Burgundy Archives | Wine Enthusiast https://www.wineenthusiast.com/region/burgundy/ Wine Enthusiast Magazine Wed, 24 Apr 2024 19:51:49 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.2.5 Looking for an Affordable Champagne Alternative? Meet Crémant de Bourgogne https://www.wineenthusiast.com/ratings/wine-ratings/sparkling-wine-ratings/best-cremant-de-bourgogne/ Wed, 24 Apr 2024 15:46:16 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=175862 A survey found that a quarter of Americans drink bubbles at least twice a week. These Burgundy selections are an ideal addition to one’s sparkling rotation. [...]

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Sparklers have moved beyond special occasions into everyday life in recent years.

According to analysts at the beverage alcohol market data firm IWSR Group, the number of Americans buying bubbles rose by 30% between 2019 and 2022. People are not only drinking more sparkling wine, they are drinking it more frequently. During that period the number of people sipping bubbly monthly rose to 72%, up from 56%, and experts expect this figure to rise by more than 15% through at least 2026. Most impressive, though? Nearly a quarter of the respondents said they drink bubbles at least twice a week.

Unless those researchers focused their attention on Beverly Hills, chances are most folks aren’t splashing out $50 on a bottle of Champagne multiple times per week. (But if so, we’d love to hang.) That’s where crémant comes in. These under-the-radar French sparkling wines are made in the méthode Champenoise, with the second fermentation in the bottle, just in regions outside of the birthplace of bubbles. And unlike Champagne, prices start around $20, making it a delicious and affordable option.

You May Also Like: Meet Crémant, France’s Affordable Sparkling Wine

Of all the crémants in France, the closest to Champagne in terms of varietals, terroir and geographic proximity is Crémant de Bourgogne. Hailing from one of the most coveted wine regions on the planet—Burgundy—these reasonably priced bottles benefit from the abundance of high-quality Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other grapes grown on precisely defined plots of Unesco World Heritage–recognized climats or terroir.

“We’re working off the same chalky and, in some parts granitic and limestone soils, that grow the majority of the best wines we know,” says Wine Enthusiast Tasting Director Anna-Christina Cabrales. “Depending on where grapes are sourced, we can get the same essence of chalky limestone. The persistence is not nearly as strong but those looking for lively acidity and a faint hint of minerality, it is there, for sure.”

You May Also Like: The Other Side of the Slope: Burgundy’s Other Grapes and Wines

And because producers in the region are working with similar grapes to what’s used in its more-famous-for-sparkling-neighbor-to-the-north, they can make a wide range of effervescent styles including blanc de blanc, blanc de noir and rosé. “Naturally, this is a cost-effective alternative to Champagne,” adds Cabrales.

Ready to explore the world of France’s other sparkling wines? We’ve got you covered with expert picks below.


Moillard 2018 Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Initially simple and muted, this wine opens to present predominantly with pink and white flowers, freshly squeezed citrus, and salt. Some grapefruit notes add energy to the round and creamy mouthfeel, which soften any lingering green and grainy sensations. 89 Points — Anna-Christina Cabrales

$23 San Marcos Wine And Spirits

Bailly-Lapierre NV Réserve Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Nostalgic aromas of raspberry squished between milk chocolate and graham cracker bring warm memories to mind. The palate is crisp, featuring these notes with delicacy and balance. 92 Points — A.C.

$23 Wine.com

Louis Bouillot NV Perle de Vigne Grande Réserve Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

A complex nose of fresh orange flesh, apples and cherry skins harmonize with fresh thyme and violets on the nose. The gentle palate shows flavors of red and blackberries accompanied by freshly cut apples sprinkled with salt. Its delicate long finish is caressed by a hint of salinity. 91 Points — A.C.

$ Varies Bargain Liquors

Veuve Ambal NV Grande Cuvée Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Delicate aromas of tangerine, yellow peach, yellow flowers and peach gummy candy combine to deliver a fun and approachable nose. On the palate, this pretty and delicious wine is stony with light yellow peaches. 89 Points — A.C.

$19 ABC

Marie de Louvoy NV Carte Noire Pinot Noir Extra-Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Pure aromas of cherry skin, Bosc pear and white flowers delight the nose. This delicate and precise expression is quite pithy on the palate and finishes with pulverized stone. Its lively mousse pairs well with oily Mediterranean fish dishes. 89 Points — A.C.

$38 We Drink Bubbles

Caves de Marsigny NV Réserve Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Fresh and zippy aromas of cut apple, lime skin, orange peel, white peach and white flowers penetrate the nose. The palate gives flavors of dehydrated lemon, along with orange oil, dandelions, and stone. Its round and creamy mouthfeel is refreshed by its gentle acidity. Simple and refreshing. Best Buy. 88 Points — A.C.

$15 WineTransit.com

Jean-Charles Boisset NV No.Infinity Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Riesling-like aromas are accompanied by cherries, wildflowers and damp earth on the nose. The palate displays flavors of Anjou pear, stone and light salt encased in good texture and brisk acidity. This wine makes for a great aperitif. 88 Points — A.C.

$75 JCB Collection

Prosper Maufoux NV Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Refreshing, with a good balance of orchard and citrus fruit, this crémant finishes with pleasurable salinity and sweetness. 92 Points — A.C.

$24 Wine Chateau

Champliau NV Brut Rosé (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Aromas of pomelo, a sliver of honey, fresh slices of red apple and plums develop with concentration in the nose. The palate is joyous and lifted, with a touch of savory essence from plums and black cherries. Absolutely delectable. 91 Points — A.C.

$ Varies TheWineBuyer.com

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6 White Burgundy Wines You Just Can’t Ignore https://www.wineenthusiast.com/ratings/wine-ratings/white-wine-ratings/best-white-burgundy-wine/ Wed, 24 Apr 2024 14:47:15 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=175861 These wines deliver power and elegance balanced with complex florals and minerality. Our tasting director often wishes they were magnums. [...]

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The white wines from France’s famed Burgundy region—not always but most often Chardonnay—are some of the most beloved from around the world. The region’s cool climate and limestone-rich soil yield exceptional bottles, whether it’s a splurgy Grand Cru for special occasions or an affordable everyday option from one of the larger appellations. 

You May Also Like: White Burgundy: The Triumph of Terroir 

“There’s something about the complex aromas of white Burgundy that you just can’t ignore,” says Anna-Christina Cabrales, Wine Enthusiast’s tasting director. “The refreshing combination of fine elegance or power in citrus fruit balanced with a complex layer of florals and minerality tells me I’m in Burgundy. In developed wines, this only intensifies, but the condition of fruits and florals feel dry or dehydrated with interesting notes of toffee or honey.” 

White wines from Burgundy are often savored on their own, but they’re especially versatile when it comes to pairings. (Some suggestions? Barbecued tuna, veggie burgers, burgers with mushroom sauce or pork.) “Enjoyed with food, I often regret that the bottle wasn’t a magnum,” Cabrales says. 

You May Also Like: Aligoté, Burgundy’s Other Great White, Steps Into the Spotlight  

Though it’s hard to find a bad Chardonnay from Burgundy, we figured we’d help you out by asking the experts which bottles stand out from the already impressive pack. They rounded up six of our favorite wines, from budget-conscious Chablis and Pouilly-Fuissé to indulgent Premier Cru worth saving for a celebration. Take a look below. 

