Rustic wines typically have higher levels of acidity than their opulent counterparts and showcase a crunchy sort of character with robust (and possibly mildly gritty) tannins, with a true sense of terroir. These rustic-style wines are less about oak aging and various post-fermentation techniques that help impart other flavors and tame tannins; they are more about location, climate and soil letting the vineyard and fruit do the talking. It’s like taking a hike on a cool, cloudy day through a rough and bumpy trail filled with fallen leaves and tree roots, as opposed to sitting in a warm hot tub at a five-star resort in the Swiss Alps. These wines often will feature aromas and flavors of wild or dried berries, herbs and various spices and have a prevalent earthy undertone. 

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A classic example of a rustic wine is Chianti, particularly those from traditional producers that are keeping the Old World style for their wines. Chianti wines are renowned for their rugged charm, with flavors of tart cherry, dried herbs, tobacco and dusty tannins. The searing acidity in Chianti makes it the perfect pairing for all those delicious Italian dishes that feature a marinara sauce, since the acidity in each balances out the other. (This is why Chianti is such a fantastic pizza night wine option.) 

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Cru Beaujolais is another wine that exudes rusticity. Unlike its light, fruity and easy-drinking buddy, Beaujolais Nouveau, these Gamay-based wines often display a terroir-driven undertone with bright red-fruit flavors, lively acidity and a distinct mineral and crunchy edge. This is another example of a wine that pairs perfectly with local fare, such as coq au vin or a perfectly prepped charcuterie board. 

So, if big, powerful and opulent wines like Napa Cabs or Australian Shiraz are your jam, then a light, crisp and gnarly Australian Zweigelt may not be up your alley. But that rustic Zweigelt may end up eliciting wine emotions that you never knew you had. The only way to find out is to give a wine like that a whirl and see how it makes you feel. 

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What is Dosage?

“It’s basically a blend of wine and sugar that’s unique to every producer,” says Raymond Ringeval, the global commercial director of Champagne Palmer. “The amount of sugar determines the dryness or sweetness of a finished bottle.”

Dosage has two primary components: reserve wine, which is sometimes an aged version of the same variety, plus sugar or another sweetener. It’s added right after riddling. When winemakers remove the yeast cells from the bottlenecks, they add the dosage then rest the bottles for at least three months.

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The exact ratio of sweetener-to-wine varies by producer, region, desired outcome and other factors. “Some Champagne houses purport to have their own proprietary dosage recipes,” says Davon D. E. Hatchett, a writer and wine-law attorney who runs the Instagram account @thebubbleista. These include “ingredients such as vintage Champagne, kirsch, beet sugar, Cognac or Port wine.”

Dosage is part of the arsenal of winemakers around the world, from producers working out of the limestone caves of Champagne to Cap Classique vintners on South Africa’s Western Cape. However, it’s possible to make bubbles without it. Sparkling wines that don’t undergo a second fermentation in the bottle, like pét-nats or Prosecco, don’t receive dosage. Additionally, some traditional-method sparkling winemakers opt not to sweeten their liqueur d’expedition to make drier styles of Champagne.

How Dosage Works

It’s tempting to think of dosage as a sweetener, akin to adding a splash of simple syrup to a glass of iced tea, but its effects are much more complex.  

“Dosage can completely transform a wine,” says Cédric Jacopin, the chef de caves at De Saint-Gall Champagne. “Through sugar concentration, it can influence perceived sweetness or, conversely, accentuate the wine’s acidity or bitter flavors. It can also affect the aromatic expression of the wine, both on the nose and on the palate.”

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Dosage impacts texture, too. Some winemakers calibrate dosage to create a richer, rounder mouthfeel, while others prefer to maintain a steelier style. 

They use dosage to accommodate vintage variables and the effects of aging, too. “A very mature and powerful vintage, like 2002 or 2012, will require less sugar than a more mineral and fresh vintage, like 2008 or 2013,” Jacopin says. “With aging, dosages generally decrease.” He might kick off a vintage with one level of dosage, for example, and adjust it two years later to accommodate the effects of again and maintain house style.

Dosage is Especially Important Now

As the climate and consumer tastes change, dosage is especially vital to how winemakers fine-tune their bottles. 

“One of the consequences of climate change is the increased maturity of grapes at harvest,” Ringeval says. Warmer temperatures mean that grapes in a historically cool region like Champagne contain more sugar right when they’re picked. As a result, wines made with those grapes typically require less dosage to balance them out. “We’ve gradually reduced dosage of our non-vintage brut reserve wines to adapt to the overall ripeness we’ve noted over the years,” he adds.

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Drier wines are more popular now than in previous years, so winemakers are inclined to release more brut, extra brut, brut nature and zero dosage bottlings. If you’re staring at a wall of labels at a wine shop, it might be helpful to break down those terms numerically: brut sparkling wines contain up to 12 grams per liter (g/L) of sugar; extra brut up to six g/L; and brut nature or zero dosage wines have less than three g/L and no additional sugar.

“Some sippers claim that zero dosage is akin to drinking Champagne in the purest form, while others claim it to be too bone dry and austere to be enjoyable,” Hatchett says. But, at the end of the day, “it’s really a palate preference.”

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While a wine may be completely dry by definition, it may not feel dry. Like Carter mentioned, many drinkers equate ‘dryness’ to sensory characteristics, like oak presence or the absence of ripe fruit notes. Other flavors in a dry wine may mimic sweetness: ripe, juicy fruit, bright acids and subtle tannins.  

So, how do you understand dryness in white wine? Below, we got sommeliers and winemakers to help you unpack the often-misused term. 

What Does Sweetness Mean? 

“Without getting too into chemistry, fermentation is when a bacteria (yeast) eats sugar and produces alcohol,” explains Colin Hofer, general manager of Adorn Bar & Restaurant. “When all the sugar is gone, the bacteria has nothing else to eat and it dies, leaving a dry wine with an absence of sugar.” 

This is why many pros, like Jean-Benoît Issele, the chef-sommelier of Apéritif at Viceroy Bali, define dryness in wine by the length of fermentation. “The longer the process, the less natural sugars remain in the grapes,” he explains. “In a finished wine, this means the wine presents a dry taste. With sweeter wines, the fermentation process is shorter, resulting in more residual sugar in the grapes.” 

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Riesling 

Bryce Faucheaux, wine director of Justine in New Orleans, finds Riesling is an excellent example of how to understand sweetness. Depending on style, “Riesling can be a sweet, botrytis-affected dessert wine from the Mosel in Germany, or it can be dry and mineral-driven from Alsace in France.” 

If you search for a dry (or trocken) Riesling, you’ll be rewarded with a wildly food-friendly wine. “Riesling is my favorite grape, so I seek out a lot of bone-dry German Rieslings,” says Carter. “Those will be naturally high in acid and that combination makes for a perfect food wine in almost any situation.” 

