Fruit-Stuffed Loin of Pork

Heat oven to 350°F.

With a long thin knife, cut a hole through the center of the pork, running the length of it. Move knife to increase diameter of hole, as it will need to accommodate the dried fruit.

Using handle of a wooden spoon, push the dried fruits into the hole of the roast, alternating prunes and apricots.

Make slits in roast with the tip of a knife and push the garlic into the slits. Rub surface with salt and pepper and place in a shallow baking pan.

Smear butter over the roast and sprinkle with thyme. Stir Madeira and molasses together and pour over roast. Set pan on middle rack of oven and bake for 75 minutes, basting every 20 minutes. After 75 minutes, check temperature in thickest part of the roast; pull from oven when it reaches 140°F (temperature will rise slightly as it rests).

Let pork stand, loosely covered with foil, for 15 to 20 minutes. To serve, cut into thin slices and spoon pan juices over slices. Serves 8 to 10.

The year 1982 is famed as one of Bordeaux’s vintages of the century, thanks to a then-little known Robert Parker gushing over it as one of the region’s best ever. That view has met with controversy over subsequent years, but the ripe, rich ’82 Bordeaux are still highly sought after. It was also an exceptional year for Champagne, South Africa and Spain; high-quality wines from Ribera del Duero, too, are still drinking terrifically.

Guigal 2018 Red (Côtes du Rhône)

Authors Lukins and Rosso were big fans of Beaujolais and Côtes du Rhône in the 1980s, recommending them as affordable and versatile food wines. The recommendation holds today. Guigal’s entry-level CdR is always a great value; the 2018 has herbs and spices that go well with the pork, while dark berry fruit melds with the sweeter elements in the dish.