Domaine du Roc des Boutires 2020 Premier Cru Aux Chailloux (Pouilly-Fuissé)

Ripe lemons, pink lady apple, Bosc pear, honeysuckle and salty sweet butter come together in the glass. Round and focused with brisk acidity that refreshes and provides lift especially to its intense mineral midpalate. Wonderful to enjoy now. 93 points. — Anna-Christina Cabrales

$64.99 Wine.com

La Chablisienne 2020 Fourchaume Premier Cru (Chablis)

Subtle aromas of muddled lemon wedges and dandelions harmonize with tall wet grass, fresh hay and broken stone. The palate is rounded by lactic softness, with flavors of lemon pith, lime skin and bruised apple caressed by light kelp and hay. Mouth-watering acidity energizes the palate as the wine finishes with intense salinity. 93 points. — A.C.

$94.99 Bowery & Vine

Domaine Jean Dauvissat Père et Fils 2020 Côte de Léchet Premier Cru (Chablis)

Pure and fresh aromas of citrus and Anjou pear are balanced by notes of wet dandelion and stone on the nose. The wine is round and salinic, accentuating a subtle yet persistent limestone, leading to a hay and kelp finish. This expression pairs well with sushi. 92 points. — A.C.

$69.99 Paradise Wine

Louis Jadot 2020 Premier Cru (Pouilly-Fuissé)

Aromas of both tart and ripe Meyer lemon, Gala apple and honeysuckle are framed by note of light brioche with brown butter. The palate is elegant and energetic with refreshing acidity that accentuates the toasted brioche note, adding depth to its fruit profile. Enjoyable now. 93 points. — A.C.

$39.99 Plum Market

Domaine L. Chatelain 2021 Chablis

Fresh Meyer lemon, Bosc pear, lemongrass, straw and wet stone on the nose. The palate is intensely mineral-laden with crisp acidity that highlights soft citrus and hay notes on the finish. A beautiful accompaniment with shellfish. 91 points. — A.C.

$39.99 Total Wine

Simonnet-Febvre 2021 Chablis

An elegant expression with overripe lemons, Anjou pear, white mushroom and wet stone on the nose. The palate is refined with soft minerality that perfectly balances its citrus profile. Delicious and enjoyable now. 92 points. — A.C.

$38.99 Yiannis Wine
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Burgundy Taste on a Beer Budget: 7 Affordable Bottles to Buy Right Now https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/best-burgundy-wine/ Tue, 16 Apr 2024 19:36:24 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2023/01/04/best-burgundy-wine/ This French region may be tiny, but Burgundy produces wines sought after around the world. And fantastic bottles can be found for less than $40. [...]

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Less than 5% of French wine comes from Burgundy, but don’t let this region’s size fool you. Bottles from this tiny area vary in flavor, style and complexity, making a bottle of Burgundy something truly special.

“Burgundy is no more than 60 miles from North to South, and it produces some of the most beautiful profiles of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir,” says Anna-Christina Cabrales, tasting director at Wine Enthusiast and Burgundy and Rhône Valley wine reviewer. “Winemakers around the world try and replicate the nuances and balance of this region.” 

What Is Burgundy Wine? 

Burgundy is a central Eastern France region that produces reds, whites, sparkling wines and rosés. From North to South, there are five primary wine-producing areas; Chablis, Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais. Each one is made up of different villages, also called communes.

Some of the villages are home to climats and/or lieu dits, both of which are delineated superior vineyards. Each are “very distinct in geology and soil composition, which is primarily clay, marl and limestone,” adds Cabrales. “The decomposed marine sedimentary rocks from the Jurassic era allows the grapes to really shine and is the thread through this region.” 

Here, we break down everything you need to know about Burgundy wine, plus some of our favorite bottles.  

Our Favorite Burgundy Bottles

Chartron et Trébuchet 2021 Chardonnay (Bourgogne)

The wine presents with a spray of wet grass and fruit, with white mushroom, white lilies, and white stones enveloping the nose with a beautiful waft of light florality. A palate of under ripe citrus and pith is accompanied by an elegant tone of vanilla that lingers on the finish. 92 points. — Anna-Christina Cabrales

$22.99 The Party Source

Albert Bichot 2021 Domaine Long-Depaquit (Chablis)

Aromas of freshly cut Gala apples, Bosc pear, hay, lemongrass and chalk fill the glass. The palate is coated by mouth-watering acidity, showing flavors of fresh yuzu and lemon grass and extending a long mineral finish. This refreshingly brisk and gentle acidity tantalizes more sips. This wine should be a versatile pairing with many seafood dishes. 92 points. — A.C.

$33.99 Wine.com

Château de Chamilly 2020 Au Pied du Mont Morin (Mercurey)

Aromas of fresh earth and a handful of ripe cherries and wild strawberries sprinkled with wild mint. The palate concentrates these notes and finishes with a balanced mushroom and stone note. Textured and with good balance, this wine is approachable in its youth. 92 points. — A.C.

$33.99 Taylor’s Wine Shop

Domaine L. Chatelain 2021 Chablis

Fresh Meyer lemon, Bosc pear, lemongrass, straw and wet stone on the nose. The palate is intensely mineral-laden with crisp acidity that highlights soft citrus and hay notes on the finish. A beautiful accompaniment with shellfish. 91 points. — A.C.

$39.99 Total Wine

Nicolas Potel 2020 Bourgogne

Spicy notes of black cherry, pear skin, green peppercorn, clove, black tea and rose dance around the nose. The palate is treated to cranberry, rhubarb, fresh cherry and the same green peppercorn and clove. Although the finish is bitter and short for now, the wine may benefit from development in the cellar. 90 points. — A.C.

$25.98 Woods Wholesale Wine

Louis Latour 2020 Beaune

Focused aromas of black cherry, rhubarb, wild mint and turned earth come together in the glass for a complex nose. The palate offers deep red cherries beautifully balanced by mushroom, thyme and black tea notes. Drying tannins are balanced by brisk acidity that provides lift to this dark-fruited profile. Approachable now. 92 points. — A.C.

$25.99 Liquors Inc

Prosper Maufoux 2021 Domaine Vigne au Roy (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits)

Lush aromatics of Amarena cherry, rhubarb, white strawberry and green peppercorn draw in the nose. The palate offers soft tannins that elegantly frame notes of bing cherry, orange oil and white tea leaf flavors along the finish. 91 points. — A.C.

$31.99 Varmax

Burgundy FAQs

Which Grapes are in Burgundy Wine? 

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the main grapes of Burgundy. “The Pinot Noir exudes beautiful wild and sometimes concentrated red berry tones with hints of black pepper,” says Cabrales. “Its bouquet or floral presentation, backed with a fine stone minerality, captivates me. The moment I smell this, I know exactly where I am.” 

Whereas the Chardonnay from Burgundy is “like a bright sunny day,” says Cabrales. “The profile transports you to an open field where you can smell a balance between a fresh tart or ripe citrus basket. These wines’ light herbal notes and then the floral aspect is inescapable.”  

Along with these two grapes, there are several others permitted—albeit in much smaller quantities. Some regions can grow Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Aligoté, which is like Chardonnay.  

If you’ve ever had a Crémant de Bourgogne, or sparkling Burgundy wine, it likely used Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as its base blend but Aligoté, Melon de Bourgogne, Sacy, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris are allowed in Burgundy sparklers as well.  

What Is the Burgundy Classification System?

Like most of France, Burgundy uses a classification system to signal quality. But it can get a tad confusing.  

“Think of the classification system in terms of quality level,” explains Cabrales. “The entry will be at the regional level, followed by village and the most prized vineyards sitting at the Grand Cru level. Due to quality standards through the area, there are some Premier Crus, the level before Grand Cru, that some collectors would regard as Grand Cru quality.” 