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Stirm 2020 Old Vine Wirz Vineyard Riesling (Cienega Valley)

Hollowed-out pear and orange peel aromas make for a unique and compelling nose on this bottling from a historic vineyard farmed by fourth-generation vintner Pat Wirz. The palate zips with energetic acidity through flavors of lime and more orange rind. 91 points. — Matt Kettmann

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Mönchhof 2019 Riesling (Mosel)

Bold dashes of white pepper, ash and crushed stone go toe-to-toe with scintillating nectarine and grapefruit flavors here. Semi dry and richly extracted, it’s a powerfully ripe yet light-bodied Riesling balanced neatly by a brisk undertow of acidity. Best now–2025. 90 points. — Anna Lee C. Iijima

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Pewsey Vale 2016 The Contours Museum Reserve Single Vineyard Estate Riesling (Eden Valley)

Intensely aromatic, this museum release Riesling, from old vines on a cool site, deftly demonstrates how excellently this variety ages. Honey roasted almonds, kerosene, lime oil and candied ginger progress to dry, concentrated palate. Long, harmonious and fresh, it tingles with still-racy acidity and heaps of lemon-lime and floral flavors. Drinking beautifully now but shows no sign of tiring. 94 points. — Christina Pickard

$42.99 Wine.com

 
Gewurztraminer 

Gewurztraminer is a shape-shifting grape. It can be used for hyper-sweet iterations with blossoming notes of sweet peach and lychee, or bone-dry wines with robust body, rich floral notes, a highly aromatic nose and low acidity (qualities which can trick drinkers into assuming the wine is sweet). Most frequently, Gewurztraminer is off-dry with a touch of sweetness. 

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Lula 2022 Gewurztraminer (Anderson Valley)

This wine is bright, lively and lush with kiwi, pineapple, white nectarine and white peach. These intertwine with white pepper, chili flake, cumin, vanilla and lime zest, bringing a savory yet zippy expression to the finish. Pairings include sushi and curries from across the globe. 90 points. — Tonya Pitts

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Champagne 

Champagne is one of the easiest categories to navigate in terms of dryness: most bottles are labeled to indicate sugar levels. The driest are “brut nature,” “brut sauvage” and “zero-dosage,” all of which are bone-dry with no added sugar (“dosage “refers to adding sugar). “Extra brut” is one step down on the dryness scale with no sugar added during dosage; however, unlike the previously mentioned bone-dry Champagnes, can contain up to six grams of sugar. This is followed by “brut,” the most common style of Champagne on the market, which boasts just a hint of sweetness. “Doux” (very sweet) sits on the opposite side of the sugar spectrum.  

Danya Degen, general manager of Meli in Washington D.C., advises drinkers to consider how they enjoy tartness when buying extra brut Champagne. “If you don’t love biting into a lemon or green apple, you won’t like a brut zero Champagne,” says Degen. “You might appreciate a little bit more fruit and sugar, like you’d find in a Brut.”

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Billecart-Salmon NV Extra Brut (Champagne)

The low dosage of this wine reveals the richness of the delicious fruit. Its acidity is well balanced with the white fruits, mineral texture and pure, crisp aftertaste. This delicious wine will benefit from a few more months in bottle. Drink from 2019. 88 points. — Roger Voss

$81.99 Wine Searcher

Pol Roger NV Pure Extra Brut (Champagne)

Almost bone dry, this Champagne brings out the beautiful fruit in the blend. It’s crisp with brightness, with a fine tang of citrus behind it. Drink this well-textured wine now. 92 points. — R.V.

$66.81 Saratoga Wine

Vincent Couche 1999 Sensation Brut Nature (Champagne)

The Champagne, very mature, is soft and certainly ready to drink. Its old Pinot Noir flavors have a strong toasty character that brings in tight acidity. Drink this powerful wine now. 93 points. — R.V.

$145 Leon & Sons

Sauvignon Blanc 

Sauvignon Blanc often feels incredibly dry and there are a few reasons why: standard Sauvignon Blanc is medium-bodied, giving a bit of weight and body to the wine. This is always balanced out by acidity—mouth-puckering and grapefruit-driven when the wine hails from warmer climates like New Zealand, and flinty and savory when made in cooler locales like Sancerre in France’s Loire Valley. While most Sauvignon Blanc is made as a dry, still wine, sweet versions are common, including many Sauternes, the noted Bordelaise dessert wine that is often blended with Sauvignon Blanc.

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Bollini 2022 Sauvignon Blanc Sauvignon Blanc (Vigneti delle Dolomiti)

This sun-drenched alpine wine lifts out of the glass with aromas of citrus, white peach, and a hint of fresh-cut grass. Vibrant flavors of grapefruit, ripe pineapple, and a crushed stone flow off the palate, culminating in a refreshing and bright finish. 86 points. — Jeff Porter

$17.44 Saratoga Wine

Frey 2022 Sauvignon Blanc (North Coast)

This light-bodied, simple Sauv Blanc has a little spritz to the palate that gives an extra dose of energy alongside the chirpy-high acid. Enjoy notes of cut grass, water lily, lychee, rose water and white grape. 87 points. — Stacy Briscoe

$11.99 Gary’s Wine

Jules Taylor 2023 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough)

Leaning on the green veg side of the fence, this is a bombastic-yet-harmonious combo of freshly sliced green bell pepper, string bean, seashell, lime granita and passion fruit aromas. There’s lively acidity and some lovely texture to boot. 91 points. — C.P.

$18.99 Wine.com

Malvasia 

Malvasia, one of Italy’s most important white grapes, can be found in both dry and sweet styles such as Vin Santo or Madeira. When finished in a dry style, Malvasia is wonderfully aromatic and lifted. “I find Malvasia tends to have aromas ranging from tangerine, jasmine, apricot and quince, to tamarind and Earl Gray tea,” says Bruce Devlin, who works with Malvasia at Ballentine Vineyards in Napa Valley. “Malvasia tends to have a low pH and good acidity. It’s crispier than your typical Napa Valley white wines!” He appreciates Malvasia’s ability to cut through the spice and richness in Thai food and the char of grilled octopus. 

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Schiopetto 2018 Malvasia (Collio)

Yellow spring flower, Meyer lemon and white stone fruit aromas form the delicate nose along with a whiff of thyme. On the savory, vibrant palate, hazelnut and bread dough notes accent ripe yellow pear and white peach before a tangy mineral close suggesting briny oyster shell. 90 points. —Kerin O’Keefe

$24.95 Only Italian Products

Chardonnay 

While almost all Chardonnay is made in a dry style, the grape’s prevailing characteristics can vary from vintner to vintner. Some are bone-dry and rich, while some Chardonnay showcases fruity notes, such as apple or lemon zest. When Chardonnay is aged in oak, those fruit characteristics turn into notes of vanilla or toast. 

Wine Enthusiast recommends:

Château de Fuissé 2020 Le Clos Monopole Premier Cru (Pouilly-Fuissé)

A brilliant wine full of Meyer lemon, acacia, sweet butter, vanilla and flaky salt aromas. The palate offers a beautiful melding of ripe lemon skins, honeysuckle, sweet spices and brown butter. Uplifting acidity elongate these notes through the finish, creating an elegant expression for this textured wine. 93 points. — Anna-Christina Cabrales

$129.99 Wine.com

Bouchaine 2021 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros-Napa Valley)

This plump, buttery, full-bodied wine is broad and mouthfilling. It exudes delicious butterscotch, vanilla bean and baked apples all the way through a lingering, pastry-like finish. 94 points. — Jim Gordon

$70 Bouchaine

Madson 2021 Misty Gulch Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains)

Tightly alkaline aromas of chalk and lime pith meet with crushed sandstone and a hint of citrus on the nose of this bottling. The palate is all about the firm structural grip, which weaves through flavors of almond and lemon peel. 93 points. — M.K.

$39.95 Vintage Wines LTD.

What Does it Mean When a Recipe Calls for a ‘Dry White Wine’? 

