s Savory Institute Land-to-Market verified regenerative property sits at 2,400 feet elevation.

“Regenerative agriculture is what brought me back home,” says Dooling, who grew up off the grid among 30 acres of vines and today splits her time between working the farm and working as an ER trauma nurse in San Francisco.

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It was at the 2019 Regenerative Earth Summit where the couple became inspired by regenerative practices—processes, they say, that have been proven to create and enhance a lively ecosystem, a balanced relationship between life above and below ground. “Not that my parents were doing anything wrong,” says Dooling, who notes that their remote location coupled with their fertile timber soils and adequate rainfall has allowed her family to establish and cultivate a dry-farmed (non-irrigated) vineyard. “But it was the idea that we can do things better. That’s what brought me home—this inspiration to learn and to become a better farmer.”

Dooling and Frey have since been instrumental in transitioning the family farm toward fully regenerative practices and achieving their certification. It’s a blessing, they say, to be able to simultaneously learn from Dooling’s parents, who’ve been working the land for the last 40 years while also adding their own learnings from the regenerative agriculture community.

Shifting the “old school” generational mindset was not (is not) without its challenges; there have been back-and-forth conversations about certain practices, such as vine row management and pruning techniques. But, “Regenerative agriculture is all about relationships,” comments Dooling. “My father’s come a long way.”

Any Other Way

“I don’t know any other way to farm. I’ve been doing this for 25 years. If someone asked me to farm conventionally, I wouldn’t even know how,” says fifth-generation grape grower and proprietor of Dark Horse Farming Co. Heath Dolan.

Dolan is the son of the late Paul Dolan, who is famed for his work at Fetzer, cofounder of Truett-Hurst Inc. and a legacy leader in organic, biodynamic and regenerative viticulture.

It’s a bit hippie dippy out here … but in a good way.

Michael Frey, Mariah Vineyards

Remembering his father, Heath comments that when Fetzer first began farming organically in 1987, “people jumped on board,” referring not just to the local community, but the wine industry at large. But, Dolan adds, from his perspective there are actually fewer Mendocino vineyards certified today than in the past. His own property, previously certified both organic and biodynamic, hasn’t held the Demeter certification for the past two years.

“People realize they don’t need the certification, but a lot of those lessons learned about farming better, I think just really stuck,” says Dolan. “And organics logically leads to regenerative. It’s the next natural step. With biodynamics, there’s too much barrier, the voodoo and understanding of it. With regenerative, though…the farming part is easy for a lot of people.” Dark Horse has maintained its CCOF organic certification and is in the process of completing the Regenerative Organic Certification (ROC) through the Regenerative Organic Alliance (of which his father was a board member) in time for harvest 2024.

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Certifications are nice indications, but it’s the back-to-the-land, community mindset that really propels the region forward in its position as a leader in regenerative practices—a region where generations of farmers continue to learn from one another.

“It’s producers like Barra, Frey and Bonterra whose wines and reputations all helped attract me to the area originally when I worked in other industries,” says Mark Wentworth, acknowledging the influence bigger names have had on sustainability efforts throughout the region. “They’ve long sought to do right by the planet and produce delicious wine.”

Bonterra Organic Estates is undoubtedly one of the most influential. The company has a long list of certifications, including organic, BCorp, Climate Neutral and Zero Waste—among others. But Brinkley points to its regenerative organic certification as the true talking point. “When we speak of all those others, some are age-focused; some are business-focused,” he says. “But workers and laborers were never part of the conversation. Now, it’s not just about farming without exploiting the land but also without exploiting animals and people. That’s a critical piece. There’s no way to have a serious impact in farming if we don’t address labor.” Certifying through the ROC gives full transparency in every aspect via the third-party verification process.

Bonterra is the largest certified regenerative viticultural business in the U.S., with 865 certified acres planted to vines. And the company does not take that role lightly. “We don’t want to be the only ones doing this,” says Brinkley, pointing toward the ways in which they help educate the wine community both on an intimate, local level as well as on a larger, national one. In fact, Brinkley has (a few times) pled the regenerative organic case in Washington D.C., in an effort to enhance farmer incentive to move toward this more ecologically sustainable farming technique.

“There’s the individual business need, but then also the bigger need. We all have to start rowing in the same direction. It’s that rising tide idea,” says Brinkley. “If more growers farm this way in Mendocino, then the North Coast, California, the U.S.—the world? Then we all benefit.”

This article originally appeared in the June/July 2024 of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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