Here’s a look at Burgundy’s classification from the base level up.  

Regional Appellations: These bottles are labeled Bourgogne Blanc or Bourgogne Rouge and are more affordable options. They will likely be Chardonnay or Pinot Noir and can come from anywhere in the Burgundy region.  

“If you’re looking to present Burgundy to friends who are unfamiliar with the region reach for these wines. They’re delightful, straightforward and easy to drink,” says Cabrales.  

Commune or Village Appellations: Wines from here will be labeled with the name of the village in which it’s produced, like Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Beaune, Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet or Pouilly-Fuissé, for instance. The price tag increases from the regional level.  

“These wines are a great window into village terroir and the condition of the harvest for that region,” says Cabrales. “Expect a really balanced display of fruit and a greater expression of earth and terroir.” 

Premier Crus: Almost at the top but not quite. Premier Crus can either come from single or multiple different climats.

“These wines are about a specific soil composition and site condition,” says Cabrales. “Expect various alluring profiles that can vary greatly from site to site, even if they are within a stone’s throw from each other. These wines are textured and offer layers of complexity.” 

Grand Crus: These wines are the best of Burgundy. Less than 2% of bottles carry this label and therefore are quite expensive.

“These are simply the best and, in many cases, come from some of the oldest vines in the region,” says Cabrales. “These wines are powerful, incredibly complex and arguably some of the best profiles of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.” 

What Is the Chablis Classification System?

Chablis has its own classification system. The majority of winemakers produce bottles in two or three of these categories. Only a handful make wines in all four and Chardonnay is the only grape allowed.   

Petit Chablis: Wines with this label can be made with grapes from different vineyards.  

“These are fresh wines with a citrus and zesty profile with very bright acidity,” says Cabrales. “Enjoy them in their youth and especially as an aperitif.” 

Chablis: These are the most widely available bottles. They can be made with grapes from select villages like Beines, Béru and Viviers.

“Chablis Village is your go-to when you simply want a high-acid mineral-laden wine,” says Cabrales. 

Chablis Premier Cru: Wines with this label can come from 40 different vineyards throughout Chabis.  

“The profiles can vary due to the exposition and where it sits along the Serein River,” says Cabrales. “Some might present to be a bit more austere or lean while others may exude more fruitiness. These wines have texture and a specific profile.” 

Chablis Grand Cru: Wines will this label come from Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur, and Vaudésir. 

“Les Clos is the most sought after,” says Cabrales. “It’s the largest of the Chablis Gran Crus and the sunniest. But all are powerful and worthy of cellaring.”

Why You Should Trust Us

All products featured here are independently selected by our team, which is comprised of experienced writers and wine tasters and overseen by editorial professionals at Wine Enthusiast headquarters. All ratings and reviews are performed blind in a controlled setting and reflect the parameters of our 100-point scale. Wine Enthusiast does not accept payment to conduct any product review, though we may earn a commission on purchases made through links on this site. Prices were accurate at the time of publication.

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Burgundy on a Budget: Visit The Famed French Region Without Breaking the Bank https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/travel/budget-burgundy-vacation/ Fri, 12 Apr 2024 22:34:14 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=175472 The best places to eat, drink and stay while keeping an eye on the bottom line in France’s famed wine region. [...]

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Millions of people visit France each year to be close to some of the world’s most treasured vineyards. One of the most coveted stops is Burgundy (Bourgogne in French), a region about a three-hour drive southeast of Paris known for its Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays and more than 80 appellations to explore. While this area is home to some of the country’s most elevated vineyards and historic chateaux, this doesn’t mean that a trip is out of the question for budget-minded travelers.  Here’s how to do it right.  

France, Bourgogne-Franche-Comte, Burgundy, Cote-d'Or. Golden vineyards in Autumn, Chablis
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Chablis and Surrounds

Located in the northwest portion of Burgundy is the appellation and village of Chablis. Here, look for wines made from the region’s signature white grape, Chardonnay. However, what makes this spot unique is its cooler climate and iconic Kimmeridgian soil composed of limestone, clay and fossilized oyster shells, which produces a sip that is lean, mineral-driven and bright. 

Where to Drink in and Around Chablis 

For less than seven euros per person, visitors to La Chablisienne, a cooperative winery, can enjoy a tasting of four wines, including Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru. Épineuil, located northeast of Chablis, is another unique appellation where offers hospitable tasting experiences. There, check out Domaine Dominique Gruhier for top-notch hospitable tasting experiences. Make sure to try his outstanding Crémant de Bourgogne, made with the same technique as Champagne but with local grapes (and a smaller price tag). Other suggestions include Domaine Ferrari in Irancy, where historic vintage bottles are available for under 20 euros and Domaine du Clos du Roi in Coulanges-la-Vineuse, which offers tastes of Burgundian food products such as cheese, sausages, gherkins and more. 

You May Also Like: 10 of our Favorite Chablis for Every Budget

Where to Eat in Chablis 

There’s one place everyone visits in the village of Chablis and that’s Au Fil du Zinc, which chef Mathieu Sagardoytho has led since the summer of 2020. He’s known for being meticulous with his ingredients such as local Crisenon Farm trout and lamb from nearby Clavisy Farm. To explore the wine list—which includes Chablis legends such as Vincent Dauvissat and Domaine François Raveneau—consider popping in for lunch, which starts at 34 euros for three courses. Wine pairings start at three glasses for 33 euros. Le Bistrot des Grands Crus features around 400 Chablis wines selected by Sommelier Thomas Charlut, recognized by the Revue des Vins de France for creating one of the “100 most beautiful wine lists” in the country. Some of these wines are a splurge, but the weekday menu for 30 euros and wines by the glass starting at five euros are affordable hacks that will let you experience the same local flavors on the plate and in the glass. 

Where to Stay in Chablis 

Get a room at Hostellerie des Clos, right in the heart of the village of Chablis. This hotel has amenities including a spa and gym, but room rates are reasonable, between 90 and 120 euros per night. Book during a weekday in the quiet season for the best price. Another savvy option is Appartements Domaine Gueguen Chablis, a modernized guest house run by one of the region’s most respected family-owned winery estates. It offers studio, one-bedroom and two-bedroom accommodations, starting at less than 100 euros. Wine tastings can be had for 5 euros. 

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France, Burgundy, Côte-d'Or, Dijon, Unesco world heritage site, cityscape with Sainte Benigne cathedral
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Dijon

The historic center of Dijon is part of The Climats, Terroirs of Burgundy UNESCO World Heritage Site, so expect to find great local wines paired with exceptional architecture, including a 15th-century Gothic palace and a medieval historic core filled with pedestrian-friendly winding cobblestone streets. (If you come across owl-shaped emblems, you know you’ve stumbled upon a notable location.) Dijon is also a fantastic eating city, with classic culinary delights like Dijon mustard, pungent époisses cheese and escargot on many menus. Plus, there are loads of free museums—standouts include Musée des Beaux-Arts  and Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle—so you don’t have to swipe your card to have a good time. 

Where to Drink in Dijon 

La Cave se Rebiffe is a must-visit. Reservations are essential since a full house at this intimate spot is fewer than 20 people. Jeff Burrows, DipWSET and writer at FoodWineClick.com, suggests exploring the menus on the large chalkboards and sharing a bottle with a friend. Another favorite is L’Arsouille, a natural wine shop that offers tastings and outdoor seating, so guests can enjoy a bottle on the spot. Burrows also recommends Dingovino for its selection of natural wines from the region and around France. 