The same rules for pairing wine with a meal factor into using it in recipes. “The nice thing about dry white wines is that they are so flexible in terms of food,” says Carter. “You can pair them with fatty foods because the acid and tannin will stand up to meat or cut into the richness of a cheese or dessert. You can pair them with lighter foods—they won’t overwhelm delicate flavors like oysters or roasted vegetables.” 

If you’d prefer to incorporate white wine into the dish instead of alongside it, dry wine is equally versatile. Use dry wine for deglazing and making pan sauces, braising larger portions of meat or reducing liquids. 

The biggest factor to consider: cooking wine concentrates its flavor. Sweet white wines will get sweeter and wines with driving acidity will only get more tart. (The same guidelines go for reds: avoid overly oaked bottles or intensely jammy or floral characteristics, which will only get more concentrated and bitter as they cook.) 

When choosing a dry wine for cooking, a good rule of thumb is if it’s good enough to drink, it’s suitable for your food. But compared to your drinking wines, you don’t have to be as discerning with cooking wines—something under $20 will certainly do. 

The post What, Exactly, Is a Dry White Wine? appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

“Adding wine to barriques after pressing, fermentation and clarification impacts aromatics, richness and pure varietal expression as it ages,” says Kyle South, the lead sommelier at three-Michelin-starred Addison in San Diego. 

While “barrique” is the French word for barrel, in winemaking the term usually refers to a particular shape and size. It is relatively tall with thinner staves than most other barrels. Wine labels may tout terms like “aged in barrique” or “barrique-aged.” 

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That said, outside France, the word “barrique” is often used to describe all manner of wooden barrels. “In Germany and Italy, for example, the word has been closely and emotively associated with those who employ barrel maturation in small, new oak rather than traditional cask aging in botti, large, old wooden casks,” reveals The Oxford Companion to Wine.

Beyond its mechanical benefits, the original Bordeaux barrique’s ubiquity can be attributed to its storied track record. “It originated in Bordeaux, so it carries prestige,” says Gabriella Borg Costanzi, wine and service director at Le Crocodile in New York. “And therefore has a long history of success.”

What Is a Barrique Used For? 

Traditionally, a barrique holds 225 liters of wine, making it relatively smaller than many other barrels and casks used for wine aging and maturation. This holds significance for a wine’s flavor and texture: The smaller the barrel, the more the wine interacts with the surface area of the barrel, thus producing a greater oak influence. 

A barrique’s porousness can translate to a gentle micro-oxygenation. “Barriques allow for oxygen ingress so the wine develops ‘tertiary’ aromas and flavors, like honey, caramel, dried fruits (whites), raisins, earth, mushroom and leather [in reds],” says Borg Costanzi. “This also helps soften tannins.” A barrique also imparts “oak tannins,” particularly if it’s made of new oak. Tannins, a group of bitter, mouth-coating compounds found in many plants, give a wine its structure. 

The impact of micro-oxygenation cannot be understated. “Gentle and constant oxygen exposure makes for good stability in the finished wine,” explains Borg Costanzi. “It can also help stabilize color.”

What Is a Barrique Made Out of?

Barriques are traditionally made of oak, but the variety therein is expansive. “The types of oak barriques can range from Canadian oak in Niagara wine country [to] Hungarian oak, French oak and American oak,” says South. “All have differences.” 

Just like aging duration and barrel size, oak type “will impact the softness or elegance of the wine,” says South. “For example, coconut and dill aromatics may become present in American oak or classic examples of Rioja.”

Which Wines Are Aged in Barriques? 

A wide variety of wines are finished and softened in barriques, but you’re more likely to see some than others. Will Taylor, sommelier at Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels in New York, notes that you’ll often see Bordeaux and styles of wine influenced by Bordeaux aged in barriques.

“For the relatively high tannin compounds in classic Bordeaux varieties, new and used wood barriques augment the aromatics in the wine and simultaneously help tame the tannins, which all can ultimately give the resulting wines more complexity and help them age gracefully once they are bottled,” he says.

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South, who helps oversee the Addison’s 10,000-bottle cellar, cites Chardonnay in Chablis as an example of the impact of barrique-aging. “The Grand Cru Les Clos by William Fevre has been aged in oak, adding a depth of richness, where village examples or Premier Crus highlight no aging in barriques classically,” he says. “Pinot Noir in Burgundy is another great example where one could see a barrique used to soften, but not drastically change the varietal, so it still shows a pure expression of Pinot Noir.” 

You’ll also find grappas aged in barriques, called “grappa barrique” or “barricata.” By law, the Italian spirit must be aged in barrels (of any size) for at least 12 months in order to call itself “aged.” Tequilas, whiskeys, rums, gins and many other types of liquors can also be matured in barriques. 

What Does “Barrique” Mean on a Wine Bottle?

If you see “aged in barrique” or “barrique-aged” on a label, there are certain things you can expect.  

“If you see barrique on a bottle, expect that a winemaker wants elegance, complexity, a touch of weight on the palate,” says South. “I think of hand-crafted compared to wild.”

Often, the term “barrique” is associated with new oak. “As ‘new wood’ became more of a desired flavor than the actual aging technique of barrel-aging, this became associated with the use of the term ‘barrique’—so not just aging in the vessel, but aging in a new wood vessel for specific oak flavors,” says Taylor. “In the ‘80s, ‘90s and 2000s, you could say it was all the rage. Everyone from Barolo to California was using barrique to up their flavors and ultimately appeal to critics and consumers alike.”

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These wines are not your big, broad-shouldered bottles. However, elegant wines do not have to be light-bodied. They do tend to be more restrained and often will not show you all they have to offer in the first sip. It’s an overall vibe as much as a mouthfeel, which includes the texture on the palate—like the way a fine cashmere sweater feels on your skin, or the sensation of hearing Yo-Yo Ma play Bach’s soft, soothing Cello Suite No. 1. But one thing all elegant wines must possess is true balance and searing acidity, which sets these restrained wines in contrast to their opulent and powerful counterparts.

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“I find elegant wines to be gracefully refined, and to express a complex, yet well-structured, profile,” says Victor Dedushaj, wine director for New York City’s Benjamin Steakhouse Group. It takes time to achieve this level of nuance and finesse, he explains. “I feel that young wines, even when showcasing great qualities from the get-go, need at least a few years of bottle age before they can be deemed elegant.”

Few wines embody elegance more than the white wines of Burgundy. Take a premier cru Meursault, for example. These Chardonnays are fully equipped with delicate yet complex flavors, often showcasing notes of white flowers, citrus and a nuanced minerality. These dynamic elements create a beautiful and complex mouthfeel that lingers on the palate.

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The Nebbiolo-based wines from Piedmont (Barolo and Barbaresco in particular) provide another exemplary illustration of the term. These wines are revered for their graceful combination of power and subtlety. Those classic dried red fruit aromas, surrounded by the notes of tar and roses, and a palate that seamlessly integrates the classic combination of robust tannins and vibrant acidity, boast elegance from start to finish.

The result is a wine that may be a bit restrained when young, but evolves gracefully over time—showcasing the inherent finesse that the wines of this region inherently possess.

In summary, elegant wines are an integral component of any well-curated wine cellar. You certainly won’t regret adding several to your collection.

The post What Does ‘Elegance’ Mean in Wine? appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

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Opulence in wine is often associated with a profound depth of flavor. A wine’s opulence often will derive from the combination of a rich, creamy texture with concentrated fruit flavor and balanced notes of toasty oak and spice. Then, a lingering finish kicks in that can go on for minutes.