For a unique experience, Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin offers food and wine workshops and experiences, such as a program on the history of salt, a Pinot Noir versus Gamay tasting and a class about snacks of the Roman Gods. 

A short car ride south of Dijon leads to Caveau des Vignerons in Morey-Saint-Denis where 12 local producers offer over one hundred wines in a single convenient location. 

Where to Eat in Dijon 

Dijon is a food-loving city, where finding a good meal is never hard. Burrows recommends Monique for its seasonally sourced veggies and extensive wine list—three-course meals start at 24 euro. Another standout is Restaurant So, which earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand for its quality and value, from less than 30 euro for three courses. For a cozy night out, Caveau de Saulx offers great wine and organic food in this 17th-century cellar with a stony, nocturnal ambiance. 

But the most budget-friendly and flexible option is to gather ingredients from Les Halles of Dijon, a sprawling market housed in a metal and glass Gustave Eiffel (yes, Eiffel tower, Eiffel) building where you’ll be surrounded by merchants offering the region’s bounty including mushrooms, pastries, bread, cheese, pâté and more. 

Where to Stay in Dijon 

Hôtel Wilson invites guests to lodge in a fully renovated 17th-century carriage house. Located in the historic town center, with plenty of walkable experiences nearby, this hotel offers rooms ranging from 89 to 250 euro, with additional supplements for breakfast, parking and pets. Another conveniently located accommodation is Hôtel des Ducs, which boasts stylish rooms and apartments in the historic district. It also has a unique loyalty program, granting a 15% discount to return guests booking within three years of their original visit. 

Saturday Market in Beaune
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Beaune

Beaune is one of the wine capitals of Europe. It’s the home of the world’s oldest wine auction, held at the Hôtel-Dieu, one of the most famous historical sites in the region. The spectacular Gothic building features a glazed tile roof surrounded by dozens of hectares of Premier and Grand cru terroir. This is one of the most bustling spots for wine lovers in the region, full of immersive experiences into the viticultural history of Burgundy. 

Where to Drink in Beaune 

Beaune offers many places to enjoy wine without breaking the bank. Wenz recommends Le Bout du Monde for a candlelit experience with exposed-stone walls and multi-textured furniture perfect for an after-dinner sip. Many of our experts shout out teensy La Dilettante for exploring Burgundy’s wide variety of wine (which has made it a favorite among local producers) and Arche des Vins for incredible events and collaborations, such as an evening with Joel Dupuch oysters paired with the wines of Domaine Coffinet-Duvernay or Paul Boeuf wines matched with Swiss raclette. Le Soleil, in nearby Savigny-les-Beaune—associated with the multi-generational and highly regarded Domaine Simon Bize et Fils—has excellent small plates and new wines. Two cooperative tasting rooms, Le Caveau d’Auxey (tastings start at 15 euro) and Nuitons-Beaunois (tastings are free), also offer a wide selection of wines from local growers and a welcoming atmosphere. 

Where to Eat in Beaune 

Beaune is a paradise for food enthusiasts, from the rustic menu (think: beef bourguignon and jambon persillé) and exceptional wine list at Les Caves Madeleine to Le Bistrot des Falaises, an artisan bistro in tiny Saint-Romain, where you won’t go wrong with the menu of the day, starting around 23 euro. For modern, market-fresh cuisine, Relais de Saulx is a must-visit, while La Buisonnière serves traditional dishes made from local produce, with daily menus starting at less than 25 euro. At La Table du Square—a Beaune staple with a rich epicurean history, attractive to locals and visitors alike—two-courses meals kick off at 22 euro.  

Where to Stay in Beaune 

Beaune offers a wide range of accommodation options to suit various preferences and budgets. Wine writer Kristy Wenz likes Hotel Le Home’s atmosphere with its wallpapered rooms and vine-covered exterior. Le Central Boutique Hotel stands out for its chic, modern decor and convenient central location, starting at 85 euro per night. Burrows suggests four-star La Maison des Courtines, which combines classic French design with modern comforts within the historic walls of Beaune; rates start around 85 euro. For people whose design taste runs contemporary, Ibis Styles Beaune Centre (not to be confused with Ibis Beaune Center) offers amenities like a swimming pool, jacuzzi, rooftop terrace and a prime location in the heart of the city. There, expect to spend at least 115 euro a night. 

You May Also Like: Aligoté, Burgundy’s Other Great White, Steps Into the Spotlight

View of the city of Mâcon with Saône river in Burgundy, France
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Southern Bourgogne: Côte Chalonaise and Mâcon

The southern regions of Côte Chalonaise and Mâcon boast stunning vineyards and offer a delightful exploration of urban and rural beauty. Though these areas are not home to Grand Cru vineyards, they have a similar geography and the same varieties and vineyards to the north, making this a fine spot to discover excellent values. The picturesque landscapes, historical sites and farm-to-table vibe further enrich the experience, ensuring that these areas are worth the trip.  

Where to Drink in Southern Bourgogne 

Visit Millesime Cave & Bar A Vins in Mâcon, where Wenz suggests exploring the craft beer and spirits selection alongside the hundreds of French wines on offer. Another promising spot in Mâcon is the SKYBAR “Le 360” at Hotel le Panorama, which offers unmatched city views perfect for apéro. Stevie Bobés, a Burgundy resident and proprietor of the boutique travel agency Wine Ambassadeur, suggests a visit to L’Atrium, in Solutré-Pouilly, for its well-curated wine selection and tastings with respected winemakers. In Mercurey, go to Le Caveau Divin for its warm and welcoming ambiance. Lastly, don’t miss Cave de Lugny, a wine cooperative in Lugny that offers a wide selection of local wines representing over 400 grower members. Vignerons des Terres Secrètes is another essential co-op, with wines (many priced under 15 euro, or even, 10 euro) displayed alongside the soil from where they were grown. Plus, its prime location along the Green Way cycling route can’t be beat. 

Where to Eat in Southern Bourgogne 

Similar to its northern neighbors, southern Bourgogne is famous for its wines, meats, produce and cheeses. Try them at Restaurant Le Cassis by Célie and Aymeric Buiron, who have Michelin-kitchen roots. Moving to Chevagny-les-Chevrières, Wenz suggests Restaurant L’Impala des Vignes, where chef Sandra Huguenin ensures everything on the menu—from slow-cooked pork shank and chicken curry to seasonal fruit macarons—is fresh and flavorful. In Viré, check out Restaurant la Virée Gourmande for an inexpensive and typical French bistro with classic dishes; three-course menus start at 20 euro. In Givry, try Maison Minori, tucked into a refurbished wine cellar with a Japanese-inspired menu. And there’s a bonus: Minori also offers rooms for rent starting at 105 euro, with an optional breakfast.  

Where to Stay in Southern Bourgogne 

It might seem impossible to stay in a refurbished château at a reasonable price, but rural Château de la Barge offers exquisite, individually decorated rooms with outstanding views and elegant décor at approachable rates, which start around 75 euro. For an in-town option, Wenz recommends Hotel le Panorama in Mâcon, which offers comfortable accommodations with a spectacular view of town, making it an ideal choice for strolling and exploring. 