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The term certainly evokes sumptuous language from those familiar with it. “Opulence reflects on an ample spectrum of quality factors, [including] terroir expression,” says Fernando Silva, advanced sommelier and wine director for the Glen Arbor Golf Club in Bedford Hills, New York. “The balance of aromas or bouquet, oak usage and [more] are amplified by the grace of the winemaker’s gentle touch.”

These wines are often crafted from grapes of the highest quality, sourced from vineyards with optimal terroir. The vast majority of opulent wines hail from the world’s warmest wine regions, as heat is required to bring out robust fruit notes, higher levels of alcohol and firm yet velvety tannins.

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Most opulent wines are described as such in their youth. But they are well-suited for oak aging, too, as they have higher levels of fruit concentration, tannin and alcohol. This further contributes to the feeling of richness on the palate. As long as acidity—another component that contributes to an opulent mouthfeel—is there to provide balance, these bottles can evolve and improve in the cellar for years.

The bottom line? If you have ever been floored by the plush feel of a young, powerful, tannic Napa Cab or an expressive, luxurious, dense and full-bodied Amarone, then chances are you have experienced opulence in wine. Consider this your signal to start using the word “opulent” at the wine bar.

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To earn the moniker Cognac, this eau-de-vie must be distilled from grapes and aged in French oak barrels for a minimum of two years. Of course, the classifications go even deeper with a number of terms that indicate the minimum age of the brandy that you find inside a bottle. One of the most popular is VSOP.

But what exactly does this ubiquitous acronym mean? We’ve got you covered with the full details—and which bottles to buy.

What Does VSOP Stand For?

VSOP is an acronym that means “Very Superior Old Pale,” and it indicates that the eau-de-vie has been aged for a minimum of four years. There can be much older eau-de-vie in the blend, but the youngest must have spent at least four years in oak barrels. Some people mistakenly believe that VSOP means “Very Special Old Pale,” according to Alexandre Gabriel, Ferrand Cognac owner and master blender. That’s untrue.

“It became part of French regulation in 1983 [with] the Cahier des Charges, the official AOC Cognac regulation,” he says. “The reason it’s in English is because in the 19th century, the first market for Cognac was Great Britain.”

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But the abbreviation and designation came about well before it was regulated by the French government. According to Bénédicte Hardy, international brand ambassador and fifth-generation family member of Hardy Cognac, the term VSOP was first recorded in 1946 but indicated a younger age then. “At the time, three years old was the minimum age,” she says. “Slowly but surely, between 1946 and 1983, VSOP evolved to be what it is today: minimum age of four years.”

Does VSOP Indicate Quality?

In American whiskey, the bottled-in-bond designation means that the liquid meets specific criteria including a minimum age (four years), specific proof (100) and place and time of distillation. With Cognac, a designation like VSOP is a similar assurance of the quality.

“The very precise specifications for Cognac govern each stage of its production, guarantee and protect its quality, and the name of the product which alone has the right to call itself Cognac,” says Dan Nicolaescu, certified Cognac educator with the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC).

Hardy adds that strictly enforcing age designations was an attempt to put Cognac at the forefront of the brandy category by indicating that it stands out in terms of regulations—making this French spirit a benchmark of quality. While the term “VSOP” also appears on some American brandies, there is no actual law governing its usage.

How Does VSOP Cognac Differ from Other Cognacs?

Taste is entirely subjective, but most experts agree that VSOP Cognac is more refined than VS (“very special”), which is aged for at least two years. That’s because with VSOP, that extra time spent in the barrel really starts to show itself in the eau-de-vie, bringing richer, more complex flavors to the palate–especially given that many VSOP Cognacs have been aged for longer than the minimum requirement of four years.

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Just like whiskey or wine, the more time Cognac or any other brandy spends in a barrel, the more color and flavor the wood imparts to the spirit. Gabriel says that while each Cognac house is different, overall VS has a more straightforward character, while VSOP starts to develop complexity.

“You have a hint of dry fruit that [shows on the] nose,” he says. “You don’t have that fresh grapey-ness as much, [which is] delicious in VS. You’re going to have slightly dry raisin notes starting to show, and then vanilla from the barrel… and beautiful floral notes.” Hardy adds that VSOP Cognac has a longer finish, along with a fuller mouthfeel and notes of sweet almond and dried apricot.

How Should You Drink VSOP Cognac?

Like any other spirit, you should drink VSOP Cognac any way you like. That being said, VSOP has enough age on it to enjoy sipping neat or over a large ice cube, but it also works wonderfully in classic cocktails like a Sazerac, Old Fashioned or sidecar.

8 VSOP Cognacs to Drink Right Now

Normandin Mercier 7 VSOP

This delicious and delicate Cognac opens with a distinctly nutty aroma. The palate unfolds pecan and almond, plus vanilla sweetness that lingers into the complex finish. Subtle white flower and pear mingle with ginger and clove on the graceful exhale. 97 Points — Kara Newman 

$70 Wine-Searcher

A. de Fussigny VSOP Grande Champagne Cognac

Vanilla and caramel aromas show on the nose. Initially, cocoa and vanilla coat the palate, but tinges of dried dates and violet emerge on the gentle exhale. Clove and black pepper brace up the finish. 95 Points — K.N. 

$70 Total Wine & More

Camus Borderies VSOP Single Estate

Bold vanilla bean and peach nectar on nose and palate are layered with hints of maple and caramel. The velvety, toasty finish is accented with baking spice and a hint of orange peel. Made exclusively with grapes from the producer’s vineyards in the Borderies appellation. 94 Points — K.N.

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Courvoisier Cognac VSOP

Look for a dark amber hue and restrained aroma. The soft, warming palate opens with red fruit, leading into elongated caramel and hazelnut tones, plus a hint of baking spice. Sip or mix.  93 Points — K.N.

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Godet Cognac VSOP

Nutty, honeyed tones perfume this Cognac. The palate echoes honeycomb and roasted nuts, layering that with a whiff of toasted brioche and a zippy lemon-peel note, before finishing with gentle baking spice. 93 Points — K.N.

$ Varies Liquor Barn

Residence Cognac VSOP

The rich caramel aroma is coupled with a hint of red fruit. Robust vanilla leads into traces of cocoa powder, sandalwood and grapefruit peel, plus an earthy finish laced with nutmeg and ginger. Certified organic. 92 Points — K.N.

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Cognac Frapin VSOP

Initial caramel and oak aromas open to a more red-apple scent. The brisk palate shows some vanilla, but it’s light, underscored by another red-apple note. Vanilla treads lightly on top. A quick baking-spice finish suggests nutmeg, cinnamon and clove. There’s also apple butter, with a vanilla-cream exhale. 92 Points — K.N.

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Merlet Cognac VSOP

Rich caramel and toasted almond lead the nose. Drying tannins and alcohol warmth show up front. Adding water unlocks dried date and fig notes, plus a hint of cocoa powder and clove heat on the exhale. 91 Points — K.N.

$ Varies Total Wine & More

Why You Should Trust Us

All products featured here are independently selected by our team, which is comprised of experienced writers and wine tasters and overseen by editorial professionals at Wine Enthusiast headquarters. All ratings and reviews are performed blind in a controlled setting and reflect the parameters of our 100-point scale. Wine Enthusiast does not accept payment to conduct any product review, though we may earn a commission on purchases made through links on this site. Prices were accurate at the time of publication.