Burgundy Travel Tips for Your Back Pocket (and Pocketbook) 

  • Look for the Vignobles & Découvertes label, a national indicator of wine and vineyard tourism. These places are welcoming and approachable. 
  • The Burgundy region introduced Cité des Climats centers in Chablis, Mâcon and Beaune. Each offers introductory to advanced tasting options and is a resource for wine estate suggestions. 
  • Burgundy restaurants are small and fill up fast, so reservations are a must, even for lunch. Avoid overspending due to lack of planning. 
  • Look for the board! As elsewhere around France, ordering from the set menu—an entrée (starter), plat (main course) and dessert or cheese—will generally get you a reasonable price on a full meal with the freshest flavors. 
  • For value, Burrows suggests having your three-course restaurant meal at lunchtime rather than a pricier dinner service. 
  • Many restaurants will offer a set of wines by the glass at prices that overdeliver. Remember when drinking in Burgundy, the regional wines are often a steal and still come from some incredible sites.  
  • Substitute expensive dinners out with an evening picnic or casual homemade meal with ingredients from the market. 
  • Cooperative wineries bring together the harvest of multiple vineyards and growers within their appellation. Bobés says these places offer good value wines. They manage prices more easily due to pooled resources among member growers. 
  • Bobés also suggests visiting boutique, up-and-coming and family-owned producers. Many of these offer incredible value for exploring unique expressions of Burgundy wines. 

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Aligoté, Burgundy’s Other Great White, Steps Into the Spotlight https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/burgundy-aligote/ Tue, 17 Oct 2023 15:41:52 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/?p=160695 In the heart of Bourgogne, where vineyards weave intricate stories of terroir through expressions of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, lies an undervalued gem. [...]

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Aligoté, often incorrectly regarded as the subtler iteration of Chardonnay, is a cross of Pinot Noir and the more obscure Gouais Blanc. With its historical roots tracing back to the 17th century, this variety flourished throughout Burgundy, including in the famed slopes of Corton, Musigny (blanc) and Chambertin. Despite being more recently uprooted in favor of Chardonnay, Aligoté once boasted over 400 clones, categorized into two primary variations: Aligoté Verte, distinguished by its green hue and herbaceousness, and Aligoté Doré, radiantly golden in hue with an array of ripe citrus and fennel nuances. These variants were often co-planted, making their differentiation challenging, particularly because if Verte is managed at lower yields and fully ripened, it presents similarly to Doré. Nonetheless, this native variety adeptly conveys the quality of its terroir, is resistant to oidium and produces less sugar but more acidity relative to Chardonnay.

The allure of Aligoté continues to grow. In fact, Meursault AOP, which inspired California Chardonnay, currently awaits INAO (Institut National des Appellations d’Origine) approval for a 10-year trial to potentially incorporate Aligoté in Meursault village or Bourgogne appellation wines, with no more than 10% added into the final blend, lowering alcohol but adding acidic verve and freshness.

You May Also Like: Instead of Chasing Trends, These French Winemakers are Reviving Rare, Native Grapes

A vivid testament to the quality of wine this grape produces is the work of Les Aligoteurs–a collective of 68 members encompassing domaines and négociants throughout Burgundy. Formed in January of 2018 under the guidance of Philippe Delacourcelle, chef of Boisrouge, and in collaboration with winemakers Sylvain Pataille and Laurent Fournier, the group is steadfast in their commitment to elevating Aligoté’s quality and perception. Their focus extends particularly to key markets of emerging wine professionals, sommeliers and aficionados who crave purity and terroir expression. Despite Aligoté’s current modest share of 5% in the region’s vineyards, with no immediate anticipation of surge in production, their mission also encompasses the preservation of Aligoté plantings and an active commitment to research aimed at restoring diversity in clonal material.

“Many vineyards weren’t taken care of in the past,” says Aligoteur Pierre-Henri Rougeot. “But that’s what we try to do with Les Aligoteur…bring a new dynamic and say, ‘Take care of your Aligoté as you take care of your Chardonnay.’” Rougeot further explained the pivotal role of Aligoteurs rectifying market dynamics. Nearly 10-15 years ago, it was certain that winemakers were losing one euro per bottling of Aligoté; Chardonnay sold for up to five times more. Today, a bottle of Aligoté can fetch price points as high as premier cru Chardonnay, a testament to its comparative quality—its ability to celebrate the diversity of terroir, thoughtful vinification and aging potential. Aligoté is ready for a well-deserved return to the limelight.

This article originally appeared in the November 2023 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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Burgundy by Barge: An Unconventional Way to Enjoy a Classic Wine Region https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/travel/barging-in-burgundy/ Mon, 17 Oct 2022 17:48:50 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2022/10/17/barging-in-burgundy/ These luxury cruises are like no other, bringing the breath-taking countryside to life from the region's often forgotten canal. [...]

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Barge cruising through on a barge through Burgundy is nothing like any other cruise. It’s the Holy Grail of slow, peaceful travel for very small groups. On the canal there are no crowds, there’s plenty of freedom to explore, and it’s likely that the duck swimming alongside is moving at a faster clip.

The Burgundy Canal is a cultural masterpiece, yet car-bound visitors might not even know it exists. Draped on either side by rich vegetation, bucolic farmland and walkable tow paths, it preserves generations of history in its stone bridges and mechanical locks.

The canal was built to connect the River Yonne and the River Saône, to transport local products (including wine) from Dijon to Paris. Now it carries nothing but travelers, in barges refurbished into luxury mini-hotels or boats owned or chartered by independent cruisers.

Each of the nearly 200 locks along the 150-mile canal has a keeper’s house—though many are no longer occupied, they are still maintained by the French government and are sometimes used as holiday getaway homes. Without tourism, this slice of French culture would be a relic, forgotten to more modern forms of transport and travel.

Fall foliage along burgundy canal
Hotel Barge L’Impressionniste | Photo by European Waterways

“We literally creep along the canals at little more than walking pace,” says Derek Banks, founder of European Waterways, a luxury barge outfitter that’s been cruising since 1974. For travelers thirsty for immersion with ease, this is the ideal way to approach the rural countryside of one of the world’s finest wine regions in the company of wildlife, native plants, grazing cows and the occasional grandfather-and-grandson fishing team.

Barging with an operator often includes locally sourced cuisine and wine to match, in a well-appointed space that holds a small number of people who enjoy their own sleeping cabins but share common areas. Stops are made at locks, where passengers can easily disembark to bike, walk or explore villages. It can take around a week to travel a few dozen kilometers, so outfitters arrange trips to spots that are not directly along the canal—historic châteaux, medieval sites, family wineries, the Route des Grands Crus, local markets and towns such as Dijon and Beaune.

These icons are some Burgundy’s main appeal, but it’s the small details that become more evident from the barge. A wayward sheep dog that’s escaped his farmer might jump in for a swim, or a family on horseback might watch from a bridge as the barge slips gracefully underneath. Rare wildflowers, birds and animals share the countryside. The colors and textures of the season come alive, and a spring drizzle or evening sunset is more dynamic when reflected by a ribbon of streaming water.

These tiny signs of French culture would be missed from a car or train.

Related: 7 Luxury Train Vacations for Wine Lovers

Traveling by barge also allows for immersion in the daily French life as well as a slice of Burgundian history. Most barge chefs source cheese, bread, veggies and meats from the villages on or near the canal; many outfitters bring people to lesser-known spots that rely on visitors willing to step out of the typical Burgundy travel hit list and discover micro-producers. “Visiting local markets—and spending money—helps the stall holders after a tough couple of years,” says Banks.

Go Slow with These Outfitters

European Waterways (Operator)

With a long history and multi-vessel fleet moving through Burgundy, guests have a choice of barges, routes and experiences.

Great for: foodies and wine lovers who want to meet like-minded travelers.

Grand Victoria Cruises (Private Charter)

Reserve the entire barge directly with the operator, exclusively for private charters that can adapt to meet individual interests.

Great for: family and friend-group travelers in search of an elevated getaway.

Barge Lady Cruises (Agent)

This Chicago-based team has experience with a variety of barging options and will help guests choose from private and group operators.

Great for: people who want to compare barging options and get travel advice.

 

This article originally appeared in the November 2022 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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Burgundy Wine on a Budget: 5 Bottles to Try Now https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/burgundy-wine-on-a-budget-5-bottles-to-try-now/ Sat, 08 Oct 2022 00:48:24 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2022/10/07/burgundy-wine-on-a-budget-5-bottles-to-try-now/ You don't have to spend a fortune to enjoy terroir-driven burgundy. Learn how to look for value-oriented wines from this world-class region. [...]

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Burgundy, Bourgogne in French, may seem larger than life for all the attention it gets, but it’s actually quite a small slice of the wine world. Less than 5% of French wine production comes out of this treasured region, and only about one fifth of that gets exported to the eager U.S. market. It’s fair to say that demand places great tension on supply.

Realities on the ground, such as devastating spring frost and disease pressure, have put a double-digit dent in yields in some pockets of Burgundy, layering on the stress points. According to the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB), 2021 came in at about half the volume of a “normal” harvest—a result of a frost-filled spring followed by a cold, wet growing season. Tack on the other recent challenges for the global wine industry—disruptions in the supply chain, packaging material shortages and limitations due to the pandemic— and witness the complex business of pricing bottles of wine.

The odds may seem stacked against finding Burgundy at a reasonable price—but curiosity can lead to some incredible and authentic finds. And despite the limited quantities, Burgundy continues to offer top quality options at a range of prices. Though home to many “unicorn” treasures and blockbuster vintages, there are bottles of Burgundy for everyone.

Regional wines are the starting point in the quest for access, and about half of Burgundian wines fall into this category. Burgundy-based Stevie Bobès is a wine professional, guide and curator of a value-oriented wine club, Wine Ambassadeur. “Most of these entry level wines from any of the more than one thousand producers will offer the pleasure of enjoying wonderful Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines at lower price points,” says Bobès. He also recommends wines from the Mâconnais, located in the southernmost swath of Burgundy. Look for the words “Bourgogne” or “Mâcon” on the label. These terms may also be accompanied by a geographical indicator—or example, Bourgogne Épineuil or Mâcon Fuissé. The term “Burgundy” is a translation and isn’t used on labels.

The village-level category is also considered a sweet spot for value, and Bobès suggests that lesser-known areas in the Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais in the south, or Grand Auxerrois or even Chablis in the north offer promise. “Names such as Viré-Clessé, Saint-Véran, Montagny or Vézéley come to mind for whites,” he says. “Look to Irancy for reds, and Givry, Rully and Mercurey for both white and red wines.” Some of the villages are home to Premier Cru, which will be indicated by the name of the vineyard site (called a climat) on the label. Logically, this will increase the price in most instances.

Another way to enjoy the best of Burgundy on a budget is to consider unexpected categories. Crémant de Bourgogne white and rosé sparkling wine is made in the traditional method, and there are bottles available for under $30. There are also little pocket-plantings of unique grape varieties that add diversity to the buying options. A small portion of Burgundian cultivation is Aligoté—a vibrant and youthful white wine that has its own appellation and centuries of history in the region.

In Burgundy wine buying, consider that the appellation (rather than the producer) is generally the most significant identifier and will enjoy the most prominent spot on the label. If there is a particular producer that has caught your eye, consider seeking out another bottle from their range that comes from a less expensive location or category. “There are plenty of wines in the region that are accessible and value-oriented just waiting to be discovered and enjoyed,” says Bobès.

Bottles To Try

Bottle of Givry Burgundy wine / Photo by Tom Arena

Domaine Besson Givry Les Grands Prétans Premier Cru 2019; $48, 94 Points. Sourced from vines averaging 40 years in age and matured in a touch more new oak than this producer’s other Givry bottlings, Les Grands Prétans offers a marked increase of density and perseverance in its red-cherry, plum and raspberry palate. Although intensely fruity and sun-drenched, the wine is etched by complexities of earth, blossom and animal. Just approaching its peak, it will likely improve through 2029. —Anna Lee C. Iijima (Buy on Vivino)

Bottle of Mercurey Burgundy wine / Photo: Tom Arena

Domaine Levert-Barault Mercurey La Chassière Premier Cru 2019; $55, 93 Points. Perfumed notes of rose water and crisp black plums introduce this bright, fresh-fruited Pinot Noir. Supple in tannins and packed with juicy black cherry and berry flavors, it’s a thirst-quenching, immediately approachable wine elevated by a tinge of chalky minerality and a bristling spine of acidity. At peak now–2027. —ALI

Bottle of Irancy Burgundy wine / Photo: Tom Arena

Maison de la Chapelle Irancy ‘Les Beaux Monts’ 2019; $40, 93 Points. A shade riper and richer than the producer’s other, equally striking Pinot Noir bottlings, Les Beaux Monts offers juicy black cherry and raspberry flavors accented by whispers of rose petal and candied violet. It’s a lush, penetrating expression of Northern Burgundy in a hot vintage, framed with supple tannins and a lingering, smoky finish. Ready now, the wine should drink well through 2029. Editor’s Choice —ALI (Buy on Wine-Searcher)

Bottle of La Rully Burgundy wine / Photo by Tom Arena

Domaine de la Renaissance Rully ‘La Barre’ 2019; $50, 91 Points. This juicy, mouthwatering wine contrasts crisp bites of sour cherry and raspberry with spicy, smoky hints of roasted coffee bean and cacao. Held upright by firm, finely edged tannins, it’s a bit tight in youth but should open nicely from 2024 through 2027. —ALI (Buy on Wine-Searcher)

Bottle of Maison Roche Burgundy wine / Photo by Tom Arena

Maison Roche de Bellene Bourgogne Cuvée Réserve Pinot Noir 2019; $23. 90 Points. This is a fresh-fruited, easy-drinking Pinot Noir packed with cheeky red cherry and raspberry flavors edged by hints of spice and earth. Refreshing and slim despite the heat of the vintage, it’s a structured sip cut by tart hits of cranberry and cassis acidity. At peak now–2025. —ALI (Buy on Wine-Searcher)

This article originally appeared in the November 2022 issue of Wine Enthusiast magazine. Click here to subscribe today!

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Our 10 Favorite Burgundy Wines to Cellar (2021) https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/wine/best-burgundy-age-cellar/ Wed, 03 Nov 2021 15:03:43 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2021/11/03/best-burgundy-age-cellar/ With decadent notes of black plum and red cherry, here are 10 of the best age-worthy Burgundy wines that will mature perfectly in your cellar. [...]

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Burgundy, France produces some of the most sought-after wines in the world. Grand and Premier Cru  Pinot Noirs need time to age before blossoming into elegance. Vibrant acidity gives these wines decades to develop in the cellar allowing time for dense tannins to soften and integrate while maintaining fresh fruit character.

Here are 10 of the best cellar-worthy Burgundy wines to invest in for future enjoyment.