The post What Does ‘VSOP’ Mean for Cognac? appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Winemakers and viticulturists are quick to praise the benefits of vines that have been rooted in the soil for a significant period of time. Many claim the fruit that hangs from older vines has the potential to create wines with deeper flavors and more nuance than can be found in grapes of younger, more productive vines.

“There’s nothing like an old wine from an old vineyard,” says Phil Coturri, a winemaker and pioneer of organic and biodynamic farming in California. “Age is the greatest complexity.”

Yet what constitutes an “old vine” is incredibly murky and differs from winemaker to winemaker and region to region. Fortunately, over the past decade or so, leading experts have begun creating their own classifications to help wine buyers understand what they’re drinking.

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How Old Are “Old Vines”?

There is no legal definition for what is an “old vine.” In France, one producer may consider 20-year-old vines as vieilles vignes, while another may use the term for vines that are older than 70. South Africa’s Old Vine Project certifies vineyards that are 35 years and older.

Australia’s Barossa region is the only zone in the world with some semblance of an official definition, but it’s a voluntary designation and therefore has limited influence. Here, the Old Vine Charter classifies “old vine” as those that are at least 35 years old. The charter goes on to define “Survivor” vines as those that have made it past 70 years, “Centenarian” vines as those over 100 years old and “Ancestor” vines as those over 125 years old.

“Most people make the wine from these vineyards as single-vineyard wines,” says Annabel Mugford, special projects consultant for Barossa Australia. “If they are blended, whatever is the youngest vine in the blend dictates what category it goes into.”

Though there are no regulations regarding labeling in the Barossa, the organization does monitor to ensure that winemakers aren’t claiming that a bottle is made from Ancestor Vines or one of the other classifications, when it’s actually not.

On the other side of the planet, California’s Historic Vineyard Society maintains a Registry of Heritage Vineyards. To earn a spot on the list, a currently-producing Golden State vineyard must boast an original planting date at least 50 years ago, with a minimum of one-third of the producing vines traced back to that initial cultivation.

The half-century mark was chosen as California’s cut-off was partly inspired by the fifty-year rule in American historic preservation, which stipulates that historically-significant properties younger than fifty years are usually deemed eligible for the National Register of Historic places. The decision was also influenced by changes in wine growing that were happening 50 years prior to the foundation of the nonprofit organization in 2011.

“The 1960s is when the way vines were planted started to change with trellising and, later, drip irrigation,” says winemaker Tegan Passalacqua, one of the founders of the Historic Vineyard Society. “Before that all vines [in California] were head-trained and dry-farmed.”

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How Do “Old Vines” Differ from Young Vines?

No matter where old vines are found, what sets them apart from their younger brethren are their deep roots, which can draw nutrients and groundwater far beneath the earth’s surface. This helps them to adapt to annual weather variations and other natural events without human intervention and, its proponents believe, express the surrounding terroir on a deeper level.

“Part of the celebration of old vines throughout the world is that they were planted before drip irrigation,” says Passalacqua. “The vines were really able to see the seasons as they came.”

Young vines, on the other hand, tend to be vigorous and highly productive up until around 15 to 20 years. Depending upon how they’re pruned and maintained, yields then often start to decline. Most wineries rip them out and replant to ensure they’re getting as much fruit as possible.

Though it’s far from the norm, Dr. Dylan Grigg, a viticulture consultant who studies old vines, has found that the opposite can be true for properly-maintained old vines. “We found in the Barossa that older vines had more fruit in some cases,” he says. These vines, which were producing quality fruit past the 20 or even 30 year mark, had likely been carefully looked after, were well selected and had been planted in a fitting location. All of this helped the vines’ ability to weather stress and changes in their surroundings.

Another reason old vines can be more resilient than younger ones? They have the potential to store more carbohydrates, which can potentially buffer environmental shifts like heatwaves, frosty springs and droughts.

“Old vines iron out the ups and downs of the season,” says Griggs. “They stick to it, in terms of yield and growth.”

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Do Old-Vines Wines Taste Better?

Most wine professionals agree that old-vine wines are more complex with better color and higher acidity.

There’s a lot of speculation as to why this is the case. Many believe it’s related to the smaller size of berries produced on old vines, which are thought to contain a higher ratio of tannins. However, Grigg has actually found that some older vines actually boast larger berries than younger vines, which complicates this narrative.

The old vines that produce larger berries do so “perhaps because they’re less stressed,” he suggests, a result of the time they’ve had to adapt to climate and growing conditions.

According to Grigg’s studies, tannin levels are generally about the same in old and young vines when they are of the same varietal and grown in the same place. However, sensory panels have shown that wines made from the fruit of older vines tend to have more red fruit notes, while younger vines lead to wines with more blue fruit notes. Still, these differences are hard to break down scientifically.

“There’s something in there that our palates can pick up on,” says Grigg. “It’s like there are more pixels in older vines than younger vines.”

Best U.S.

Birichino 2022 Old Vines Besson Vineyard Grenache (Central Coast)

This young bottling will have a long cellar life, thanks perhaps to the old-vine attributes. Aromas of amaro-like myrtle and eucalyptus leaf meet with stewed strawberry and raspberry on the nose. The palate is loaded with acid, chalky in tannins, and spicy in cracked white pepper, with a core of pomegranate and black raspberry fruit. Drink the wine now through 2032. Cellar Selection. 94 Points — Matt Kettmann

$ Varies Wine.com

Lynmar Estate 2021 Old Vines Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley)

Deep, ripe, dark plums and spiced cherries give a fascinating array of fruity, spicy, toasty nuances to this well-balanced and energized wine. Made from grapes of nearly 50-year-old Swan-clone vines, the wine’s moderate tannins and lively acidity add to its freshness and appetizing bite. Best through 2031. Cellar Selection. 97 Points — Jim Gordon

$ Varies Finewinehouse.com

Carol Shelton 2020 Wild Thing-Old Vine Zinfandel (Mendocino)

A classic that every Zin lover should keep in their stash. Notes of black and blue fruits intertwine with oak-infused spices. Palate offers a mouthful of tannins and modest acidity. Incorporates Carignane, Petite Sirah and a few other reds into the mix. 88 Points — Stacy Briscoe

$ Varies Wine.com

OVR NV Old Vine Red (California)

This simple, balanced red blend offers notes of grape jelly, licorice, blackberry jam, violet potpourri and toasted wood. Soft, plush tannins and a balanced acidity hold everything together. 88 Points — S.B.

$ Varies Wine.com

L’Ecole No. 41 2022 Old Vines Chenin Blanc (Yakima Valley)

This is a true Washington wine classic that is also a spectacular value. Gravenstein apple and lemon verbena aromas swirl about your head as notes of river stones and white pepper try to sneak up on you. There’s some body here, with a rich texture and flavors like grilled lemons, Bosc pears and a lemon granita. Best Buy.  92 Points — Michael Alberty

$ Varies Total Wine & More

Best French

Domaine Clémancey 2019 Les Hervelets Vielles Vignes Premier Cru (Fixin)

Notes of ripe and tart apples, rhubarb, plum, cherry, peonies, lilac, rose, white tea and fresh earth make for a highly complex wine. Its elegant aromas and flavors shine through great fruit concentration. 92 Points— Anna-Christina Cabrales

$ Varies Wine Searcher

Domaine Pascal et Mireille Renaud 2021 Cuvée Vieilles Vignes (Pouilly-Fuissé)

Delicate aromas of pithy citrus are accompanied by wild white flowers, orange oil chamomile, soft tall grass, and wet stone. This medium-bodied wine offers good texture, yet remains light on the palate with its crisp acidity. An expression of finesse and purity, the palate mirrors the nose perfectly and finishes with light saline minerality. 93 Points — A.C.