Château de Pommard 2018 Clos Marey-Monge Monopole (Pommard); $151, 96 points. Power and freshness collide in this voluptuous, sun-drenched Pinot Noir sourced from a blend of plots in Clos Marey-Monge, a walled monopole located at the base of the Pommard slope. It offers intensely rich, pulsating blackberry and blueberry flavors lifted by streaks of char, smoke and cut stone. With a bristling acidic edge and fine-grained but densely packed tannins, the wine should improve and gain further perfume and nuance from 2024–2038. Vivant Wines Inc. Cellar Selection. —Anna Lee C. Iijima

Domaine Bertagna 2018 Grand Cru (Clos Saint-Denis); $350, 95 points. This Grand Cru in the village of Morey Saint-Denis has produced a powerful, dense and bold wine, reflecting the concentration of the vintage. Rich and structured, the bold mixed berry flavors and smoky spice promise aging potential. Drink from 2026. Taub Family Selections. Cellar Selection. —Roger Voss

Domaine Pierre Gelin 2018 Clos de Meixvelle Monopole (Gevrey-Chambertin); $90, 95 points. Wisps of freshly picked violets and crisp black plums gain ripeness and concentration in this mineral Pinot Noir. Vinified via indigenous yeast and matured for 20 to 24 months in used oak, it’s penetrating in fruit yet sheer and crystalline, edged by a salty spray of crushed stone and fine-tipped tannins that linger on the finish. Beautiful already, the wine should improve through 2030 and hold further. Winebow Imports. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.

Joseph Drouhin 2019 Clos des Mouches Premier Cru (Beaune); $150, 95 points. This powerful, ripe Pinot Noir is a bold expression of the famed vineyard. Rich in extraction, the fleshy, velveteen sip is packed with black cherry and blueberry flavors accented by charred earth, crushed peppercorn and anise. Fine-grained but furry tannins are approachable young, but this solidly built wine should hit peak from 2024 through 2035 and hold much longer still. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. Cellar Selection. —A.I.

Albert Bichot 2019 Domaine du Pavillon Clos des Ursulines Monopole (Pommard); $89, 94 points. Dustings of crushed stone, ash and violet petals introduce this red-berried, satiny sip sourced from the southern end of Pommard near Volnay. Red-cherry and red-plum flavors on the palate are ripe but youthful and pure, accented by hints of fur and smoke and a lingering frame of fine-grained, sharply lingering tannins. It should approach peak by 2023 and improve through at least 2035. Albert Bichot USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I.

Edouard Delaunay 2018 Les Frémiers Premier Cru (Pommard); $120, 94 points. Sourced from vines adjacent to Les Frémiers climat in Volnay, this supple, decadently black-berried Pinot Noir shares the same smoky, truffly nuances and fresh-footed flair that you might expect there. It’s ripe but catapulted by a zesty spine of acidity. Soft, delicately charry tannins linger on the finish. While a bit tightly wound now, the wine should approach peak from 2023–2028 and hold further. Total Wine & More. Cellar Selection. —A.I.

Georges Glantenay 2019 Les Santenots Premier Cru (Volnay); $105, 94 points. From old vines, this structured wine has great concentration. The tension between the fruit and oak aging promises well for the future, giving the potential for richness and the velvet character that can come from this vineyard. Drink from 2024. Misa Imports. Cellar Selection. –R.V.

Domaine Lejeune 2019 Les Poutures Premier Cru (Pommard); $65, 93 points. Just below Les Rugiens and close to the village, this vineyard has produced a soft style for a Pommard. It emphasizes richness as much as structure, with full-bodied black fruits and a juicy aftertaste. Tannins show at the end, promising further aging. Drink from 2024. Misa Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.

Philippe Colin 2019 Santenay; $60, 93 points. Decadent notes of rum and toasted coconut accent ripe, rich black-cherry and plum flavors in this wine. A blend of Pinot Noir from the En Boichot and Les Prarons Dessus vineyards located in the periphery of Santenay’s Premier Cru site, the deeply concentrated red is framed by fine, silky tannins and bright acidity. Ready now, it should maintain peak through 2029. Cape Classics. —A.I.

Domaine Dominique Guyon 2018 Les Dames de Vergy (Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits); $30, 92 points. This rich, densely textured wine is impressively ripe. Its tannins are still young and will sustain further development. With plenty of red cherry fruitiness to balance the structure, it will age further. Drink from 2022. Taub Family Selections. Cellar Selection. –R.V.

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Burgundy Icon, Advocate and Mentor, Becky Wasserman, Dies https://www.wineenthusiast.com/culture/industry-news/becky-wasserman-obituary-wine/ Tue, 24 Aug 2021 21:56:37 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2021/08/24/becky-wasserman-obituary-wine/ Becky Wasserman was a titan in the wine industry. Her kind heart, authenticity and honesty, and love for the land will be remembered forever. [...]

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The wine world mourns a legend. Last weekend, Becky Wasserman-Hone, the iconic importer of Burgundian wine, died of a chronic respiratory illness.   

Wasserman had an outsized impact on the wine industry as a whole, and Burgundy in particular. Known for her caring, motherly touch, championship of lesser-known Burgundian domaines and unflinching integrity, Wasserman popularized the authentic tastes and terroir of Burgundy. 

In 1968, American-born Wasserman moved to the small Burgundy village of Bouilland, near Beaune. Her foray into wine began as a barrel broker for the François Frères Cooperage in Burgundy in 1976. She realized that she wanted to work more with wine itself, so she established her own import company, Le Serbet, named for one of the fields in Bouilland. (It’s now Becky Wasserman & Co.)  

Becky Wasserman / Photo Courtesy Michel Joly and Studio Hans Lucas

At Le Serbet, she was known for her selection and championing “the little guys,” according to Allen Meadows, a longtime friend and founder of Burghound.com.

“In baseball, there’s a term called ‘small ball,’ and instead of going for the home run, you do a lot of singles,” says Meadows. “She took little growers and enabled them to have a platform…It was a stroke of genius. It’s what I set out to do myself, and I was partially inspired by her. Now everyone looks for small growers because no one was doing it before Becky.” 

Meadows met Wasserman in 1997 and rented one of the small homes on her property for 16 years, spending five or six months of the year there.  

“She seemed to always give more than she got, and always tried to give a helping hand,” says Meadows. “That’s probably her enduring legacy in the greater wine world.” 

Daniel Johnnes, sommelier and founder of La Paulée de New York, a weeklong celebration of Burgundy’s wines, calls Wasserman a “trailblazer as a young woman in the late ’60s… in a field dominated by men.”   

One of the most enduring stories about Wasserman’s early days at Le Serbet illustrates her commitment to her community. One of her distributors went bankrupt but Wasserman wanted to ensure that she made good on her obligation to pay her growers, so she mortgaged her house. That display of integrity cemented her reputation in the industry. 

She successfully earned the trust of many of the finest vignerons in France, not an easy thing to achieve for the best of us, and Becky earned it every day by running a business with honor,” says Harmon Skurnik, president of Skurnik Wines & Spirits. “She has long set a good example for companies like ours, who came along later, demonstrating that one’s name on the back label can stand for quality and integrity. There is no doubt that the wine world—and the world in general—are better places because of the long and successful life and career of Becky Wasserman.” 

“The impact of her work was felt far and wide in just about every corner of the globe where people enjoy fine wine.” —Michael Skurnik, Skurnik Wines & Spirits

Michael Skurnik, CEO of Skurnik Wines & Spirits, shares Harmon’s esteem.   

I have known and admired Becky for nearly 40 years,” he says. “Her contributions to the wine world are legendary. As she was a tireless promoter and lover of wine, the impact of her work was felt far and wide in just about every corner of the globe where people enjoy fine wine. Becky’s presence will be sorely missed by so many.” 

Her work impacted generations of wine professionals, Johnnes says.  

“Later in life, Becky became a beacon and a mentor to scores of young people enthusiastic to learn about Burgundy.”  

Master Sommelier Andrea Immer Robinson agrees, calling Wasserman a mentor, connector and “humble trailblazer.”  