$ Varies Wine Search

Best Australian

Thistledown 2021 She’s Electric Old Vine Grenache (McLaren Vale)

Hugely aromatic and unmistakably Aussie, this may rank high on the crowd appeal meter, but don’t mistake that for simplicity. There’s complexity and age-worthiness here, too. It opens with a billowy perfume of strawberry and raspberry Jolly Ranchers, rose petals and a medicinal herbal note. This flows to an elegant, mid-weight palate that’s ensconced in textural, fine tannins. It’s juicy fruited with a touch of savory spice. Drink now—2030. 95 Points — Christina Pickard

$ Varies Wine Searcher

Yalumba 2018 Samuel’s Collection-Bush Vine Grenache (Barossa)

The latest range in Yalumba’s vast array of wines, the Samuel’s Collection, includes this well-priced Grenache. It’s light bodied, gluggable and perfectly on trend. Bright and bouncy, it bursts with ripe red berries followed by dried leaf, green peppercorn and floral characters. The palate is equally dainty, with crunchy acidity, juicy fruit and soft herbal tannins—a straightforward but highly likable drop for drinking young. 90 Points — C.P.

$ Varies Wine Searcher

Best Spanish

Avancia 2022 Old Vines Godello Godello (Valdeorras)

Light yellow in the glass, with flecks of gold, this wine proffers a bouquet of apricot, mint tea and orange zest. It is full in the mouth, with flavors of Valencia orange, lemon, Bartlett pear, sage leaf and vanilla. The finish offers a splash of pineapple and a touch of flint. Editors Choice. 93 Points — Mike DeSimone

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Vinos del Atlantico 2021 Zestos Malvar Old Vines Malvar (Vinos de Madrid)

This light straw-colored wine made from a grape native to the region near Madrid has aromas of apricot, orange blossom and flint. It has a viscous texture and beautiful flavors of mango, pineapple and passion fruit with an almost chalky minerality and notes of saline and Turkish delight in the finish. Best Buy. 93 Points — M.D.

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Bodegas Nekeas 2020 El Chaparral de Vega Sindoa Old Vines Garnacha Garnacha (Navarra)

Dark ruby in the glass, this wine offers aromas of raspberry, cassis and black-olive tapenade. Black and red fruit takes hold of the palate at first sip, joined shortly by dark chocolate, dried Mediterranean herb and eucalyptus flavors. As fruit flavors peel away, velvety tannins coat the palate and linger there. Best Buy. 90 Points — M.D.

$19 Wine.com

Volver 2021 Tarima Hill Old Vines Monastrell (Alicante)

This deep ruby-colored wine has a nose of Chambord, ripe summer cherry and lavender. Cherry vanilla, blueberry, anise and violet flavors are wrapped in a sheath of silky tannins. 91 Points — Mike DeSimone

$ Varies Total Wine & More

Best Portuguese

Quinta das Carvalhas 2019 Vinhas Velhas Red (Douro)

From century-old vines, the wine is impressively rich and dense. It has layers of black fruits, acidity and some solid, young tannins. This is a powerful wine, with tannins and a firm structure. The wine needs to age—ready to drink from 2025. 94 Points — Roger Voss

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Quinta Vale D. Maria 2020 Vinha da Francisca Red (Douro)

Named after Francisca van Zeller, daughter of Cristiano van Zeller whose family home is Vale D. Maria, the wine comes from a single plot of old vines. It is a powerful wine with great density and simultaneously serious richness. The wine deserves further aging. Wait to drink until 2026. Cellar Selection. 94 Points — R.V.

$ Varies Central Wine Merchants

Best South African

Raats Family 2022 Old Vines Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch)

Freshness and balance describe the character of this Chenin Blanc. The nose shows pear and citrus fruit. There is an elegant and subtle mix of lemon zest, pear, white peach and linden tea on the midpalate. Good acidity lengthens the flavors for a lasting tasty finish. 91 Points — J.V.

$29 Wine Searcher

The post What, Precisely, Does ‘Old Vine’ Mean in Wine? appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Between 2019 and 2022, the number of American drinkers enjoying sparkling wine has increased by 30%, according to an International Wine and Spirits Research report, and that growth is forecast to continue. In the same report, projections suggest that the market volume for sparkling wine will grow by more than 15% between 2021 and 2026. The big takeaway? Expect to see more folks in the U.S. drinking more bubbly, more often.

Most sparkling lovers these days have a particular fondness for dry styles—a contrast to the sweet Champagnes popular in the 19th century. But often, labels don’t make it easy to decipher what’s dry and what’s not. Words like “brut” and “extra brut” may leave some consumers scratching their heads. Here’s everything you need to know.

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What Is Brut Champagne?

To make Champagne, which is a sparkling wine specifically made in Champagne, France, winemakers use a technique called the traditional method. Through this technique, the wine undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle and spends time in contact with the lees—dead yeast cells—which creates a sparkling wine with a rounded body and creamy, nutty and toasty notes. During the final stage of Champagne production, winemakers will add a sweet element (usually sugar or a tincture of wine and sugar) known as dosage to balance out the acidity. The wine is considered “brut” if the finished Champagne has anywhere between zero and 12 grams per liter of residual sugar.

“‘Brut’ technically defines a certain dosage,” says Mathieu Roland-Billecart, CEO and 7th generation family member of Champagne Billecart-Salmon. But there’s more to it than that. “More widely, it is often used to describe a traditional blend cuvée that forms the core and entry point to a range of wines a Champagne house produces.”

Brut, which includes reds, whites and rosé, is the most popular category of dry sparkling wine. However, it’s not the driest. Beyond brut, Champagne with zero to six grams per liter of residual sugar can be labeled extra brut, and if a sparkling wine has less than three grams per liter of residual sugar, it is labeled brut nature or zero dosage. These labeling requirements are also used beyond Champagne: Wineries in other areas of France, the U.S., Italy, Spain and other global wine regions follow the same labeling guidelines for brut.

Determining the right dosage to create a balanced brut wine is an artform. For example, a wine with lower acidity only needs a small dosage. Also, the longer a wine ages on the lees, the creamier it becomes, which can also impact dosage decisions, explains Tami Lotz, winemaker at Mumm Napa.

“The majority of the wines we produce are brut-style wines, but the level of dosage added to find that balance varies from wine to wine,” she says. “It’s all about the balance, and these decisions are made with our palates, not in the lab.”

For Shane Moore, winemaker at Gran Moraine in Oregon, making a brut sparkling wine “starts with your viticulture.” To retain higher acidity, grapes destined for brut sparkling wines are typically picked earlier than the fruit used for still wines. All of these decisions influence “what you’re doing in the winery after that,” says Moore.

The most crucial factor to remember about brut sparkling is that it will “not have any perceived sweetness to it,” adds Elyse Leavenworth, a sommelier with Sommsation.

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What Is the Difference Between Brut and Extra Dry?

Sometimes, you may come across a bottle that doesn’t say “brut” at all, but rather “extra dry.” Don’t be fooled by the play on words.

“You would think that ‘extra dry’ means ‘extra brut,’” says Leavenworth. But “the technical definition of ‘extra dry’ is actually anywhere from 12 to 17 grams per liter of residual sugar. So it’s actually less dry than brut, even though it’s called ‘extra dry.’”

Although still considered a dry style of sparkling wine, extra dry wines can be perceived as sweet on the palate. They tend to exude richer characteristics and more body than brut sparkling wines.

What Makes a Good Brut Champagne?

Although “brut” can indicate the dryness of sparkling wine, the word alone can’t convey its quality. Finding the best one for your palate can take some experimenting.

There are plenty of excellent examples of quality brut Champagne from notable legacy labels like Billecart-Salmon, G.H. Mumm, Krug Champagne and various others, but those bottles can be costly. Leavenworth recommends seeking out brut sparklers from other regions of France like Alsace and the U.S. or trying brut styles of Italian Prosecco or Spanish Cava, which often have more approachable price points.

“One of my favorites is from Flaneur, which is based in Carlton, Oregon. Their vineyards are in the Shahala Mountain and Ribbon Ridge subregions, and they practice the traditional Champagne method,” says Leavenworth. “It’s good winter or cooler-weather sparkling.”

Another quality to look for in a brut sparkler? It’s ability to pair with food. There you likely won’t have much trouble: Brut sparkling wines are incredibly versatile and can display a range of flavors and characteristics.

“They are an excellent pairing partner for a wide variety of foods due to their high acidity, dry finish and refreshing bubbles that can cut through and complement the richness in a meal,” says Lotz.

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Is Brut Champagne Good for Mimosas?

The high price of good brut Champagne may not make it an ideal partner for mixing with orange juice, but Leavenworth notes that most general brut sparkling wines can be used for mimosas or bellinis, while extra dry styles work better for spritzes.

“Spritzes typically include an aperitif or a slightly bitter liqueur like Aperol, so to soften the bitterness of the aperitivo, if you’re not adding simple sugar to the spritz, an extra dry sparkling is better because that little extra bit of sweetness helps create balance,” explains Leavenworth. “With mimosas and bellinis, you’re adding fruit, which has a lot of sugar. So for those, I like to cut that ripe fruit sweetness with a more dry style wine like a brut or brut nature.”

The versatility of brut Champagne and sparkling wine allows it to work with various cocktails if that’s what the mood calls for. But, it’s hardly shocking that bubbles shine best on their own.

“You see brut sparkling wine everywhere for a reason,” says Leavenworth. “Having a better understanding of it will only enhance enjoyment.”

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Laurent-Perrier NV Grand Siècle Brut Itération No.26

Tautly textured, the Champagne is delicious with a poise between white and citrus fruits along with touches of maturity coming through. Drink this magnificent wine now for its great balance and intensity. Cellar Selection. 97 Points — Roger Voss

$ Varies Wine.com

Krug NV Grande Cuvée 171ème Edition Brut

Deliciously balanced, this Champagne is impressive. The iconic wine is in its 171st blend, meaning it combines vintages for the best result for each bottling, not a specific vintage. The 171st essence is dry, while also having fine textured fruit. This is a magnificent wine and worth aging for another year. Cellar Selection. 97 Points — R.V.

$ Varies Plucky Wines

Charles Heidsieck 2013 Brut Millésimé

Aged for eight years on the lees before disgorgement, the Champagne is deliciously toasty with acidity and fine dryness. Balanced and now finely mature, this great wine is ready to drink. 96 Points— R.V.

$ Varies Winehouse.com

Billecart-Salmon 2005 Le Clos Saint Hilaire Blanc de Noir Brut

The wine’s maturity is palpable with toast and wonderfully balanced fruit and acidity. It is so impressive, intense and totally memorable. Drink this Champagne now. 96 Points — R.V.

$ Varies Wine.com

Deutz 2017 Blanc de Blancs Brut

This is beautifully mature, showing the toast and spice balanced with tense white fruits and tangy minerality. This fine Champagne is taut and lightly structured, ready to drink. Cellar Selection. 95 Points — R.V.

$ Varies Wine-Searcher

Louis Roederer 2015 Vintage Brut

This is a delicious Champagne with its ripe white fruits and softened texture. It is totally mature, the wine balanced and ready. Drink this fine wine now. 94 Points — R.V.

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Ruinart Blanc Singulier Brut Edition 18

Based mainly on Champagnes from 2018, this fine, mature blend is beautifully textured, nervy and mineral in its character. It is dense in its texture and concentrated in its fruit and toastiness. 94 Points — R.V.

$ Varies Delancey Wine

Lanson NV Le Rosé Brut

Dry, while still full of fine fruit, this is a young Champagne. Its freshness is balanced by the tangy, mineral texture that gives shape. This delicious rosé is ready to drink. 93 Points— R.V.

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Alexandre Bonnet 2018 La Géande 7 Cépages Brut Nature

A blending of the seven permitted grape varieties in Champagne, this fine wine is ripe with perfumed fruits and a crisp, low-dosage dryness. More than a curiosity, this is a delicious wine that is ready to drink. 92 Points — R.V.

$ Varies Wine-Searcher

Château de Bligny NV Grande Réserve Brut

A blend of half and half Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this Champagne is ripe and mature. It is a finely balanced wine, rich while keeping a fresh aftertaste. Drink now. 91 Points — R.V.

$ Varies Applejack Wine & Spirits

Albert Lebrun NV Grand Cru Brut

This pure Chardonnay Champagne has just the right textured character, although maybe spoiled by the high dosage. White fruits give richness and concentration to the wine. Drink now.  90 Points — R.V.

$ 50 Wine-Searcher

The post What Is Brut Champagne, Anyway? appeared first on Wine Enthusiast.

Seems simple, right? Not so fast.

Like many phrases that appear on wine labels, there’s a lot more nuance to the designation than meets the eye. First off, there can be a subtle difference between “blanc de blancs” (sparkling wines made with more than one varietal of white grape) and “blanc de blanc” (which is made from a single varietal of white grape). In Champagne, blanc de blanc is more common. These wines are made in the traditional method and are typically composed of Chardonnay grapes, which is how most well-informed consumers expect them to be made. But that’s not always the case. Moreover, the term now appears on bottles around the globe that may—or may not—differ vastly from blanc de blanc that hail from Champagne.

Depending on where they’re made and by whom, these wines can technically be produced via different techniques from different grapes. Here are all the details.

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Not All Chardonnays Are Blanc de Blancs, but Most Blanc de Blancs Are Chardonnays

“When we say ‘blanc de blancs,’ we will always associate it with Chardonnay, but technically there are four other grapes that are allowed,” says Nina Granados, sommelier at L.A.’s Juliet, which boasts an extensive all-French wine list. They are Arbane, Petit Meslier, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris—which, not coincidentally, are also the only grapes that can be grown in Champagne outside of the region’s three primary grapes: red Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and white Chardonnay.

That said, if your Champagne is a blanc de blancs, it’s probably composed primarily of Chardonnay. And, if your blanc de blanc comes from Champagne’s top-producing blanc de blanc region—Côtes de Blancs—that’s even more likely. (Again, paying attention to whether or not there’s a “s” attached to the second blanc is a good clue.) These wines tend to be crisp and elegant with measured minerality. According to the Union des Maisons de Champagne, nearly 98% of all grapevines in the appellation are Chardonnay.