Wasserman’s famously immersive, weeklong Burgundy deep dives, dubbed the “Bouilland Symposia,” brought Burgundian vignerons, experts and aspiring vintners together to introduce and teach wine lovers the way of Burgundy through vineyard walks, cellar visits and convivial gatherings around the table.  

“The connection between Becky Wasserman and Burgundy was, and is, not a one-sided relationship,” says Ian Downey, executive vice president at Winebow Imports. “Both were profoundly changed by the introduction to the other… and the wine world is better for it. Her influence on Burgundy’s ever-evolving story is not likely to be fully understood by any one person, but I’d imagine she’d be ok with that.   

“Collectively, the international wine community celebrates her influence and dedication.” 

Wasserman is survived by her two sons, Peter and Paul Wasserman, and her husband, Russell Hone. 

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A Six-Bottle Master Class to Chardonnay https://www.wineenthusiast.com/basics/chardonnay-master-class/ Tue, 25 May 2021 15:30:34 +0000 https://www.wineenthusiast.com/2021/05/25/chardonnay-master-class/ One of the most versatile grapes in the world, Chardonnay can take on many forms. Consider this tasting cheat sheet to find your Goldilocks. [...]

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One of the most versatile grapes in the world, Chardonnay typically falls into two camps for wine drinkers: those who love it and those who hate it. For those who politely decline the variety, it’s usually because their first introduction was a cheap, mass-produced version that tasted like imitation popcorn butter.

But Chardonnay can take on many forms, from deliciously delicate sparklers to still wines that run the gamut from crisp and steely to robust and round.

While many American wine drinkers connect Chardonnay to California, its roots are in Burgundy, France. The grape is planted to nearly half of the region’s total vineyard area. Its expression varies as a result of the area’s range in climate, from cool northerly Chablis to more moderate temperatures in the Mâconnais to the south.

Burgundian winemakers paved the way for modern winemaking practices like malolactic fermentation and barrel aging that tend to give Chardonnay a full-bodied, oaky and buttery texture.

Those techniques found their way to America. The grape started to gain popularity, particularly in California, around the 1970s. Winemakers experimented quite a bit, and the American style of Chardonnay became defined largely as a high-alcohol, low-acid wine with minimal fruit expression and oodles of oak influence.

Today, California winemakers have moved away from the butter bombs of the 1980s. They now produce wines, both unoaked and oaked, that showcase the variety’s diversity when crafted in different parts of the state.

If you’re curious to understand the grape’s varying expressions and find the perfect Chard for your palate, dive into these matchups: unoaked versus oaked Chardonnay; warm-climate versus cool-climate Chardonnay; and Burgundy versus California. As you taste each wine, make sure to jot down any specific flavors or aromas that you experience.

And it’s fine if you can’t find the exact bottles we suggest. Your local wine retailer should be able to point you in the right direction of something similar.

Ripe Chardonnay grape bunch hanging on the vine with leaves in Western Australia.
A ripe Chardonnay bunch hangs on the vine in Western Australia. / Getty

Unoaked vs. Oaked Chardonnay

When it comes to these two types of Chardonnay, the biggest difference is that one has been fermented in stainless steel and the other fermented in oak barrels. While the average consumer may believe that California is only capable of making full-bodied and buttery wines, the truth is that Chardonnay which embodies rich oak and creamy texture can be found anywhere in the world.

Chile, Australia, Argentina, and of course, France, also use a number of winemaking techniques that include oak to add hints of vanilla and toast to Chardonnay.

When it comes to unoaked, lighter and zesty Chardonnay, stainless steel fermentations allow for the resulting wines to taste very crisp, clean and minerally. These offer typical flavors of green apple, lemon and pear.

What ultimately makes the difference between unoaked and oaked Chardonnay is the way they are made and aged. Winemakers can choose between new French or American oak for the wine to embody certain toasty and nutty flavors.

In addition to the type of oak used, timing is everything when it comes to oaked Chardonnay. It can be aged for as little as three months or as long as a year. It all depends on the style that the winemaker hopes to achieve.

Malolactic fermentation also takes place during oak barrel fermentation, which contributes the creamy flavor and texture that many people enjoy. With unoaked Chardonnay, fermentation happens in stainless steel tanks, which allows for the fruit character to shine bright.

The Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley in Sonoma County will showcase California Chardonnay at its best.

Unoaked vs. Oaked Chardonnay Flight

Wine 1: Choose two bottles from the same region, or possibly even the same producer, to highlight the differences in winemaking technique. For a non-wooded selection, aside for “unoaked,” look for other common descriptors like “steel” or “unwooded” on the label.

Wine 2: For the oaked selection from your region of choice, look for key words like “reserve,” “wooded” or “barrel fermented” on the label.

A sign that says Chardonnay in a vineyard with a mountain in the background in Franschhoek, South Africa.
A Chardonnay vineyard in Franschhoek, South Africa. / Getty

Cool Climate vs. Warm Climate Chardonnay

No matter where in the world a vine grows, it needs five things: heat, sunlight, carbon dioxide, water and nutrients from the soil. A wine region’s climate is defined by its annual pattern of temperature, sunlight and rainfall over the course of several years. Chardonnay expresses itself differently based on the type of climate where the grapes are grown.

In cool climates like the South Island of New Zealand, Chablis or Oregon’s Willamette Valley, Chardonnay will express itself generally with higher acidity, more citrus-fruit flavor and minerality. It will also be lower in alcohol and zesty on the palate. Lower temperatures allow the grapes to retain their natural acidity and produce a Chardonnay that’s lighter in body.

Grapes grown in warmer climates like California, South Africa, Australia and Spain will generally be lower in acidity and higher in alcohol, but they’ll bring forth richer, riper fruit flavors like pineapple, apple and lemon.

Cool- vs. Warm-Climate Chardonnay Flight

Wine 1: Choose a Chablis, which is an iconic example of cool-climate Chardonnay.

Wine 2: Select a Chardonnay from South Australia to taste a sun-soaked, warm-climate version.

Burgundy Chardonnay vs. California Chardonnay

These are the two regions most famous for Chardonnay production. Burgundy is known for its vast, varying appellations and pioneering winemaking techniques. California is known for its history of “butter bombs,” but now takes advantage of cool-climate areas to produce zestier, lighter-bodied wines.

A scenic view of the Village of Meursault in Burgundy, France.
A scenic view of the village of Meursault in the Côte d’Or, Burgundy, France. / Getty

What makes Chardonnay a great grape is its ability to adjust to a variety of soil types. In Burgundy, terroir can change over the course of small areas, which can create unique expressions of the grape. Winemakers in France produce a number of quality levels, or crus, to best showcase the fruit’s quality.

In the Golden State, altitude and vineyard aspect can play a major role in the grape’s exposure to the sun. It gives Chardonnay the opportunity to ripen and produce full-bodied wines that are high in alcohol.

Price can often help to determine the quality of a good white Burgundy or California Chardonnay, but it’s important to note where the wine was sourced. Regional wines, like those that are labeled Bourgogne, tend to be inexpensive, while bottlings from site-specific premiers or grands crus will be more expensive. For California Chardonnay, Napa Valley and Sonoma County will be the American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) to seek out for high-quality examples.

Burgundy vs. California Chardonnay Flight

Wine 1: A white wine from any of the regions in the Côte de Beaune will provide a benchmark example of Burgundian Chardonnay. Look for bottles from Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet.

Wine 2: The Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley in Sonoma County will showcase California Chardonnay at its best.

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