So, what is the difference between wines labeled “Chardonnay” and those marked “blanc de blanc”? Bubbles. Blanc de blanc and blanc de blancs, as previously mentioned, are sparkling wines, while bottles referred to as Chardonnay are still wines made from the Chardonnay grape.

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Blanc de Blancs Around the World

Any place that grows quality Chardonnay is likely to produce some blanc de blanc and blanc de blancs—though not all are made in the méthode Champenoise. Take Oregon, for example, which is making highly-rated versions right now.

“Chardonnay is one of the grape varietals that the Willamette Valley does best, and it is only natural with our cool climate that we make a bit of it into delicious bubbles,” says Andrew Davis of The Radiant Sparkling Wine Company in McMinnville. “I would guess that half or more of the producers of sparkling wine in the area are making blanc de blanc in the traditional method. My only gripe is that the volumes aren’t greater so that we can share them with more enthusiastic consumers.”

Other regions are also using white-skinned grapes to make sparkling wine, such as Spain’s Cava, which makes it in the traditional method from the Macabeo, Xarel·lo and Parellada grapes. These wines sometimes bear “blanc de blancs” on their labels.

There’s also Italy’s Prosecco, which is made with the Glera grape. Blanc de blanc is similar to Prosecco in that both are sparkling wines made exclusively from white grapes. In that sense, it’s technically correct to call it a blanc de blanc—although one usually does not find such terminology on the label. Further differentiating Prosecco from most blanc de blanc, it’s produced in the charmat, or tank method, wherein the wine goes through secondary fermentation in stainless-steel tanks and is then bottled. (In the traditional method, juice undergoes a secondary fermentation in the bottle.) Wines produced in the tank method tend to have larger bubbles than those that are produced in the traditional method.

Wine labeled blanc de blacn and blanc de blancs—no matter where they come from—are generally made with the traditional method. However, there seem to be no hard and fast labeling rules on the style outside of France, which requires only that these wines are made of solely white grapes.

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Is Blanc de Blanc More Expensive Than Other Sparkling Wine?

Because blanc de blanc is made with a single varietal, it can be more expensive than many other sparkling wines. This however, is a generalization with many exceptions—for example, most of the great collectible Champagnes contain red grapes and therefore do not qualify as blanc de blanc.

“It doesn’t have to be exponentially more expensive, but I think it typically is because when you have a single-variety wine anywhere—and certainly in Champagne—you can’t blend out issues with it,” says Christy Canterbury, Master of Wine. This means that if there’s an odd vintage—one with a shortened ripening season, for example, or one with great red grape yields but terrible Chardonnay yields—winemakers can be put on the spot.

“It can be really nice to have something to blend… to give it a little more softness, a little more structure or a little more whatever you need. When you don’t have that, it’s harder to make a more complete wine,” says Canterbury. Chardonnay can struggle when subjected to difficult weather conditions, he continues. “Having some Meunier or Pinot Noir or some other grape varieties to soften out the generally more rigid structural facets in Chardonnay can be very helpful in [non-blanc de blanc] Champagne.”

Another challenging factor is the availability of grapes. In total, nearly 69% of the grapes under vine in Champagne are red Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir, while just under 31% of Champagne is planted with Chardonnay grapes.

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When to Drink Blanc de Blancs, and Which One to Choose

Given their brightness, freshness and typically higher acidity compared to other sparklers (thanks to the Chardonnay), blanc de blanc and blanc de blancs from Champagne pair well with seafood, caviar and oysters. Canterbury likes to pair these wines, which can be described as having sharp edges, with creamier foods, say a French mushroom soup. She especially likes to pair it with a post-meal cheese course.

Of course, the right pairings will depend on the specific flavor qualities of an individual wine. California versions, for example, tend to be softer and creamier than their Champagne counterparts—a factor that should be taken into account when designing a pairing.

When helping someone choose the right wine, Granados thinks about how it is going to be consumed and also asks about price point and vintage. “The older the vintage, the more fuller bodied the blanc de blancs will be,” explains Granados. Because they tend to be even fresher, non-vintage blanc de blancs are great for celebrations. “If they say, ‘We just want to toast and we love blanc de blancs,’ I tend to go for non-vintage.”

Codorníu NV Anna de Codorniu Blanc de Blancs Brut Reserva Sparkling (Cava)

Light straw in color and with a stream of tiny bubbles, this sparkler has aromas of Seckel pear, Granny Smith apple and vanilla. It is bright at first sip, with vivid acidity and peach, quince, white chocolate and apricot-preserve flavors that endure into a zesty finish. Best Buy. 88 Points  — Mike DeSimone

$15 Wine.com

Ruinart NV Blanc de Blancs Brut Chardonnay (Champagne)

Ruinart is a specialist in Blanc de Blancs Champagne. This wine is finely balanced between maturity and taut fresh, mineral-driven fruit. From the Côte des Blancs, the wine is poised and ready to drink. Cellar Selection. 94 Points  — Roger Voss

$109 Wine.com

Billecart-Salmon 2009 Louis Salmon Brut Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay (Champagne)

Chardonnay from Grand Cru vineyards in the Côte des Blancs presents its mineral texture and impressively fresh white fruits. Its taut character gives the Champagne a nervy character that helps keep its surprising youthfulness. Drink now. 95 Points  — R.V.

$229 Wine.com

Legras & Haas NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut Chardonnay (Champagne)

The wine is fresh and mineral driven. Its ripe fruits are intense, textured and with a fine core of dryness and acidity. The Champagne has a softer take at the end. Drink now. 90 Points  — R.V.

$63 Wine.com

Ayala 2016 Collection No 16 Blanc de Blancs Brut Chardonnay (Champagne)

Pure mature Chardonnay gives this Champagne richness and a full texture. It is impressive, its crisp character contrasting well with hints of toast and ripe white fruits. Drink now. Cellar Selection. 95 Points  — R.V.

$ Varies Wine-Searcher

Domaine Chavy-Chouet NV Blanc de Blancs Brut (Crémant de Bourgogne)

Intense aromas of bruised apples and pears are in tandem with salted caramel, violets and white pepper—all making for an inviting nose. The subtle palate delivers orange pith and gardenia that grow with length on the palate. This wine is delicious, refreshing and complex. 92 Points  — Anna-Christina Cabrales

$ Varies Wine-Searcher

Olivet Lane 2019 Pellegrini Estate Bottled II. La Bionda Blanc de Blancs Sparkling (Russian River Valley)

A subtle richness is the key to this smooth and supple sparkler. It pleases the palate with light notes of toast, butter cookies and vanilla along with a green-apple zestiness that keeps it well balanced. 92 Points  — Jim Gordon

$70 Pelligrini-Olivet Lane

Piper Sonoma NV Blanc de Blancs Sparkling (Sonoma County)

Mainly Chardonnay, with a drop of Pinot Noir, this dry bubbly has intricate flavors of lemons, limes, tangerines and honey, with a rich yeastiness. It’s a little scoury in texture, but pretty good for the price. 88 Points

$21 Wine.com

Iron Horse 2019 Ocean Reserve Blanc de Blancs Sparkling

This wine offers vanilla, coconut and toasted brioche tones that lift out of the glass before a plush, fine-beaded mousse soothes the palate. Pastry shop flavors have a sense of sweetness to round off the wine’s texture, leaving it smooth and soft. 92 Points  — J.G.

$59 Wine.com

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